[DSLRnovice]

Since I shoot mostly in available light, I have not invested heavily in modern flash units. I have successfully used my trusty Vivitar 283 on my K20d via the hot shoe extension cord of the flash. I am hoping that might be an option with the K-1 as well, especially since it has no on board flash.

Maybe someone here could tell from this information in the manual, whether or not my flash would be safe:

"Caution
• Flashes with the reversed polarity (the center contact on the
hot shoe is minus) cannot be used due to the risk of damaging
the camera and flash.
• Do not combine with accessories that have a different
number of contacts, such as Hot Shoe Grip, as a malfunction
may occur.
• Combining with flashes from other manufacturers may cause
equipment breakdown."

Any advice would be appreciated.

Dan

[Adam]

If it worked with your K20D and didn't damage it, I don't see why it would be any different on the K-1

[ScooterMaxi Jim]

Adam, the vast majority of 283s have high trigger voltage. I don't know if Dan (OP) has tested his, but I would always provide a general warning for others. I'm reposting what I stated over at the other forum...

Reversed polarity is rare in flash units - and that warning applies to any recent Pentax camera.

However, high trigger voltage is not at all rare, and pretty much all Vivitar 283 units are extremely high voltage. Most (not all) 285s are OK. Most often, even with the very high voltage units, you'll be frying the circuit gradually rather than with the very first shot.

Vivitar today no longer makes a quality flash. The closest, economical auto flash (but somewhat light duty) available to replace the 283 likely is this:

Bower SFD290

Better in that it swivels as well as bounces, but it has about one stop less power. For some reason, the better non-TTL flash brands now such as Yongnuo and Cactus are manual flashes that allow control by setting ratio. Auto has fallen out of favor.

[DSLRnovice]

I just looked up the thread in dpreview where I asked about using the Vivitar 283 with the K20. Another user reported success with his K10, and I found information that the K20 could handle up to 30 volts. I probably checked the voltage of the 283 and confirmed that it put out about 8 volts in use. Others said theirs registered up to 180 volts.

Not so sure I am willing to risk the K-1 at twice the price of the K20! All I really need is a small portable flash for occasional outdoor fill. I will check out the Bower and others out there.

Dan

[Na Horuk]

I think if you have enough money to invest into a K-1, you should invest into a good, modern flash system.
In fact, get a K-3 instead and spend the difference on lights. For many purposes, flash and light system is incredibly important. Even many nature and travel photos get enhanced by it. Not to mention product photography, macro, still life and portraiture

Also, you can buy that unit that goes between the flash and the camera, so the camera is protected from the high voltage.

[rawr]

If one is determined to use older flashes ... for reference, the Cactus V6 radio trigger can function as a 'safe-sync' between camera and flash, as well as doing it's regular flash triggering duties. My ancient Metz 45 CT1 would instantly fry my K-3/K-5 otherwise.

[UncleVanya]

Hooking up to the PCSync socket is also safer than the hot shoe. That connection is typically buffered because of the wider variety of things that connect there and the lack of control over the ecosystem.

[ScooterMaxi Jim]

As long as you are sure about the 8 volts, you won't be putting any strain on the camera circuitry. I am sure that many folks have put a high-voltage flash on the Pentax bodies without knowing, but reports of consequential damage to electronics are not at all common. Not that anyone should risk it, but 8 volts is essentially the same as the camera battery system.

[mee]

I think if you have enough money to invest into a K-1, you should invest into a good, modern flash system.
In fact, get a K-3 instead and spend the difference on lights. For many purposes, flash and light system is incredibly important. Even many nature and travel photos get enhanced by it. Not to mention product photography, macro, still life and portraiture

Also, you can buy that unit that goes between the flash and the camera, so the camera is protected from the high voltage.

Yes! If one is able to warrant 1800 USD on a camera upgrade, why not spend a paltry 300 more and get a modern flash that is known working with the K-1? Can even shop used and get it for much less than that.

[dfp771]

I have a Metz 52 AF1 that I bought last year from Adorama. With the rebate it was $240. They have a used Metz AF1 on Amazon for about $200. Buy it. Works well on and off camera. HSS works up to 1/8000 sec on camera with Pentax K5iis.

[totsmuyco]

Don't risk it if you're not sure. As others here are saying, invest on the right equipment. Damaging your much awaited k-1 would hurt not just your pockets but yourself.

[stevebrot]

I will play the devil's advocate here. To be honest, If I had a Vivitar 283 and had just bought a K-1, I would be VERY interested in using the Viv with that camera. The 283 is a classic and a real workhorse. It's built-in auto-thyristor feature is more robust in actual use than the P-TTL system in Pentax-system flashes, though with somewhat less flexibility. The solution, IMHO is to buy a safe-sync with PC "tap" or equivalent ($20 USD and up) and enjoy your Viv 283.


Steve

(...has and prefers a Pentax AF280T for many purposes over a full-featured Sigma P-TTL flash...)

[DSLRnovice]

Yes! If one is able to warrant 1800 USD on a camera upgrade, why not spend a paltry 300 more and get a modern flash that is known working with the K-1? Can even shop used and get it for much less than that.

There is another way of looking at it for some of us. There have been many upgrades since the K20d which I have passed up. Therefor it is easier for me to justify the expense of the K-1. But that is all the more reason to not spend even more for equipment that I will very rarely use in this already expensive hobby.

Thanks to Steve on this forum, I have learned that of safe syncs that are more reasonably priced that will suit my needs.

---------- Post added 05-01-2016 at 02:12 PM ----------

I will play the devil's advocate here. To be honest, If I had a Vivitar 283 and had just bought a K-1, I would be VERY interested in using the Viv with that camera. The 283 is a classic and a real workhorse. It's built-in auto-thyristor feature is more robust in actual use than the P-TTL system in Pentax-system flashes, though with somewhat less flexibility. The solution, IMHO is to buy a safe-sync with PC "tap" or equivalent ($20 USD and up) and enjoy your Viv 283.


Steve

(...has and prefers a Pentax AF280T for many purposes over a full-featured Sigma P-TTL flash...)

The other advantage of the safe-sync you mentioned is that it can be used in combination with a compact low power flash on the camera to trigger my 2-283's with Wein sensors that I already have. I wasn't aware they could be found at that price. Thanks for the tip.