Originally posted by surfar I zoomed in and they are not close.Colours in the Pentax where there shouldn't be any and no where near the same resolution.
After looking again in DPR studio comparison with pixel shift enabled, I realized there is a problem with Silkypix handling pixel shift files. So, I converted the K1 pixel shift image with Rawtherapee, and I converted the GFX100 image again because there was a miss-match of white balance. Uploaded both crops again.
GFX100_SPD_PRT_cr_SAI-Softness.jpg - Google Drive MK2_0149_RT_PRT_cr_SAI-Softness.jpg - Google Drive Originally posted by Rondec My understanding with focus stacking is that it too can have issues if there is a lot of movement in a scene
Correct. Movement can be used to intentionally convey motion in images, via long exposures.
One way to achieve high resolution is to stitch images, another way to get higher definition images is to use pixel shift.
Stitching:
Stitching is a proven technique to achieve high resolution, although it can be problematic for long exposure photography and/or wide angle.
For example, stitching 5 vertical exposures of 2 minutes each is problematic when the light is changing quickly. After 10 minutes the sunset is gone and the color temperature of the last exposure is completely different from the color temperature of the first shot.
One solution to deal with long exposure stitching is to use a zoon lens, capture one frame of the scene with long exposure e.g 2 minutes, then zoom in an capture a sequence of images for the stitch, then line up the master frame with the stitched images.
But the big issue with lining up a master frame with a stitched panorama is that it give headaches to the stitching software and it can distort the master frame to fit exactly the panorama. That's a problem pixel shift doesn't have.
Pixel shift:
So my idea is to combine a quick pixel shift exposure with long exposures, and stack them into a composite image.
Now , the problem is that pixel shift is also sensitive to change of light during exposure, but I work around that.
The work around is to use an ND filter and open up the lens diaphragm so that the pixel shift exposure time doesn't exceed a few seconds.
Then stop down the lens to f22 or more if possible, so that the exposure time gets much longer, and reach a 2 minutes total exposure time via a composite average or interval average.
Then overlay the pixel shift frame with long exposure frames and use a mask to combine smooth and sharp details areas in one image.
I tried to do a pixel shift without ND filter, then add the ND filter for the long exposures, but that's not working very well because the color cast of the filter create a color mismatch between the long exposure composite and the pixel shift image.
When the light is changing quickly, e.g at sunset/dawn/dusk,the even better workflow that I haven't tried yet if to sandwich the pixel shift exposure between two long exposures, so that the average light of the long exposures composite is similar to the light level of the pixel shift exposure.