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06-25-2016, 07:07 AM   #226
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Sigma 70mm EX DG Macro

Lens occasionally behaves like a manual.

It seems to have a communication loss from time to time. When this happens: focal length has to be entered, Auto-Focus does not work, just Spot- and Center Weighted Metering available, no F-Number being displayed.

It then returns to normal function back again while using the camera..., then back again to the weird operation mode. If this switch happens, the camera goes back to the standard information screen. No Freeze.

Lens works on K5II just fine.

edit: It feels like if I can switch from normal to weird by moving or slightly shaking the camera.


Last edited by von_gruen; 06-25-2016 at 07:13 AM.
06-25-2016, 12:58 PM   #227
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
Same with Canon DSLRs, at least. With AFS focus priority being set, the camera firmware wait for the AF lock to release the shutter mechanism (shutter mechanism and AF servo are tightly synchronized). In AFC mode, autofocus servo and shutter mechanism are asynchronous, this enable the AF servo loop regulation to work continuously so that no time is lost when tracking a moving target. If the AFC is set to FPS instead of focus prio, the two systems are completely independent so the number of frames per second is maximum regardless of the focus status.
Thank you that is the part on which I wanted confirmation, so it is a normal behaviour.

BTW thanks for advices about A-modes but I don't use them, that was just to describe my testing scenarios, they usually give very poor results in real life situations compaired to SEL-modes
06-25-2016, 02:00 PM   #228
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It's normal as backbutton and shutter release are decoupled from each other

I suspect the bug that is talked about here (and I agree it impacts the 24-70 a lot more) is when back button is not used, afs and focus priority is enabled and intermittently in good or bad light the camera snaps to focus very quickly, however the red reticle does not light immediately (giving the perception of lag) before releasing the shutter.
I suspect many reviews will have encountered this and will have given the perception of slow af.

Focusing with backbutton and it is both extremely fast and accurate.
06-25-2016, 04:00 PM   #229
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
I think you've got to make up your mind, Shanti.

Go to RAW rather than RAW+ if you want to spare the buffer all those JPEGs. Go to JPEGs by themselves if a long burst and recovery is important.

The huge number of pixels means your framerate will be low (around 5fps, like the D810 and Sony A7IIR) and the buffer fills quickly.

This is why Nikon sell the D4 as well as the 810 - for wildlife and sports shooting. But it is only 16Mp.
I get the same if only RAW 11-12 shots?? all I want is 17 I know the D500 is faster,but I can live with 17 for now, with JPEG only I get around 30 shots before it fills up..so something is not quite right

---------- Post added 06-26-16 at 01:01 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by joergens.mi Quote
I think the values are
17 pictures with RAW only (40 MB/pic * 17pics = 680 MB)
70 pictures with JPG (***) only (10 MB/pic * 70pics = 700 MB)
if you combine this to raw+ the rate must be slower. (680 MB / 50 = roundabout 13 Pics max) The real rate will be lower because of the handling of both file formats. Therefore your results are plausible.
All spezifications are only talking about raw only and jpg only.
with JPEG only I get about 30 no where near 70..so that's why I post here..

06-25-2016, 04:21 PM - 1 Like   #230
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at +20,000 clicks the only bug i experienced is some freezing/lockdown that occured a few times ( max 10 times), and removing the battery solved the problem.
06-26-2016, 02:26 PM   #231
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In manual mode, AE-L is ignored when changing ISO.

This is not a regression from previous models, which have the same problem. But it's a problem none the less. Here's a simple step by step instruction:

1. Set the camera to manual mode.
2. Set some exposure that gives you the image brightness you desire.
3. Press AE-L.
4. Adjust the ISO.

Expected result:
Image brightness is maintained, as I clearly requested in step 3. Preferably this would be achieved by adjusting whatever I have set the green button to adjust, but honestly just working at all would be great.

Actual result:
Image brightness is changed, because only the ISO is adjusted. Just like if I didn't activate AE-L.

Note that if you replace step 4 with adjusting the aperture or shutter speed the result is as expected, the image brightness is maintained. I mention this because otherwise I expect someone to claim that the image brightness should change, because they ignore my step 3.

It doesn't matter if I adjust the ISO using the ISO button + back wheel or using the third wheel.
06-26-2016, 11:13 PM   #232
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Actual result:
Image brightness is changed, because only the ISO is adjusted. Just like if I didn't activate AE-L.

When you activate AE-L and change ISO, camera can't decide what parameter to adjust first to maintain the same brightness - shutter speed or aperture.
The same behavior is on my Pentax k-5ii. It's normal.
06-27-2016, 02:02 AM   #233
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QuoteOriginally posted by Medex Quote
When you activate AE-L and change ISO, camera can't decide what parameter to adjust first to maintain the same brightness - shutter speed or aperture.
The same behavior is on my Pentax k-5ii. It's normal.
As I said in my original post, I have decided what it should change by selecting what the green button changes. (Shutter speed in my case.) There is no reason the camera couldn't follow this. The only reason it doesn't work is that the firmware has not been fixed to make it work.

06-27-2016, 07:03 AM   #234
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QuoteOriginally posted by von_gruen Quote
Lens occasionally behaves like a manual.

It seems to have a communication loss from time to time. When this happens: focal length has to be entered, Auto-Focus does not work, just Spot- and Center Weighted Metering available, no F-Number being displayed.

It then returns to normal function back again while using the camera..., then back again to the weird operation mode. If this switch happens, the camera goes back to the standard information screen. No Freeze.

Lens works on K5II just fine.

edit: It feels like if I can switch from normal to weird by moving or slightly shaking the camera.
I've had this with various lenses as well. Seems to work fine on one, not so well on another.

In all cases for me it has turned out to be dirty contacts. Take a Q-Tip moistened with rubbing alcohol and clean all the electrical contacts on the lens AND the camera. I also run the Q-Tip all around the surface of the lens mounts to remove any dirt there too.
06-27-2016, 12:20 PM   #235
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Mode stuck on Manual Program

I just sent my K-1 off to precision. I have the progam mode stuck on Manual issue. There have been a few PF users I think with this issue as well. I also noted that the auto ISO is not functioning. Sad to see it go but hoping it comes back ready for action.
06-27-2016, 12:24 PM   #236
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dice Quote
I just sent my K-1 off to precision. I have the progam mode stuck on Manual issue. There have been a few PF users I think with this issue as well. I also noted that the auto ISO is not functioning. Sad to see it go but hoping it comes back ready for action.
How much pictures did you make with k-1?
06-27-2016, 12:26 PM   #237
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QuoteOriginally posted by Medex Quote
How much pictures did you make with k-1?
about 1000
06-27-2016, 01:38 PM   #238
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QuoteOriginally posted by Medex Quote
How much pictures did you make with k-1?
Why does it have anything to do with shutter count ?
06-28-2016, 12:12 AM   #239
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QuoteOriginally posted by VoiceOfReason Quote
Can't seem to get AstroTracer calibrated to save my life on the K1.
Do you have confirmed GPS lock when calibrating?
06-28-2016, 04:42 AM   #240
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tjompen1968 Quote
Do you have confirmed GPS lock when calibrating?
It says it does, but I can't get pics without star trails, even 30 seconds or less.
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