[Smoke665]

I think I know the answer to this, but just to confirm. When I use any of the program modes the K1MII seems to bump the ISO way up rather then boost the flash power. If I put the camera on manual, set the aperture, shutter, and ISO, then it will boost the flash to compensate. I'm assuming this is because on program modes it's attempting to expose for the frame, and not the subject. Or am I missing something?

[stevebrot]

Or am I missing something?

Turn off auto-ISO? Note that the settings shown in the display may not be the actual settings for the exposure when auto-ISO is turned on. (M mode is always fixed ISO.)


Steve

[Smoke665]

Turn off auto-ISO? Note that the settings shown in the display may not be the actual settings for the exposure when auto-ISO is turned on. (M mode is always fixed ISO.)


Steve

I wondered about that, but I thought I read somewhere that it needs two variables?? Plus won't it still try to expose for the frame not the subject. IE: say I want to make the background dark/darker then the subject.

[pschlute]

I think I know the answer to this, but just to confirm. When I use any of the program modes the K1MII seems to bump the ISO way up rather then boost the flash power. If I put the camera on manual, set the aperture, shutter, and ISO, then it will boost the flash to compensate. I'm assuming this is because on program modes it's attempting to expose for the frame, and not the subject. Or am I missing something?

Yes use fixed ISO, and also come out of the program modes.

Manual is the best mode to use when using P-TTL flash either as fill light or as the main light source for your subject.

If your scene is lit by ambient light then establish the exposure for that first. Then turn on the flash and use the review image and the histogram to see if you are happy with the fill flash on the subject. Dial in compensation on the flash unit to increase/decrease the flash output.

[Marktax]

I seem to recall the flash implementation on PZ-1p working really well for fill flash, letting me darken ambient with filled subject very easily. I admit I haven't been able to achieve that effect so well since. I do know that PZ-1p did allow flash sync at 1/250, so maybe that had something to do with it.

[stevebrot]

I wondered about that, but I thought I read somewhere that it needs two variables?? Plus won't it still try to expose for the frame not the subject. IE: say I want to make the background dark/darker then the subject.

The camera will attempt to balance ambient and flash in any of the auto-exposure modes, but will not take the shutter speed way low (< 1/60s) unless slow sync is enabled on the camera. You can also set flash exposure compensation on the camera if you want more or less flash contribution. This also works in the camera M-mode giving a wider range of options for shutter speed and P-TTL flash automation.


Steve

[Smoke665]

If your scene is lit by ambient light then establish the exposure for that first.

That's what I did with the previous non P-TTL compatible speedlight. Usually setting the exposure by 1-2 stops under then using the speedlight to raise the exposure. However, I had hoped the this flash being compatible would eliminate this step.

You can also set flash exposure compensation on the camera if you want more or less flash contribution

Okay I assumed at first that setting the EC on the camera would also update the EC setting on the flash, but in actually use it appears that they are independent of each other.

[stevebrot]

Okay I assumed at first that setting the EC on the camera would also update the EC setting on the flash, but in actually use it appears that they are independent of each other.

Flash EC is indeed separate from ambient EC. This is on page 65 of the K-1 user manual, but the feature is not called out.


Steve

[C_Jones]

If you use Manual mode you are going to have full control over the settings. If you have the flash set to P-TTL while the camera is in Manual mode, then the flash is going to emit the flash power using the P-TTL mode, therefore compensating as best it can per the settings you are using on the camera. A simple way to reduce or increase the flash power being emitted while in P-TTL mode is to adjust the flash exposure (EV) up or down on the flash itself.

Manual mode (camera) is the most effective mode to use while using P-TTL on the flash in most cases, unless you are planning a special type of unique shoot requiring an auto mode for results.

[stevebrot]

the flash is going to emit the flash power using the P-TTL mode, therefore compensating as best it can per the settings you are using on the camera

Are you sure about this? I suppose it is easy enough to test. Give me a few minutes.

Manual mode (camera) is the most effective mode to use while using P-TTL on the flash in most cases, unless you are planning a special type of unique shoot requiring an auto mode for results.

Agreed...that is how I generally use P-TTL.


Steve

[C_Jones]

Are you sure about this? I suppose it is easy enough to test. Give me a few minutes.



Agreed...that is how I generally use P-TTL.


Steve

That is how I use my P-TTL. I do it to have control over all of my settings.

[pschlute]

That's what I did with the previous non P-TTL compatible speedlight. Usually setting the exposure by 1-2 stops under then using the speedlight to raise the exposure. However, I had hoped the this flash being compatible would eliminate this step

When you add a flash into the mix in the auto modes the camera can choose shutter speed/aperture/AUTO-ISO/and flash to give an overall exposure. The trouble is that the camera in any of the auto modes will have a good attempt at getting the exposure "correct" and generally will, for the whole scene. But it has no idea what your artistic intention is. You may want a dark background but the camera will say "oh no we need more exposure to light those bushes behind". So it will choose a slower shutter speed/wider aperture/higher ISO to achieve that, especially if those damned bushes are beyond the range of the flash.

Yes you can dial in compensation for the ambient-light part of the exposure, but you are simply handing control of the choices to the camera, which may or may not work to give you what you want from the scene.

Where you have ambient light plus fill flash, you have two separate exposures going on at the same time. ISO and aperture will affect both exposures. Shutter speed will affect ambient alone (ignore HSS for the moment). The flash exposure will affect any part of the scene that is within it's range.

The reason why I and others posting on this thread advise to use Manual exposure camera mode is that it gives you the greatest control. You can be sure that the chosen aperture is right for your subject, and that the ISO is the lowest that will work effectively. You then allow the camera and flash to use it's P-TTL magic to give you an exposure for your subject and can dial in compensation on the flash unit to fine tune it. I am guessing you know a lot of this already having used a similar technique with a non- P-TTL flash.

[Smoke665]

When you add a flash into the mix in the auto modes the camera can choose shutter speed/aperture/AUTO-ISO/and flash to give an overall exposure.

I know this but I think I failed to fully comprehend the priority the camera uses when making those changes. ISO seems to be weighted more heavily on choice for increasing exposure then aperture or shutter.

The flash exposure will affect any part of the scene that is within it's range

Another of my possible misconception on the flash, assuming it has more power then it really does. Being primarily accustomed to studio lights, I need to shift gears on capabilities.

I am guessing you know a lot of this already having used a similar technique with a non- P-TTL flash.

I did but thanks to some of my false expectations, I think I was hoping for something that apparently isn't possible.

[stevebrot]

I know this but I think I failed to fully comprehend the priority the camera uses when making those changes. ISO seems to be weighted more heavily on choice for increasing exposure then aperture or shutter.

I often comment that "auto-ISO is evil" and this is particularly true when using P-TTL flash. Turn it off unless there is a strong case to have it turned on.

Another of my possible misconception on the flash, assuming it has more power then it really does.

The AF360FGZ has a guide number of 36(meters), which is not too shabby, but not as strong as the AF540FGZ (guide number of 54). Shoot in manual mode for a bit to get a better idea of what it is capable of.

I did but thanks to some of my false expectations, I think I was hoping for something that apparently isn't possible.

??? I balance ambient against P-TTL frequently. In M-mode, this is done directly and in the exposure automation modes, using a mix of camera and flash EC. M-mode is strongly preferred, as noted above.


Steve