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04-18-2021, 11:54 AM - 1 Like   #61
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QuoteOriginally posted by OldChE Quote
whether or not I can use my AF360FGZ on-camera as the P-TTL master (it of course has this capability) and use a Godox TT350P as a P-TTL slave.
The answer is no.


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04-18-2021, 12:07 PM   #62
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QuoteOriginally posted by OldChE Quote
General question: what is the smallest flash (Pentax or otherwise) that CAN act as an on-camera P-TTL master?

Richard.
can possibly Pentax AF201FG do it?
04-18-2021, 12:14 PM   #63
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LightPix Q20ii is a really small flash that I have. Attaches to the hotshoe but can detach for off-camera flash with included remote. Power I think is comparable to what you'd find with a built-in flash, maybe a little more powerful.


? LightPix Labs
04-18-2021, 12:38 PM   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by cgchang Quote
LightPix Q20ii is a really small flash that I have. Attaches to the hotshoe but can detach for off-camera flash with included remote. Power I think is comparable to what you'd find with a built-in flash, maybe a little more powerful.


? LightPix Labs
No. It does NOT support Pentax's P-TTL protocol for wireless control of other P-TTL wireless slave capable flashes. This is yet another proprietary RF based wireless triggering system.

This is perhaps THE number one reason I will retain my K-3 with its pop-up flash and only have room when travelling for one bulky external flash for off-camera use.

04-18-2021, 12:44 PM   #65
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QuoteOriginally posted by i_trax Quote
can possibly Pentax AF201FG do it?
Nope...does not have the optical sensor required to be P-TTL master/controller/slave.


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04-18-2021, 12:44 PM   #66
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I missed the P-TTL requirement. I normally go manual when using flash so that's why it works for me.
04-18-2021, 07:07 PM - 2 Likes   #67
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QuoteOriginally posted by cgchang Quote
I missed the P-TTL requirement. I normally go manual when using flash so that's why it works for me.
No problem. I have a couple small flashes, but none will trigger an off-camera P-TTL flash with automated TTL exposure information.

I just wrote a note to Ricoh USA. I fully expect them to act on this gap in their product line - in say 5 or 6 years.

04-18-2021, 08:54 PM   #68
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I did own an AF201FG, work it with K-1

The result is not very nice

Then I got a AF360FGZII, its is much better.
04-19-2021, 05:39 AM - 1 Like   #69
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QuoteOriginally posted by tmoses Quote
I guess it depends on subject matter and users needs/skill
Come one. Using a tripod, with a static subject with a reflective front surface, of course a fixed LED can work.

Direct lighting however rarely is the way to go with a human subject. Not having the ability to bounce IS limiting. For use outside in daylight, a LED panel is useless.

In short, it's a useful tool, but a limited one, and certainly not the one to start with when diving into artificial light.
04-19-2021, 06:04 AM   #70
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QuoteOriginally posted by bdery Quote
Come one. Using a tripod, with a static subject with a reflective front surface, of course a fixed LED can work.

Direct lighting however rarely is the way to go with a human subject. Not having the ability to bounce IS limiting. For use outside in daylight, a LED panel is useless.

In short, it's a useful tool, but a limited one, and certainly not the one to start with when diving into artificial light.
I generally agree with you.

With that said, when I first set up my small studio for "people stuff" on the north side of the house it was all Godox constant lights ranging from one 200W to two 150W and a pair of 20's. For the smallish space they were quite adequate and let me get up to speed a whole lot faster learning studio lighting placement and effect. But I've always needed at least two, more often three. Even then I had to watch apertures. You're right, they don't bounce. But I still use 'em for static images where they work really nicely for me. I don't like too many surprise reflections, and patience in lighting is not a strong-point for me.

Since then I set up one small studio on the south side for my "people stuff" and that one is 3 Godox strobes and more often than not just a single one needed, or even just window light and a reflector if the sun is just right.
Bonus: Strobes can be less expensive than trying to outfit a room with high-power LED's.
Now out in the field I do carry a couple of small handheld LED's for lighting mushrooms, or insects, or small flowers in shade and other darker small subjects, and they've been pretty effective and adaptable.
04-19-2021, 06:09 AM   #71
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QuoteOriginally posted by bdery Quote
Come one. Using a tripod, with a static subject with a reflective front surface, of course a fixed LED can work.

Direct lighting however rarely is the way to go with a human subject. Not having the ability to bounce IS limiting. For use outside in daylight, a LED panel is useless.

In short, it's a useful tool, but a limited one, and certainly not the one to start with when diving into artificial light.
I have a small LED panel. It's nice for close photography modeling, as noted, for stationary objects. Increase the distance and in most cases unless a longer exposure or higher ISO is acceptable, I am going to switch to electronic flash. The exception is for video. Then the light source has to be continuous and there is no choice about higher ISO.

I also have a nice set of daylight fluorescent studio lights. A bit too big to cart around and useless outdoors.

I still need a small flash for my K-1 that duplicates the wireless P-TTL capabilities of the built-in pop-up Pentax flashes. With just my K-3 and 540 flash I have easily obtained contrast control in bright sunlight by putting my subject in the shade, had someone hold the 540 off-camera at the same angle as the background sunlight and used the pop-up flash as the wireless master with just a hint of fill. You would never know the subject wasn't also in the sunshine, except you don't have harsh lighting.
04-19-2021, 07:57 AM   #72
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temporary solution for off-camera P-TTL flash carrying only one bulky flash.in my go bag.. buy a hot shoe extension cable for P-TTL - probably a two pack to reach 6 feet.

I wonder how much work might be involved to remove a P-TTL pop-up flash and the circuitry from an otherwise dead camera and put it on a P-TTL hot shoe foot? I suspect it would have to be hardwired as just a wireless controller because the camera would lack firmware controls.
04-19-2021, 11:16 AM   #73
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I have used the AF201FG nicely on my K-1.
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