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01-05-2020, 09:02 AM - 1 Like   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by hypermodern Quote
Good results, don’t suppose anyone ever made one of these for 6x6 negatives?
Not exactly the same but will handle up to 6 × 9:

PENTAX Film Duplicator (with Mount Holder 24x36) - RICOH IMAGING EUROPE S.A.S

01-05-2020, 09:32 AM - 1 Like   #17
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To get color negatives right you can invert in- to output values within the levels tool. But you also have to get rid of the orange mask of color negative film. So you have to go down under 3000K in the white balance tool - if I remember correctly. At least in Capture One this worked years ago - if I remember correctly.
01-05-2020, 09:42 AM   #18
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The orange mask varies from emulsion to emulsion and even slightly from negative batch to batch. Most of the scanning software will have film profiles to help with the color balancing.
01-05-2020, 10:21 AM   #19
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Darktable has a module to invert and set the orange mask correction.

I have a question about the Nikon adapter, does it work with any macro lens, and in particular, with the dfa 100mm with a step up ring?

01-05-2020, 10:24 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
The orange mask varies from emulsion to emulsion and even slightly from negative batch to batch. Most of the scanning software will have film profiles to help with the color balancing.
.
Overall, the quick and easy part is photographing the 35mm slide or negative with your Pentax digital camera and Nikon rig. The time consuming part is all of the work that must be done in post to make the image looks its' best.

I checked on-line prices, and some scanning services will digitize 35mm slides/negatives for $.29 - $.39 per unit! I suspect that for that price, the customer will not be getting any post processing.

For those who are already doing this professionally, I'd be interested in hearing how much you charge, and how you are able to differentiate your services from those who charge $.29 - $.39 per unit.
.
01-05-2020, 11:29 AM   #21
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+1 for Negative Lab Pro. I've been demo'ing it for the last week or 2 as an LR plugin ..... very impressed with the quality and speed of conversion results vs. manual PP on 35mm negatives and slides.
01-05-2020, 11:34 AM   #22
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I used to do the invert/white balance/etc shuffle in Lightroom and I find that I get better results, faster, with Negative Lab Pro. If this is something a person does just a few times it won't be worth the cost of admission. When I was copying 24 exposures a week, or more, I felt it was an easy rationalization to make and buy the tool.

01-05-2020, 12:41 PM   #23
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Was iso 1600 to be closer in DR of the slide film? And did you try to recover more DR w/ lower iso?
01-05-2020, 02:51 PM   #24
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Looks like your setup works well. I've used a slide projector as a light source during my slide duplication days, but that option probably isn't too popular these days.
01-05-2020, 03:17 PM - 1 Like   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by dms Quote
Was iso 1600 to be closer in DR of the slide film? And did you try to recover more DR w/ lower iso?
I think asking the K-1 for an equivalent sensitivity of ISO 1600 would, if anything, compress available dynamic range. A brighter light source might be worth considering.
01-05-2020, 03:50 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by ecostigny Quote
Looks like your setup works well. I've used a slide projector as a light source during my slide duplication days, but that option probably isn't too popular these days.
They should be cheap, if you can find one. Many of us who were keen reversal shooters probably still have one, gathering dust (I do). I briefly thought about turning my old Rollei into a duplicator, after an article here, but common sense (and the domestic project list from SWMBO) prevailed. I already have my father’s old M42 bellows/duplicator setup and a SMC 100/4 macro-Takumar.
01-05-2020, 03:52 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by pres589 Quote
I think asking the K-1 for an equivalent sensitivity of ISO 1600 would, if anything, compress available dynamic range. A brighter light source might be worth considering.
If the setup is firmly mounted, a lower shutter speed shouldn’t be an issue, surely?
01-05-2020, 04:08 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by RobA_Oz Quote
If the setup is firmly mounted, a lower shutter speed shouldn’t be an issue, surely?
I would agree with that. Using a tripod just to take possible movement of the slide out of the equation, and a remote shutter release, should allow for any amount of time needed to allow for lower ISO and perhaps a more optimal f-stop (to increase depth of field; optically I think the results look fine at a glance from here). That said, I think I'd want something fast enough to not encounter mirror slap and not require the use of mirror lock-up. With my K-5 based copying setup, I try to go no slower than 1/30th of a second, to avoid mirror slap. I use an LED light box that is bright enough that normally I don't use greater than ISO 200 and f4. Color negatives usually require these sorts of settings, in my experience, whereas black & white allows for ISO 100 and f5.6 or f8 (from memory).
01-05-2020, 04:26 PM - 1 Like   #29
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I've used macro lens, cardboard frame and tablet with white background about 15cm behind as a lightsource many times... works with any camera. Easy to build. Shoot in raw and convert negative by reversing the curve.

Now with 3D printers available it can be even easier to make proper fixture.
01-06-2020, 08:45 AM - 1 Like   #30
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I have an old thingy like that, not Nikon... It gives me 100% coverage in FF. I use Pixelshift and ISO100. The shutterspeed then depends on the brightness of the light I illuminate with. 2s timer. I shoot in RAW because I can, JPG works fine also but some high contrast slides can benefit from RAW.
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