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05-05-2016, 09:26 AM   #1
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Consistency with Manual Lenses?

I know its early days with the K-1 but I was wondering if anyone had used it enough to get an idea of how consistent it is at exposing with manual lenses?

I find that on my K-3 the camera has not only a tendency to over expose with manual lenses but it also seems to be more variable in its metering even if the scene is largely unchanged light level wise.

Edit: using the green button stop down metering

05-05-2016, 09:51 AM   #2
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me too!

I find the same thing with my K-3. It is rather consistent in 1 exposed correctly and the next underexposed by about 1 stop. This is using a manual focus Tokina 400mm SD lens with A-setting on , in TAV set to 1000/s and 8.0/a where ISO is automatic in "rapid fire"-medium. So re-composition is not the issue. Before reading your post I thought it was me being the problem, and perhaps it is?
I would like to know if there is an adjustment to prevent this from happening.
05-05-2016, 11:33 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by awaywego Quote
I find the same thing with my K-3. It is rather consistent in 1 exposed correctly and the next underexposed by about 1 stop. This is using a manual focus Tokina 400mm SD lens with A-setting on , in TAV set to 1000/s and 8.0/a where ISO is automatic in "rapid fire"-medium. So re-composition is not the issue. Before reading your post I thought it was me being the problem, and perhaps it is?
I would like to know if there is an adjustment to prevent this from happening.
An 'A' lens is not a manual lens (for exposure purposes) if the 'A' setting is in use -- works mostly the same as a more modern lens (the difference being adjustments made because of chip-encoded data on newer lenses that allow the camera to pick based on MTF curve etc). In any case, an 'A' lens is not stopping down to test exposure like a true manual lens (and 'A' can also use full matrix metering whereas manual can use only center or spot metering).

So if your 'A' lens is not consistent, the questions are...Is the camera actually changing values between shots with an unchanging scene and same composition? (It shouldn't, but that really only applies indoors on a tripod under constant lighting.) If it is not changing values but your actual exposures vary, it sounds like a lens or aperture actuator problem, i.e. sticky aperture blades or the body isn't stopping down correctly.)

But, all that is off-topic of the OP's question, which is about actual manual lenses with no 'A' mode. They do tend to be "off", and require EV compensation, but in theory should be consistent. (But have often heard they are not.) Keep in mind you are restricted to spot and center metering, so that can make it more finicky depending on what you are pointing at.
05-05-2016, 11:39 AM   #4
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I have realy even results on my voigtlander 180 on my K-1

05-05-2016, 01:42 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by awaywego Quote
I would like to know if there is an adjustment to prevent this from happening.
What metering mode do you use? If spot metering, stop using that.
05-05-2016, 02:03 PM   #6
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I haven't had an issue with k-3 and manual lenses I use. I actually do keep mine on spot metering, I can't recall if there is a choice or not with manual lens, but it means being very aware of what you are metering. i usually meter a few different spots and then pick an average
05-05-2016, 02:05 PM   #7
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I've not played with too many M/K lenses so far, just a little walk around with the K18, and a brief test with a K55. Generally I find the k-1 slightly over exposes (but it does that for all lenses I've used, including FA and DFA), so I pretty much shoot at -0.7. I haven't found the metering on the K lenses to be any different than the newer lenses. The only problem is that occasionally I forget to hit the green button before taking a shot

Another random point, is that I used to find metering on the sigma 8-16 was all over the place on the k-3. It's spot on with the k-1.
05-06-2016, 02:05 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Murfy Quote
I haven't had an issue with k-3 and manual lenses I use. I actually do keep mine on spot metering, I can't recall if there is a choice or not with manual lens, but it means being very aware of what you are metering. i usually meter a few different spots and then pick an average
I think you can do center weighting or sport.

I remember the *ist DS being pretty OK for metering, the K-7 reasonable but the K-3 at least appears to be a touch on and off. This could be my faulty memory of course.

---------- Post added 05-06-16 at 10:06 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by robthebloke Quote
I've not played with too many M/K lenses so far, just a little walk around with the K18, and a brief test with a K55. Generally I find the k-1 slightly over exposes (but it does that for all lenses I've used, including FA and DFA), so I pretty much shoot at -0.7. I haven't found the metering on the K lenses to be any different than the newer lenses. The only problem is that occasionally I forget to hit the green button before taking a shot

Another random point, is that I used to find metering on the sigma 8-16 was all over the place on the k-3. It's spot on with the k-1.
Could to know about the tendency to over expose.

The K-1's metering system wasn't significantly altered from the K-3's was it?

05-06-2016, 04:37 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by rawr Quote
What metering mode do you use? If spot metering, stop using that.
I am using spot metering. No longer!! Thank you for an easy solution.
05-06-2016, 05:04 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by awaywego Quote
I am using spot metering. No longer!! Thank you for an easy solution.
Use it only for very specific situations, Awaywego, like the skin tone on a backlit portrait subject.

05-07-2016, 07:03 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Use it only for very specific situations, Awaywego, like the skin tone on a backlit portrait subject.
My only experience before was with the K20. Apparently the K10 did better exposures with manual lenses. The K20 was inconsistent. The K-1 is much better. Some lenses have the histogram on the brighter side, so I will probably use exp compensation with them. I do like that it allows for center weighted metering. Thanks for pointing that out. The K20 only allowed for spot on manual lenses.

Most of my manual lenses are not super sharp, but FF gives me more options for shallow depth of field, where the edges are not critical.
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