[TrailerBlades]

Hello Pentax world !It is pleasure to be here...
Long story short,i am Canon user since 8 Years,i shoot 99% landscape only,i've tried also Nikon for short period and just 1-2 days Sony but never liked them,but now i want to buy Pentax K1 ''mark I''.
I am in love with the color science of Pentax and the image output !I want to buy Pentax K1 ''mark I'',but i want also to ask some questions before i make this big step,because is very hard to change all the lenses...

Now my questions:

-If i mount for example Sigma 70-300 macro (it does not have stabilization) how Pentax K1 ''mark I'' stabilization will work ?Should i input every single time the mm of the lens and then take pictures,or what ?
-because i've shoot with Canon so many years,i always loved the Live View Exposure simulation with Live View Histogram option,does Pentax K1 has this option ?

Thank you !

[James O'Neill]

Welcome!

Lenses and shake reduction. Basically if the lens can tell the camera its focal length, the camera will use that for stabilization calculations. My understanding is that all autofocus lenses do this - Pentax or third party - non-AF lenses may only tell the camera what their lens aperture is so shutter-priority and program exposure work, and the oldest lenses don't tell the camera anything, and have a work around to set exposure properly in manual and Aperture priority. I have a Sigma 12-24 and a Tamron 28-300 both of which pre-date the Pentax shake reduction system, but work perfectly with it. Lenses without the necessary electronics, (and I have 2 from the 1980s) need to have the focal length selected from a list - and not all focal lengths are available. Setting this correctly as you zoom an old lens is possible - but you need to read the focal length and change it so often most people would probably use the older lenses without SR - since they also manually focusing, and maybe having to camera "Set shutter speed now".

Live view on the back of the camera supports histogram. You need to go into the menus to turn it on and off - there is quick access to a choice of minimum information, normal, and electronic level, and configuring what is on "normal" takes a moment to find.

[biz-engineer]

Live View Exposure simulation with Live View Histogram option,does Pentax K1 has this option ?

LV exposure simulation is in M mode only. LV histogram available in any mode.

[TrailerBlades]

Welcome!

Lenses and shake reduction. Basically if the lens can tell the camera its focal length, the camera will use that for stabilization calculations. My understanding is that all autofocus lenses do this - Pentax or third party - non-AF lenses may only tell the camera what their lens aperture is so shutter-priority and program exposure work, and the oldest lenses don't tell the camera anything, and have a work around to set exposure properly in manual and Aperture priority. I have a Sigma 12-24 and a Tamron 28-300 both of which pre-date the Pentax shake reduction system, but work perfectly with it. Lenses without the necessary electronics, (and I have 2 from the 1980s) need to have the focal length selected from a list - and not all focal lengths are available. Setting this correctly as you zoom an old lens is possible - but you need to read the focal length and change it so often most people would probably use the older lenses without SR - since they also manually focusing, and maybe having to camera "Set shutter speed now".

Live view on the back of the camera supports histogram. You need to go into the menus to turn it on and off - there is quick access to a choice of minimum information, normal, and electronic level, and configuring what is on "normal" takes a moment to find.

Thank you !This sounds great !

[TrailerBlades]

LV exposure simulation is in M mode only. LV histogram available in any mode.

Thanks !!

[TrailerBlades]

Welcome!

Lenses and shake reduction. Basically if the lens can tell the camera its focal length, the camera will use that for stabilization calculations. My understanding is that all autofocus lenses do this - Pentax or third party - non-AF lenses may only tell the camera what their lens aperture is so shutter-priority and program exposure work, and the oldest lenses don't tell the camera anything, and have a work around to set exposure properly in manual and Aperture priority. I have a Sigma 12-24 and a Tamron 28-300 both of which pre-date the Pentax shake reduction system, but work perfectly with it. Lenses without the necessary electronics, (and I have 2 from the 1980s) need to have the focal length selected from a list - and not all focal lengths are available. Setting this correctly as you zoom an old lens is possible - but you need to read the focal length and change it so often most people would probably use the older lenses without SR - since they also manually focusing, and maybe having to camera "Set shutter speed now".

Live view on the back of the camera supports histogram. You need to go into the menus to turn it on and off - there is quick access to a choice of minimum information, normal, and electronic level, and configuring what is on "normal" takes a moment to find.

This Tamron 28-300 seems amazing option for landscape work...is it sharp enough for example at f8 above ?

[Lord Lucan]

If i mount for example Sigma 70-300 macro (it does not have stabilization) how Pentax K1 ''mark I'' stabilization will work ?Should i input every single time the mm of the lens and then take pictures,or what ?

Wow, I have a K-1 Mk I and recently bought one of those lenses myself : this one? I like it! Your latest acquisition - Page 1747 - PentaxForums.com

There is no difference between the K-1 Mark I and II in image stabilisation tech. Pentax employs stabilisation in camera (IBIS), not in lens (ILIS?). People debate about the relative merits of IBIS versus ILIS, but an advantage of IBIS is that it even works with old manual lenses from 50 years ago. Back-compatibility has always been a Pentax brand feature.

That Sigma lens is modern enough that it does seem to transmit it's focal length to the camera. At least when I mount mine the camera does not ask for its focal length, unlike when I fit an old M-series manual lens for example. I suppose that if you were to use an old purely mechanical zoom lens, you could always enter a compromise length, such as 120mm in the case of a 70-300mm zoom.

