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06-08-2016, 02:12 AM - 1 Like   #1681
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QuoteOriginally posted by VoiceOfReason Quote
I didn't get what I wanted because I don't have a clue where the Milky Way is, but here's some 20 and 30 second shots taken between 12 and 24mm and 4.5 to 5.6 aperture, all at ISO 3200, which tells me what I need to do when I try again. It was the first time I used my new Sigma 12-24. Sucks that there is enough distortion to keep me from stacking images. I could have cut the noise and gotten more stars.









Hello Fellow Hoosier. I use the Photopills app to plan my Milky way shot, and see where (and if) the Galactic core is visible where I am and at what time. It could be below the horizon for you at the time you shot those pictures. Also, the Core will be very faint if you shoot at f/5.6 and iso 3200 and 20 sec , you are 1-3 stops under-exposed for it. At 20 seconds, I would try f/2.8, or an SS of 40 seconds at iso 3200.

06-08-2016, 03:58 AM - 11 Likes   #1682
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A couple of pixel shifted shots using the DFA 24-70



06-08-2016, 04:04 AM - 1 Like   #1683
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QuoteOriginally posted by K-amps Quote
Very good details. What lens were you using here Colodian ?
Thanks, IŽist the Tokina 90mm f2,5 macro (manual) Rearconverter DA 1,4x and extension tube, 20mm, with k1 work very well, you can use f16 or f18 diaphragm without diffraction.
It is less demanding than the sensor k3 and the old lenses can be used.
06-08-2016, 04:51 AM - 1 Like   #1684
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QuoteOriginally posted by K-amps Quote
Hello Fellow Hoosier. I use the Photopills app to plan my Milky way shot, and see where (and if) the Galactic core is visible where I am and at what time. It could be below the horizon for you at the time you shot those pictures. Also, the Core will be very faint if you shoot at f/5.6 and iso 3200 and 20 sec , you are 1-3 stops under-exposed for it. At 20 seconds, I would try f/2.8, or an SS of 40 seconds at iso 3200.
Photopills is great. Also, Stellarium is a free desktop app you can download if you just want to get an idea of where to look for the Milky Way and what time of night it will be visible. This time of year, it's visible very late - like after midnight.

K-amps, your shot is incredible! Great work!

06-08-2016, 05:31 AM   #1685
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QuoteOriginally posted by K-amps Quote
Hello Fellow Hoosier. I use the Photopills app to plan my Milky way shot, and see where (and if) the Galactic core is visible where I am and at what time. It could be below the horizon for you at the time you shot those pictures. Also, the Core will be very faint if you shoot at f/5.6 and iso 3200 and 20 sec , you are 1-3 stops under-exposed for it. At 20 seconds, I would try f/2.8, or an SS of 40 seconds at iso 3200.
I had the 12-24 on, but will try again with the 24-70 tonight sicne I saw what kind of FOV 24 mm gives and since that one is a constant f/2.8. I checked and couldn't find Photopills in the Play Store. Must be iOS only.
06-08-2016, 05:49 AM   #1686
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
A couple of pixel shifted shots using the DFA 24-70



Some of the better pixel shifted landscapes I've seen Rondec.
06-08-2016, 05:56 AM   #1687
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
A couple of pixel shifted shots using the DFA 24-70



They look like they belong on the medium format forum. Very nice.
06-08-2016, 06:26 AM   #1688
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QuoteOriginally posted by VoiceOfReason Quote
I had the 12-24 on, but will try again with the 24-70 tonight sicne I saw what kind of FOV 24 mm gives and since that one is a constant f/2.8. I checked and couldn't find Photopills in the Play Store. Must be iOS only.

Try Starwalk2, it can do augmented reality and superimpose, celestial objects on your smartphone, its not as complete a solution, but great for eyeballing where to shoot. All it needs is your compass to run. I think there is a free version out there and I recall running it on my Android as well...

