[LensBeginner]

Oh, cool thanks.

You're welcome

@BruceBanner nice shots! were the 40mm XS shots in FF or Crop mode?

[BruceBanner]

You're welcome

@BruceBanner nice shots! were the 40mm XS shots in FF or Crop mode?

I shoot all my 40XS in FF mode, it vignettes but ever so slightly, nothing that PP can't fix. If i get a clear blue sky later today I'll throw a shot up to illustrate, and perhaps a second showing my attempts at controlling the vignette.
But i find the important point is whether the shot benefits or not from the vignette. If it's a portrait shot or shots like this then a little vignette doesn't hurt the shot anyway, saves me a click in pp! If it's certain landscape shots where you're not wanting any vignetting to occur then that might be an issue, but I rarely use my 40mm for landscape stuff. I find the 40mm on FF is a great 'couples' FoV, the 50mm better for solo portrait shots.

[LensBeginner]

I shoot all my 40XS in FF mode, it vignettes but ever so slightly, nothing that PP can't fix. If i get a clear blue sky later today I'll throw a shot up to illustrate, and perhaps a second showing my attempts at controlling the vignette.
But i find the important point is whether the shot benefits or not from the vignette. If it's a portrait shot or shots like this then a little vignette doesn't hurt the shot anyway, saves me a click in pp! If it's certain landscape shots where you're not wanting any vignetting to occur then that might be an issue, but I rarely use my 40mm for landscape stuff. I find the 40mm on FF is a great 'couples' FoV, the 50mm better for solo portrait shots.

Thank! I asked because I had seen some shots on Flickr but was not completely sure.
I really like this lens, so the idea of being able to use it if I ever buy a K-1 is really nice

[milaber22]

[WPRESTO]

I found several of these images delightful, but I have a weak spot for kids exuding carefree youth, fun, happiness, totally lost in the joy of the moment.

[eaglem]

Another shower and more wet leaves.

[c.perkins]

Been busy rearranging the back garage and installing new doors this weekend.
One door down and one to go.
Took a few shots in my spare time using the new lens.

Clarence

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[eaglem]

What can I see in this Drop.

[longbow]

DFA 15-30

[LeRolls]

[pixie]

I wouldn't mind a bit more info about this shot if you have time to spare. I've rarely attempted Astro stuff so would like to gain some further knowledge.

1) When you say 'light painting' are you shining a torch onto the rocks or something, and keeping the shutter open for how long?

2) What settings did you have for the stars?

3) And lastly, I too am a Topaz kinda guy, tho I don't have Remask. What is remask's main feature/benefit? (I have Clarity, B&W Effects, Adjust 5, Simplify and Clean 3).

Sure.

1) I used a flashlight to illuminate the rocks. The A20/2.8 was at f6.7 for 8 minutes, ISO 100, focus at infinity, astrotracer off. I kept shining the flashlight all over the place for most of the exposure. This worked fairly well. I wish I would have turned the long exposure noise reduction on though, a lot of hot pixels everywhere.

2) Lens at f2.8, 90 seconds, ISO 400, focus at infinity, astrotracer on. This was not ideal, as you can see the results aren't the greatest. There are star trails clearly visible away from the center of the image. Next time I would go with higher ISO and shorter time. Again, I would turn the long exposure noise reduction on. But if I remember correctly, having it on will double the time for each shot (dark frame subtraction). I spent almost two hours on location even without having it on, ha ha. The good thing is that the Earth moves slowly so the Milky Way stays put to a degree. As for framing in the dark, I simply took super high ISO fast shutter shots to try to figure out the angles of the tripod ball head.

3) The astrotracer will blur the foreground in your sky shot. Topaz Remask seemed to be the easiest way to combine the two shots. But like I said this was my first attempt at this whole thing. I'm sure it can be done better in Photoshop.

Hope this helps.

[Tas]

A bit later than the previous image, still with the D-FA 15-30.



Tas

[Mallee Boy]

Is that the two door or four door Wrangler ?

[riseform]

Who invited the clouds? Partial milky way with the Rokinon 24 mm,
6 thirteen second frames stacked with Sequator



And the following day, a prairie rainbow with the Irix 15 mm

[BruceBanner]

Thank! I asked because I had seen some shots on Flickr but was not completely sure.
I really like this lens, so the idea of being able to use it if I ever buy a K-1 is really nice

I have attached a blank blue sky pic to illustrate the vignetting on the DA40XS on K-1 in FF mode, this was taken awhile ago (was too cloudy today). I recall doing the shot for someone else on a K-1 fb forum awhile back, still had the image.

I found several of these images delightful, but I have a weak spot for kids exuding carefree youth, fun, happiness, totally lost in the joy of the moment.

Sure.

1) I used a flashlight to illuminate the rocks. The A20/2.8 was at f6.7 for 8 minutes, ISO 100, focus at infinity, astrotracer off. I kept shining the flashlight all over the place for most of the exposure. This worked fairly well. I wish I would have turned the long exposure noise reduction on though, a lot of hot pixels everywhere.

2) Lens at f2.8, 90 seconds, ISO 400, focus at infinity, astrotracer on. This was not ideal, as you can see the results aren't the greatest. There are star trails clearly visible away from the center of the image. Next time I would go with higher ISO and shorter time. Again, I would turn the long exposure noise reduction on. But if I remember correctly, having it on will double the time for each shot (dark frame subtraction). I spent almost two hours on location even without having it on, ha ha. The good thing is that the Earth moves slowly so the Milky Way stays put to a degree. As for framing in the dark, I simply took super high ISO fast shutter shots to try to figure out the angles of the tripod ball head.

3) The astrotracer will blur the foreground in your sky shot. Topaz Remask seemed to be the easiest way to combine the two shots. But like I said this was my first attempt at this whole thing. I'm sure it can be done better in Photoshop.

Hope this helps.

This helps heaps, thanks for the detailed info.
My take has been to keep NR off for that very reason, doubling the take time is painful, would mean a 16min shot for just the rocks alone! I'd prefer to deal with noise in post. Now if 'hot pixels' is that thing where a few pixels just seem to be a very bright orange or red im amongst the black/dark, I find that pretty easy to fix in LR in post (I think I've had that occur when doing Pixelshift images that have black backgrounds for longish exposures). I didn't know the NR feature would help eliminate them, but tbh I'd rather do in post than wait the same exposure time all over again in the chilly dark (or whatever lol... boredom in the dark heh).

DO you feel the ISO 100 for the rocks was necessary? I can understand the f6.7, but could you have shortened the exposure time down to 4mins rather than 8 with ISO 200? Not much difference in IQ between 100 and 200 but you gain a massive 4 mins quicker shot (you can see I am super lazy and lack patience hehe).

I'll try and learn from your 'mistakes' (if you can all them that, I think the shot is fabby as is!), I might try ISO 800 or 1600 for the sky. If using a FA 50mm, 1.4, is it advisable to use f1.4-1.6 for the stars, or is that considered just too wide, and something like f2 recommended minimum I wonder...?

As for Remask, it sounds like it's just a masking tool rather than a special effect/filter, in which case I should be fine as I use PS for my masking jobs.

Once again, cheers for the breakdown, helps heaps as Astro is something I haven't really seriously done before and now I have a general jist of what to try.

-----

Here's a couple of shots of a street performer at Vivid this year, I'm calling her the "Golden Globe Girl'