[jerryleejr]

I normally only use the green button for a quick reference for my settings. Last weekend I took my camera for a graduation and they wanted some pictures outside before the ceremony. Even when my settings were similar the images were considerably darker shutter speed was about the only difference. I try to use the lowest ISO possible not wanting to go above 1600 if possible..I have attached two images on with my setting and one with green mode. I was in the picture so I set it up and had someone just push the button. I realize the F stop on these 2 are different, but I have pics with ISO 100 F2.2 and turned out fantastic...

JJ

Attached Images

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View Picture EXIF

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Last edited by jerryleejr; 06-01-2022 at 06:33 PM.

[arnold]

The top picture seems to have exposed for the bright sky at right.

[hailua66]

My opinion on this is pic1 has a big area of sky, about 1/4 of the pic. And the Matrix has been used, maybe. Pic2 has only small part, maybe 1/12 and the rest of the pic is 'gray', green, brown. it caused the reading differently.

I would try Spot or Centre Weighed to see the difference.

I could be wrong.

[pschlute]

ISO 200 1/800s f 1.8 versus ISO 800 1/500s f 5.0 is actually the same exposure (more or less)

Something else is at play here ?

The point I am making here is that the first image according to the exif was exposed to a third of a stop more light than the second one.

The two images were taken within two minutes of each other in the same location. I doubt the light actually changed at all in that time, which is why the exposures according to the exif are so similar.

I would do some testing of the camera and the lens......my suspicion is that the lens did not in fact mechanically capture the picture at f1.8

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Last edited by pschlute; 06-02-2022 at 02:23 AM.

[biz-engineer]

ISO 200 1/800s f 1.8 versus ISO 800 1/500s f 5.0 is actually the same exposure (more or less)

The sensor received more photoNs on the first picture, but the picture looks underexposed, some digital magic happened

---------- Post added 02-06-22 at 08:47 ----------

I'd say, a better way to check that camera light meter hasn't derailed is to use a uniformly lit grey card and make sure to close the viewfinder eye piece to prevent view finder light leak fooling the exposure meter.

[gaweidert]

When you are metering almost all the image and you have large highlight area you get what happened in image #1. The camera is doing the best it, or any camera can. If you were to meter only the subjects then you would have had better success. Whenever shooting in the shade, try to keep as much sky out of the photo as possible.


Another caution, if you are outside on a sunny day and photographing a subject totally in the shade, be prepared for a blue tint to the shot. That is because if there is no yellow light from the sun and all the light comes from the blue sky.

The best way to handle a situation like photo #1 is to use a flash to help compensate for the extreme differences between the light and dark areas. Situations like this are about the only time I miss a camera having a pop up flash on my K1. Then my Godox TT350 comes to the rescue. You also need to set the camera so that the flash will trigger whenever you hit the shutter release then you can trust the camera metering system to give you a more balanced exposure.

[othar]

ISO 200 1/800s f 1.8 versus ISO 800 1/500s f 5.0 is actually the same exposure (more or less)

Something else is at play here ?

The point I am making here is that the first image according to the exif was exposed to a third of a stop more light than the second one.

The two images were taken within two minutes of each other in the same location. I doubt the light actually changed at all in that time, which is why the exposures according to the exif are so similar.

I would do some testing of the camera and the lens......my suspicion is that the lens did not in fact mechanically capture the picture at f1.8

I think it is more likely the lens didn't stop down to f5.0 in the second image.
Try pushing the aperture lever of the lens when it is detached and see how fast the aperture blades snap close again when released (if at all), maybe a spring is broken in the aperture mechanism or it got sticky somehow

[pschlute]

When you are metering almost all the image and you have large highlight area you get what happened in image #1. The camera is doing the best it, or any camera can. If you were to meter only the subjects then you would have had better success. Whenever shooting in the shade, try to keep as much sky out of the photo as possible.


Another caution, if you are outside on a sunny day and photographing a subject totally in the shade, be prepared for a blue tint to the shot. That is because if there is no yellow light from the sun and all the light comes from the blue sky.

The best way to handle a situation like photo #1 is to use a flash to help compensate for the extreme differences between the light and dark areas. Situations like this are about the only time I miss a camera having a pop up flash on my K1. Then my Godox TT350 comes to the rescue. You also need to set the camera so that the flash will trigger whenever you hit the shutter release then you can trust the camera metering system to give you a more balanced exposure.

I agree with everything you are saying here...... except how this applies to the OP's situation. Both images received the same overall exposure (in fact the darker image got more).

This is either a problem with the lens or camera or the difference between custom settings....note that the AUTO mode does not allow adjustments.

[Rondec]

I wonder if there isn't a sticky aperture lever where the lens isn't opening up the way it should for every shot.