[DaveR]

I have replaced the top covers TWICE on both of my K1's (a Mark i and a Mark ii). I do a lot of events etc. with flashes on top most of the time and the top covers develop cracks under the hot shoes as there is very little strength in the plastic. It is definitely a weak point as there is no metal in the vicinity, just 5 holes through the plastic of the topcover that eventually crack.

But, the last time I added a small aluminium reinforcing plate under the top cover and the whole hotshoe area is now much more solid. I didn’t check the before and after effects on the GPS but from my observations, the GPS unit is forward of the hotshoe(above the pentaprism) and perhaps slightly above it, hopefully if there is any effect it would be minimal.

Just replacing the top cover is a straightforward repair for a technician and not too complicated for someone with some skills with hand tools and a steady hand with a soldering iron.

The replacement top covers came with printed calibration tables, I assume these would be needed by Pentax technicians to recalibrate the GPS (it appears to be part of the top cover assembly) and compass. I intend on passing these on to my repairer the next time I send each body in for a service.

I performed these operations in August 2021 (5 months ago, so am relying on memory to a degree). The images aren't great, I took them purely for reference at the time.


Tools Needed:
JIS #00 screwdriver (similar to a #0 Phillips but a better fit)
A set of flat bladed jewellers’ screwdrivers
Tweezers
Soldering iron
Tray for small parts
+1.5or better reading glasses or similar
Good lighting
A clean floor (in case of dropping small screws
Hacksaw
Marker
Scriber(sewing needle)
1.6mmdrill bit
Cordless drill
Small files
Multimeter to check electrical continuity of the soldering to the hotshoe pins.
Time and Patience!


Parts Needed:
Top Cover Assembly (or reuse the original one).
1.5 X 17mm or wider flat aluminium
4(or more) M1.7 x 4 mm (or longer and shorten to fit) machine type screws – ie.threaded, not self tapping types (I got mine from a computer parts supplier).
Loctite222 “Screwlock” (you don’t want the hotshoe screws coming loose after all this work)
Superglue
Silicon sealant
Solder
Copper wire for hotshoe pin extensions


Part 1 Top Cover Removal

Refer to the following video from Digi Service for top cover removal and replacement:

You Tube

You Tube

As it doesn’t cover unsoldering and resoldering I’ve included images of wires and positions. From memory there are 2additional wires closer to the pentaprism (Black & Orange?) plus a Black wire with a lug that only needs the loosening of the screw at the top of the last image in this section. It seems allof these wires have to do with the audio inputs and outputs and the flash synch socket and none of the main camera operations.

The screws are all JIS standard (handy to have at least a #00 to tighten all manner of body and lens screws).


(Note also the second image (cut away view) on the post linked below showing the room directly under the hotshoe (about the only place there is some free space!):
Help! K1 hot shoe came off (warning: k1 gore) - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com)































Removing Hotshoe Etc.

New top cover:

















Remove the 3 screws that retain the GPS switch plate.








Gentlypry away the printed circuit board (PCB) that is stuck to the top cover just above where the viewfinder would be and peel off the adhesive (it’s no longer needed and gets in the way).




Little by little, alternating each hotshoe pin, soften the solder whilst gently prying under the hotshoe PCB. Do not apply too much heat as the hotshoe pin mounting block is easily melted.












Scrape away all of the white sealant from around the 4 hotshoe screws and remove the screws and the thin copper earth plate.









The hotshoe, hotshoe terminal and pin assembly will come free.












With a flash mounted on the camera and it wobbling around as you move around, this section flexes - as you can see there's not much material between the screw holes and the terminal block hole. Also, the ground plate is very thin and the heads of the hotshoe screws have very little surface area underneath them. The result over time is cracking from the screw holes and also in the rear internal corner.











Part 2 will deal with making and installing the reinforcing plate and refitting the top cover:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/190-pentax-k-1-k-1-ii/451285-pentax-k1-t...ml#post5684831

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Last edited by DaveR; 01-13-2023 at 11:27 PM.

[UncleVanya]

I get why you did this but I wonder if you had not already had the damage if this solution (or indeed many like it) with a ttl cord wouldn’t have been more reasonable:

Stroboframe Quick Flip 350 Bracket:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/52728-REG/Stroboframe_310_635_Quick_F...981&

[DaveR]

I get why you did this but I wonder if you had not already had the damage if this solution (or indeed many like it) with a ttl cord wouldn’t have been more reasonable:

Stroboframe Quick Flip 350 Bracket:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/52728-REG/Stroboframe_310_635_Quick_F...981&

UncleVanya, I have used a version of the Stroboframe some time ago and also made one of my own, specifically for an MZ-S.

You raise a good point, but I now use both a K1 usually with a DFA 70-200 & Metz AF 64, and a K1ii with a DFA 24-70 & Godox V860iii. I use them in conjunction with dual SpiderPro holsters on a Prospeed Belt and harness that allow me to quickly change from one to the other and move about quickly.

A stroboframe on 2 camera bodies would be too cumberson for the way I work.

[UncleVanya]

UncleVanya, I have used a version of the Stroboframe some time ago and also made one of my own, specifically for an MZ-S.

You raise a good point, but I now use both a K1 usually with a DFA 70-200 & Metz AF 64, and a K1ii with a DFA 24-70 & Godox V860iii. I use them in conjunction with dual SpiderPro holsters on a Prospeed Belt and harness that allow me to quickly change from one to the other and move about quickly.

A stroboframe on 2 camera bodies would be too cumberson for the way I work.

That makes sense.