06-08-2016, 07:20 AM - 2 Likes   #1689
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QuoteOriginally posted by fs999 Quote
Thank you Eric ! I was more afraid than he


There is a certain look in his eye

Not sure what Rupert's homey's think about that furry guy, but my locals were not amused...
AF was fine in the shade of the tree. I am really enjoying the keeper rate of the K-1 autofocus. I'd have missed these while waiting for my K-5 to lock with the converter on there.


Tamron SP AF 70-200mm F2.8 Di LD [IF] Macro ƒ/4.5 200.0 mm 1/180 ISO 200 (This was with Tamron PZAF 1.4x, so math required, I guess the new Pentax 1.4x HD converter does the math for you???)



Tamron SP AF 70-200mm F2.8 Di LD [IF] Macro ƒ/4.5 200.0 mm 1/180 ISO 200





I removed the 1.4x TC and walked a little closer to see how close I could get, this guy became very suspicious at that point... like hey, you got some peanuts or something, or are you just messing with me?


Tamron SP AF 70-200mm F2.8 Di LD [IF] Macro ƒ/4.5 200.0 mm 1/180 ISO 400



Eric
06-08-2016, 07:21 AM   #1690
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
A couple of pixel shifted shots using the DFA 24-70



On your first image, when viewed full size on my monitor, I see a white edge on the details that almost looks artificial, like the edges applied using focus peaking. Is that just how PS renders back-lit edges, or something you see more commonly?
06-08-2016, 07:34 AM   #1691
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QuoteOriginally posted by klavrack Quote
On your first image, when viewed full size on my monitor, I see a white edge on the details that almost looks artificial, like the edges applied using focus peaking. Is that just how PS renders back-lit edges, or something you see more commonly?

I can't speak for him, but I just noticed on the 3 squirrel shots I posted above, that the last photo has what appears to be sharpening artifacts around the leaf behind his head that are not in the original. When I post the BBS share link from flikr for the "Large" size, PentaxForums downsizes the photo's a smidge, and I "think" maybe some artifacts happen from the web software downsizing it? All I can say is that the leaf behind the squirrels head in the original of that shot on flikr has some motion blur from the wind, but not a sharpening halo like it appears here. Weird!


Eric
06-08-2016, 07:50 AM   #1692
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QuoteOriginally posted by klavrack Quote
On your first image, when viewed full size on my monitor, I see a white edge on the details that almost looks artificial, like the edges applied using focus peaking. Is that just how PS renders back-lit edges, or something you see more commonly?
My guess is I turned the sharpening up a little too much. I am mainly using PDCU and then bumping up shadows in Lightroom, but the fine sharpening is kind of a blunt tool and it is probably too much there.
06-08-2016, 09:19 AM - 1 Like   #1693
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QuoteOriginally posted by colodion Quote
Thanks, IŽist the Tokina 90mm f2,5 macro (manual) Rearconverter DA 1,4x and extension tube, 20mm, with k1 work very well, you can use f16 or f18 diaphragm without diffraction.
It is less demanding than the sensor k3 and the old lenses can be used.
Thanks!
I did quick test, with old Tamron 90mm, 20mm extention tube, and old 2x Vivitar TC. It's such a cool combo. Takumar macro 50mm preset is next.
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06-08-2016, 11:04 AM - 4 Likes   #1694
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QuoteOriginally posted by Erictator Quote
AF was fine in the shade of the tree. I am really enjoying the keeper rate of the K-1 autofocus. I'd have missed these while waiting for my K-5 to lock with the converter on there.
with every new camera the AF gets better and better. One day Pentax will be better than canikon's

Superb shots ! It is more important to know what Otis thinks than Rupert, believe me !

Crop Mode • 100 ISO • Soligor C/D Wide-Auto 20mm f:2.8


Crop Mode • 100 ISO • Pentax DA* 200mm F2.8 ED SDM • Topaz Labs Texture Effects


FF Mode • 100 ISO • Soligor C/D Wide-Auto 20mm f:2.8

Last edited by fs999; 06-08-2016 at 01:03 PM.
06-08-2016, 11:13 AM - 2 Likes   #1695
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Fifty Shades Of Green... East Garden at Hatfield House

Pentax K1 and 28-105 F3.5-5.6



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