[texandrews]

This is not just a Pentax problem.



D810 shutter shock workaround: Nikon FX SLR (DF, D1-D5, D600-D850) Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

Sony A7R was infamous for this---too many links to put in this response. That said, with shutter shock awareness is your friend, and there are workarounds for every model.

[pschlute]

Anyways, it's certainly annoying that a high grade camera like this one suffers from this kind of problem.

Shutter shock is a well documented problem that can affect all cameras of any brand and is nothing new. You have the tools to deal with it.... Electronic shutter

[alvaro_garcia]

Shutter shock is a well documented problem that can affect all cameras of any brand and is nothing new. You have the tools to deal with it.... Electronic shutter

Does the electronic shutter provide any flaws in comparison to mechanical ones? I guess so, otherwise why do manufacturers continue to use mechanical shutters?

[pschlute]

Does the electronic shutter provide any flaws in comparison to mechanical ones? I guess so, otherwise why do manufacturers continue to use mechanical shutters?

Electronic shutter has a problem with moving subjects. There are options in the K1 menu to allow for this, but cannot be eliminated entirely.

[Mikesul]

Older Electronic shutters sometimes show rolling shutter because they cannot empty the sensor fast enough. Some also have banding in certain light. However, the A9 has pretty much overcome the rolling shutter issue and only has shown banding in very limited circumstances. Older cameras could not use flash with electronic shutter but newer ones have overcome that as well. The A9 is a very expensive camera so it may be a while before less expensive cameras have fully reliable electronic shutter.

[Andrea K]

My K-1 has the very annoying shutter shock, so since learning from this forum that it wasn't user error, I have avoided a range of shutter speeds. For me, having that improved/fixed is enough for me to get the upgrade. I was also wondering about hand held pixel shift, 'cos sometimes I simply can't/don't want to set up a tripod.


Thanks Andrea for the user perspective - I am a hobbyist and pixel peeping/tech stuff isn't my thing, but your summary has answered many of my questions!

My thoughts about the shutter shock with the K-1 is that it's related to a not flawless design of the hardware that, with different extent, causes too vibrations. This put me to buy a new K-1 II instead to upgrade my K-1, I betted and for now I won.

About the Dynamic Pixel Shift I'm very happy due to the results with high iso pictures. I don't have the knowledge to measure the EV gain versus the same shot with the same ISO but looking it seems to me at least 2 stops.

[Sandy Hancock]

For what it's worth, I am sufficiently impressed with my first converted K-1 that I am about to convert the other.

[texandrews]

For what it's worth, I am sufficiently impressed with my first converted K-1 that I am about to convert the other.

I am glad to hear this, Sandy. I follow your posts, so what you say is meaningful to me. Therefore I'd like you to expand on your statement a bit, please. I am awaiting my upgrade now...

[Sandy Hancock]

I am glad to hear this, Sandy. I follow your posts, so what you say is meaningful to me. Therefore I'd like you to expand on your statement a bit, please. I am awaiting my upgrade now...

The reported loss of fine detail seems to be non-issue.
The lower noise is obvious when processing the files - I'd guess about two stops worth across the board.
I'm yet to try dynamic pixel shift, and I haven't tried to convince myself that the AF is better, but I can find no negatives.

[derekkite]

I just got mine back from the upgrade and took advantage of the first clear day.

I'm impressed. The autofocus is much better; I would get maybe one or two sharp in focus shots following a bird. Typically osprey or eagles, gulls. I did about 5 series and I had one shot after another that was sharp and in focus. Two instances the bird were coming towards me and I got good shots. Picking them out against the mountain background was better, not perfect. I got a couple shots that were good in that situation, where the K1 was pretty bad. This made every penny of the upgrade worth it for me. This with the 150-450. I'm very pleased.

If I have the full spread of focus points and auto select, It seems to follow but it doesn't show which ones like when 9 points are selected. I set it back to 9, and will test further to see if it works as it should. Not sure.

The IQ is excellent. The K1 was excellent at higher iso, but I really can't say. I have to rework my software defaults. Darktable doesn't have the noise reduction optimizations yet for this model. My first impressions are that I have to dial back quite a bit.

I was shooting handheld and there isn't any softness except when I missed focus in busy scenes. The shake reduction seems good, and I was at lower shutter speed than what was optimal for the K1.

It is the same body but it is quite different. The AF is much better for the shooting that I do. The other things are improved.

These are some shots I would not have gotten with the K1. In each instance I had the choice of half a dozen in focus shots, and selected from them.

[TedH42]

I just got mine back from the upgrade and took advantage of the first clear day.