[ChristianRock]

This Tamron 28-300 seems amazing option for landscape work...is it sharp enough for example at f8 above ?

If you could instead get a DFA 28-105mm (which would cost you 350-400 dollars used I think) that would be a much much better option for your landscape purposes - not just in sharpness but in color as well, and you mentioned that this matters to you.

[James O'Neill]

This Tamron 28-300 seems amazing option for landscape work...is it sharp enough for example at f8 above ?

It's not amazing. I call it a "travel zoom". If I need to take one lens with me it covers everything; I often take the camera and put a lens in each pocket, so I might have two primes and this one for anything else. Because I can't justify a 300mm prime I have used it to shoot motor racing and it's more than good enough.

On my crop sensor camera I have the Pentax 18-250 (which was replaced by a better 18-270, which has just gone out of production). I bought that because I had an 18-35, a 28-105, and a 100-300 and which ever one was on the camera I always wanted a different one. I shot with 18-35 at 35 a lot because I really wanted about 40-50 but that meant changing lenses. the 28-105 was used at 105 a lot, because although I wanted 120-135 I didn't want to change lenses, and when I absolutely couldn't avoid it (I needed 250-300 and had the 18-35 on the camera) the conditions were bad for swapping lenses over. The quality of those 3 zooms meant the 18-250 wasn't worse, but was more convenient, I thought the same when I bought the K1 and looked for full frame 28-300s and ended up with the Tamron. I have taken pictures with it that I simply would not have shot without it, but zooms with a big range are never fantastic optically, and don't have very fast apertures. A lot of customers want the most focal lengths for the fewest £,$ or €. and 1 zoom is cheaper than 3. I would pay the price of 3 to get something optically excellent and easy to travel with but there are not enough customers like me - and a top-end lens usually has a wide aperture meaning bigger, and less good to travel with. The good news is these lenses are often on ebay, and not too expensive so you can get one and if it doesn't work for you it can go back on ebay for roughly what you paid for it :-)

[TrailerBlades]

It's not amazing. I call it a "travel zoom". If I need to take one lens with me it covers everything; I often take the camera and put a lens in each pocket, so I might have two primes and this one for anything else. Because I can't justify a 300mm prime I have used it to shoot motor racing and it's more than good enough.

On my crop sensor camera I have the Pentax 18-250 (which was replaced by a better 18-270, which has just gone out of production). I bought that because I had an 18-35, a 28-105, and a 100-300 and which ever one was on the camera I always wanted a different one. I shot with 18-35 at 35 a lot because I really wanted about 40-50 but that meant changing lenses. the 28-105 was used at 105 a lot, because although I wanted 120-135 I didn't want to change lenses, and when I absolutely couldn't avoid it (I needed 250-300 and had the 18-35 on the camera) the conditions were bad for swapping lenses over. The quality of those 3 zooms meant the 18-250 wasn't worse, but was more convenient, I thought the same when I bought the K1 and looked for full frame 28-300s and ended up with the Tamron. I have taken pictures with it that I simply would not have shot without it, but zooms with a big range are never fantastic optically, and don't have very fast apertures. A lot of customers want the most focal lengths for the fewest £,$ or €. and 1 zoom is cheaper than 3. I would pay the price of 3 to get something optically excellent and easy to travel with but there are not enough customers like me - and a top-end lens usually has a wide aperture meaning bigger, and less good to travel with. The good news is these lenses are often on ebay, and not too expensive so you can get one and if it doesn't work for you it can go back on ebay for roughly what you paid for it :-)

I see,thank you for the info !!I always shoot at f11 above...more often at f16 almost 90% of the time,so if this lens can provide good sharpness at this apertures i think will be great for my camera bag.I use now Tamron 70-300 VC USD on my Canon R,and its very very sharp and cheap lens..i will miss it !

---------- Post added 05-26-23 at 06:25 AM ----------

If you could instead get a DFA 28-105mm (which would cost you 350-400 dollars used I think) that would be a much much better option for your landscape purposes - not just in sharpness but in color as well, and you mentioned that this matters to you.

Thanks I will consider it !This will be good option.

[Sandy Hancock]

I always shoot at f11 above...more often at f16 almost 90% of the time

In most circumstances, any improvements in the optical performance of a mediocre lens at f/16 will be lost to diffraction.
A better lens shot at f/8.0 or so will generally give you better resultant images.

[TrailerBlades]

In most circumstances, any improvements in the optical performance of a mediocre lens at f/16 will be lost to diffraction.
A better lens shot at f/8.0 or so will generally give you better resultant images.

I know that,but i have found that i like to trade f16 for 1 image,instead f8 for focus stack...also in these days,you can add Sharpness in the smart way in Photoshop for example...never had any problem even shooting at f18,then apply sharpness with zone mask only where needed without any/or minimal visible noise.

[Joetitch]

With 36mp in FF mode, there is a bit of "zoom" by crop. Even at apsc it still is 15mp. Many of the crop lenses cover larger than the crop frame and some are even FF. The K1 also has square crop available which puts a square overlay on the ovf and shifts the mind into other composition options.

[TrailerBlades]

How do you select focus points with K1 ??I don't see any joystick selector for that,is there fast way ?

[leekil]

If you push and the AF mode button the left side of the lens mount while turning the back thumbwheel, you can select different AF modes. If you choose "SEL 1" (displayed in the viewfinder as you look through it), you can then release the AF Mode button and use the four buttons around the OK button on the back of the camera to select a particular place for the focus point in the viewfinder.