[dcpropilot]

Implement automatic AF fine tune, like Nikon began in their recent cameras (cf. Maximum sharpness: Nikon's automated AF Fine Tune explained: Digital Photography Review) and as I already suggested more than one year ago (cf. RIAC forum)

I like this idea

[monochrome]

Top wheels are pretty useless, on previous DSLR (K-3 and earlier), the front and back wheel already can do the same functions. Those two wheels added on the top are just a marketing gimmick because there are already two wheels at the back and front like it is on the K-3, and if you look at video show casing the K-1, those top wheel are barely used at all. My guess is that those two top wheels will be gone on the next camera model, and that the fancy tilt display will also be replaced by a normal tilt display. It's not because a product is different that it is better, differences should bring an advantage, instead of making the design more complex without benefit.

My bet is both will become standard features of flagship dSLR's, along with the LED's.

[Barry Pearson]

I was thinking more along the lines of 1.5 (APS-C crop), 1.4, 1.3, 1.2, 1.1 and 'no crop'.

You then take your technically not FF glass and evaluate it in order to find your personal sweet spot in terms of vignetting, edge sharpness etc.

I find it useful on my LX100 to have aspect ratios other than 3:2. (I assumed, apparently incorrectly, that the suggestions were about aspect ratios, rather than size-reductions for a 3:2 aspect ratio).

On the K-1, the crop size affects the burst rate and the raw file size. I suspect something like a 4:3 aspect ratio (or possibly 1:1 aspect ratio) would give quite a good balance between burst rate, raw file size, and image quality, for lenses such as the DA* 60-250mm.

I suppose we will learn more about desirable extra crop values once we have experience with the K-1.

[Rupert]

Front wheel = Shutter speed, Back wheel = Aperture, Top wheel = ISO. I will use this combo alot. No need to depress ISO-button and use back wheel anymore.

Exactly! Stopping to reset the ISO is a real pain and as bad as having to go to the menu. Having it on a wheel will mean fewer lost shots.

I'd also like to see the 1:1 ratio. It has its value. I use it often on my Fuji X10 X20.

Regards!

[stevebrot]

Studio flash synchronization with pixel shift (please at least work on developing the capability for some future FF product model).

I suspect the problem here is that the camera has no way to tell if the flash has been recharged and is ready to fire again.

It does if a dedicated flash is mounted. Both Pentax digital and analog TTL protocols provide flash ready and flash successful to the body. Even my vintage AF280T is capable of signally those and other state information to the body.

What would be needed for pixel shift flash support is the ability to generate four identical discharges at triggered interval based on the initial pre-flash pulse. Adding that feature would require a new protocol and new line of flashes. In any case, it is unlikely there would be a general body firmware solution to allow use of generic speedlights/strobes for pixel shift lighting.


Steve

(...trying to figure out the studio scenario where flash over continuous lighting would be required...)

[stevebrot]

Implement automatic AF fine tune, like Nikon began in their recent cameras

It would seem this would be an obvious feature.

I already suggested more than one year ago

You, me, and several other people dating back to when the DotTune video on YouTube first surfaced. Pentax bodies have had the onboard means to self-calibrate for several years.


Steve

[stevebrot]

4 flashes mounted in a modifier triggered sequentially. Ricoh could also develop a special flash pack with 4 bulbs.

You mean something like this?






Steve

[stevebrot]

My bet is both will become standard features of flagship dSLR's, along with the LED's.

I agree. It is a good idea and not just a marketing feature.


Steve

[Winder]

Implement automatic AF fine tune, like Nikon began in their recent cameras (cf. Maximum sharpness: Nikon's automated AF Fine Tune explained: Digital Photography Review) and as I already suggested more than one year ago (cf. RIAC forum)

People have been asking for that ever since CDAF was implemented into DSLRs. If DSLRs are going to stay ahead of mirrorless, they have to improve on this.