I'm impressed. The autofocus is much better; I would get maybe one or two sharp in focus shots following a bird. Typically osprey or eagles, gulls. I did about 5 series and I had one shot after another that was sharp and in focus. Two instances the bird were coming towards me and I got good shots. Picking them out against the mountain background was better, not perfect. I got a couple shots that were good in that situation, where the K1 was pretty bad. This made every penny of the upgrade worth it for me. This with the 150-450. I'm very pleased.

If I have the full spread of focus points and auto select, It seems to follow but it doesn't show which ones like when 9 points are selected. I set it back to 9, and will test further to see if it works as it should. Not sure.

The IQ is excellent. The K1 was excellent at higher iso, but I really can't say. I have to rework my software defaults. Darktable doesn't have the noise reduction optimizations yet for this model. My first impressions are that I have to dial back quite a bit.

I was shooting handheld and there isn't any softness except when I missed focus in busy scenes. The shake reduction seems good, and I was at lower shutter speed than what was optimal for the K1.

It is the same body but it is quite different. The AF is much better for the shooting that I do. The other things are improved.

These are some shots I would not have gotten with the K1. In each instance I had the choice of half a dozen in focus shots, and selected from them.

Thanks for adding to the real evidence piling up that there are several performance improvements to the upgraded K-1mk1 -> K-1mk2. I'm looking forward to the upgrade of my K-1, currently in at Precision Camera.

Very good images from your work showing the improved tracking performance. Thanks for sharing.

[derekkite]

A few other impressions. In busy low light scenes when I press the af button (using back button focus) there is a slight delay, then focus. The K1 was quicker but not as accurate.

Continuous af has been substantially reworked. Results are better, and it seems more consistent. The K1 and k3 on continuous af would seem to get behind in processing and spun out. Letting go the af button would restart the process. The mark II is different. It doesn't spin off which is better, but if either I or the body chooses wrong, a reset runs into that slight lag. A gull was coming from my 2 o'clock and passed in front of me. I pressed the af, it didn't lock in, reset, same, then reset and hold the button. It found focus and exposed in focus. I think it was user error, just let the thing figure it out. In any case, different from the K1. In most cases if it was sharp in the viewfinder it is sharp in the exposure, which wasn't the case with the K1.

I haven't tried the new features yet, and am curious whether the shake reduction is improved at lower shutter speed in combination with the 150-450. It tends towards shutter shock, so we shall see.

[Caat]

Shutter shock is a well documented problem that can affect all cameras of any brand and is nothing new. You have the tools to deal with it.... Electronic shutter

It's one that the K-7 suffered from as well....

[Tan68]

I have been told that this is something that pops up on really long exposures and pushing to the extremes and then looking in the shadows. But I too have not seen this is normal shooting.

This is an iso 100 shot with a 15 second exposure, first the regular shot then one pushed five stops (which I would never do in normal post processing).





It isn't that people are telling untruths, it is that they are doing strange things to their images and pushing them to the extreme and then odd things are happening. For most users who shoot iso 100 and push a stop or two, nothing is going to happen. I don't do much astro photography and this seems to be where this is most visible from what folks have posted. So maybe if you do a lot of astro, you are better off going with the MK I original. Otherwise for about everything else, the Mark II is better from my standpoint.

I agree with the rest of your points, although I haven't found dynamic pixel shift very helpful. I shoot RAW and the only way I can use it is to develop it in camera to a TIFF file and then to post process that. Even Pentax's DCU doesn't do anything with the dynamic pixel shift RAW images except use the first image. If you shoot jpegs then it is probably more helpful.

I haven't finished reading this thread
For all I know, the thread is dead...

15 seconds is a long exposure but it is not a very long exposure. A couple minutes is a long(er) exposure and I might do this weird thing to blur out people in the foreground :^) I recently used a 10 stop ND just past twilight. The longer shutter blurred out movement of enough people in the plaza that the few people still enough to show make the scene look quiet but not deserted. Sadly, I got to my spot after all light and texture in the cloudy sky was gone (too dark) so the picture really isn't that good. [it exposed properly but black sky isn't interesting for me]

I don't think the concern with color cast when an image is lifted about 5 stops has much to do with a reasonably well exposed image that is lifted 5 stops until it is over-exposed... To do that is strange :^) I think the "concern" is by people (like me) who lift portions of an image rather than use a grad-ND filter. ...or, at least, this is one scenario where people might lift shadows a gross amount. I haven't used a grad-ND since I got the K-5 and I like that freedom. That said, with careful exposure, I don't think I have ever lifted 5 stops... that's a lot for one image.

I'll agree that neither of the scenarios I have described above are normal shooting.

[Sandy Hancock]

I have now put my second K-1 (my precious Silver Limited Edition) in for the upgrade.

Never seen the colour cast issue in any of my shots.