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07-20-2019, 11:34 AM - 2 Likes   #24721
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Buffalo River rock pano
K- mII, M50f1.7, made from six images

07-20-2019, 12:02 PM   #24722
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
ust how it should be, Hattifnatt limbs separated in a silhouette so the people avoid being one black blob, love it!
Thank you!

---------- Post added 20th Jul 2019 at 22:08 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
Awesome!!
07-20-2019, 03:29 PM - 4 Likes   #24723
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A morning opening

07-20-2019, 03:46 PM - 4 Likes   #24724
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More star trail practice.

I made 120 30 second images, then tossed two out because they had flaws caused when I tried to illuminate the nearby tree that is in the shadow of the house. The other trees are illuminated by the area light on the front of my shop, which is behind me to the right. Combined using StarStaX, then processed in Photoshop. I used a Sigma 16mm f2.8 Rectilinear Fisheye on the K-1 for this, and the following video. For future stacks I think I will be better off using an intervalometer so I can make exposures longer than 30 seconds.




For the video I tried the native star trails settings on the K-1. Like others have noted, I am not to crazy about it.



{Edit: Looks like I don't know how to link to a video from my Flickr account. So, I am uploading it to my YouTube page, and will edit this post later. Meanwhile, please feel free to click through to my Flickr page and view it there.}


Last edited by Racer X 69; 07-20-2019 at 03:55 PM.
07-20-2019, 07:54 PM - 1 Like   #24725
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QuoteOriginally posted by Racer X 69 Quote
More star trail practice.

I made 120 30 second images, then tossed two out because they had flaws caused when I tried to illuminate the nearby tree that is in the shadow of the house. The other trees are illuminated by the area light on the front of my shop, which is behind me to the right. Combined using StarStaX, then processed in Photoshop. I used a Sigma 16mm f2.8 Rectilinear Fisheye on the K-1 for this, and the following video. For future stacks I think I will be better off using an intervalometer so I can make exposures longer than 30 seconds.




For the video I tried the native star trails settings on the K-1. Like others have noted, I am not to crazy about it.



{Edit: Looks like I don't know how to link to a video from my Flickr account. So, I am uploading it to my YouTube page, and will edit this post later. Meanwhile, please feel free to click through to my Flickr page and view it there.}
Impressive star image.
Thanks for sharing,
barondla
07-20-2019, 08:10 PM - 7 Likes   #24726
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The 'Workhorse' (FA43).





07-20-2019, 10:07 PM - 1 Like   #24727
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QuoteOriginally posted by Racer X 69 Quote
More star trail practice.

I made 120 30 second images, then tossed two out because they had flaws caused when I tried to illuminate the nearby tree that is in the shadow of the house. The other trees are illuminated by the area light on the front of my shop, which is behind me to the right. Combined using StarStaX, then processed in Photoshop. I used a Sigma 16mm f2.8 Rectilinear Fisheye on the K-1 for this, and the following video. For future stacks I think I will be better off using an intervalometer so I can make exposures longer than 30 seconds.




For the video I tried the native star trails settings on the K-1. Like others have noted, I am not to crazy about it.



{Edit: Looks like I don't know how to link to a video from my Flickr account. So, I am uploading it to my YouTube page, and will edit this post later. Meanwhile, please feel free to click through to my Flickr page and view it there.}
So, after waiting all afternoon and into the evening, the 680mb avi file the camera created has uploaded to YouTube.


Frankly I am a bit disappointed. It is only 15 seconds long.

Wait.

What?

I set the camera to make 120 30 second exposures.

It should at least be an hour long.

Sheesh!
07-20-2019, 10:10 PM   #24728
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QuoteOriginally posted by barondla Quote
Impressive star image.
Thanks for sharing,
barondla
Thanks for the props. I guess it turned out OK for my second attempt. I'm going out again tonight to have another go. This time I am going to try to manually shoot every frame, with a wired remote, the shooting mode set to B, and the camera set to continuous shooting.

07-20-2019, 11:42 PM - 4 Likes   #24729
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Few monochrome shots with DFA 70-200 and FA 77.





07-21-2019, 01:23 AM - 11 Likes   #24730
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Not what you were expecting from the Thread Title...

More from my Eryngium (Sea Holly).

07-21-2019, 07:00 AM - 6 Likes   #24731
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I'm sure you all know these overlapping red, green and blue color circles. The center of the additive treatment is white.

When I was out photographing the partial moon eclipse some days ago, the idea struck me to do something similar with the highlighted moon.

So I set up a three exposure image using method "Additive" and repositioned the moon in the frame according the idea. Exposure time chosen so that the context would show some structure. Due to the monochrome appearance we see similar hues with culminating lightness at the center to nearly white ...


K-1 FF Square mode DFA150-450 + DA TC1.4x @ 504 mm exposures at ISO 100, f/11 0.3s
07-21-2019, 08:43 AM - 10 Likes   #24732
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1. green
07-21-2019, 10:34 AM - 6 Likes   #24733
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FF Mode • 100 ISO • Sigma Art 18-35mm F1.8 DC HSM


FF Mode • 100 ISO • Pentax FA 35mm F2 AL


FF Mode • 100 ISO • Pentax FA 35mm F2 AL • Topaz Labs Texture Effects 2.1
07-21-2019, 10:54 AM - 6 Likes   #24734
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With the D FA 28-105.






07-21-2019, 01:59 PM - 3 Likes   #24735
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QuoteOriginally posted by acoufap Quote

I'm sure you all know these overlapping red, green and blue color circles. The center of the additive treatment is white.

When I was out photographing the partial moon eclipse some days ago, the idea struck me to do something similar with the highlighted moon.

So I set up a three exposure image using method "Additive" and repositioned the moon in the frame according the idea. Exposure time chosen so that the context would show some structure. Due to the monochrome appearance we see similar hues with culminating lightness at the center to nearly white ...


K-1 FF Square mode DFA150-450 + DA TC1.4x @ 504 mm exposures at ISO 100, f/11 0.3s
Nice, I like a different approach.

I'm still trying to get my head around Average, Additive and Bright modes for composite. There was an article here on this forum about it but I think some of the gifs explaining it etc are no longer working.

Thus far I have used Average to 'get rid of tourists' quite effectively, it seems as though during the composite build it will analyse the things that are different between the frames and give them less priority;



This shot taken peak hour (dusk), so you can imagine the volume of tourists that were sitting or standing on the stairs etc. Twelve 30 second exposure shots combined in Composite Average mode.

So I get a little confused when people say they use Average mode for waterfalls and trying to mimic the slow motion water flow effect that you get from using ND filters and long exposures. My thinking is that it would be a poor effect as the frames for the water differ on each shot, and therefore as it builds the composite it would remove the water flow between the frames? A better mode would be Additive?

Bright just seems to stack image upon image upon image and therefore the entire composite gets overexposed and blown highlights everywhere, I'm not at all sure where this mode could be used effectively at all?
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