[JPT]

Top wheels are pretty useless, on previous DSLR (K-3 and earlier), the front and back wheel already can do the same functions. Those two wheels added on the top are just a marketing gimmick because there are already two wheels at the back and front like it is on the K-3, and if you look at video show casing the K-1, those top wheel are barely used at all. My guess is that those two top wheels will be gone on the next camera model, and that the fancy tilt display will also be replaced by a normal tilt display. It's not because a product is different that it is better, differences should bring an advantage, instead of making the design more complex without benefit.

Having tried the K-1 a couple of times now, I think the features you're dismissing here are really good. The top wheels are good for people who want to control three parameters at once. I do think that some of the functions on the dual are a bit ill-suited though. For example, the wifi option is just on/off, so it doesn't seem a natural choice for dial operation.

I think you're completely wrong about the tilt screen. It makes things simpler for the user, because it has much more freedom of movement. You just pull it out and position it as you like. You are not restricted to up and down movement, and you don't have to swing it out to the side first. It's like a good piece of software. It may be complex behind the scenes, bit it makes things really simple for the user.

[biz-engineer]

Having tried the K-1 a couple of times now, I think the features you're dismissing here are really good. The top wheels are good for people who want to control three parameters at once. I do think that some of the functions on the dual are a bit ill-suited though. For example, the wifi option is just on/off, so it doesn't seem a natural choice for dial operation. I think you're completely wrong about the tilt screen. It makes things simpler for the user, because it has much more freedom of movement. You just pull it out and position it as you like. You are not restricted to up and down movement, and you don't have to swing it out to the side first. It's like a good piece of software. It may be complex behind the scenes, bit it makes things really simple for the user.

I should say that what I wrote in from my personal preferences. If I'll get the K-1 , I don't think I'll use more than what's available on K-5 and K-3. Other users may feel otherwise.

[Ken Pimontel]

I suspect the problem here is that the camera has no way to tell if the flash has been recharged and is ready to fire again. You'd need an adjustable delay or something for that. I'm not sure how long the buffer can hold information, whether it works like RAM or temporary solid state storage.

I would suggest adding a menu like interval shooting for this:

How many shots <xx>
Delay/interval <xx>sec.

Done.

[Lowell Goudge]

It does if a dedicated flash is mounted. Both Pentax digital and analog TTL protocols provide flash ready and flash successful to the body. Even my vintage AF280T is capable of signally those and other state information to the body.

What would be needed for pixel shift flash support is the ability to generate four identical discharges at triggered interval based on the initial pre-flash pulse. Adding that feature would require a new protocol and new line of flashes. In any case, it is unlikely there would be a general body firmware solution to allow use of generic speedlights/strobes for pixel shift lighting.


Steve

(...trying to figure out the studio scenario where flash over continuous lighting would be required...)

What if it is done like high speed sync, using on,y perhaps 40% power so the first and second flash coul be closely timed but maintaining the same intensity

[Cthulhugan]

AstroStacker, combining AstroTrace and interval composite mode to extend effective exposure times. After shooting the first frame to the limit of sensor movement, the camera reads the sensor to the buffer, resets the sensor position and starts another exposure. Exposures are overlaid in the buffer, much like panorama stitching, and the pixel data is composited as interval composite does today. You wind up with a larger, non-rectangular image similar to a stitched panorama, which would require non-standard handling, but in-camera panorama processing is nothing new, so I'm sure it is both possible and practical.

[Barry Pearson]

I should say that what I wrote in from my personal preferences. If I'll get the K-1 , I don't think I'll use more than what's available on K-5 and K-3. Other users may feel otherwise.

I think the first thing I will do when I get my K-1 is to go through the entire menu and make the same settings that I have on my K-3II. (And they in turn were derived from the settings in my K-5IIs).

Where possible, I want my cameras to work in a similar way. because it makes things much easier for me. I have been generating my own profiles to use in Lightroom and Photoshop for years, for the same reason. As a result, my cameras tend to have similar colour-rendition.

But where a camera offers more things that are of use to me, I will then add that to my workflow. (And I will ignore any extra features that don't benefit me). If the Function dial had nothing for me, I would ignore it. But I've worked out that apparently it will enable me to work more effectively in fast changing situations.