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05-09-2016, 12:32 PM   #1
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From K20 to K-1

Maybe someone will get a laugh from this like the thread about the sensor movement. When I took the battery out to finish charging it, I thought I would tinker with the camera and various lenses. Strangely, none of the manual lenses could be brought into focus, then I tried an autofocus one, which could not focus either. I put the battery back in the camera, and before turning it on, it was fine. So am I correct in assuming this is not new to others who have upgraded from more recent models?

Overall, I am very pleased and am more excited to get out and make photographs than I have been for a long time. There are a few things I miss that I liked about the K20. I could go directly to preview from standby with one click. Two clicks on info and I get a histogram. Maybe that can be changed with the K-1, but now it takes 2 clicks from standby to get preview, to get a histogram I have to press info, then 2 clicks on the left WB, then okay to get the histogram. The 4 USER settings are great. It seems reduntant to me that ISO and Exposure Compensate are also on the wheel when they are available as separate buttons on top. Bracketing can be turned on with the function wheel but not turned off.

The IQ is terrific and fully up to my expectation. This is equal to Medium Format film quality for sure.

Dan

05-09-2016, 12:40 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by DSLRnovice Quote
Maybe someone will get a laugh from this like the thread about the sensor movement. When I took the battery out to finish charging it, I thought I would tinker with the camera and various lenses. Strangely, none of the manual lenses could be brought into focus, then I tried an autofocus one, which could not focus either. I put the battery back in the camera, and before turning it on, it was fine. So am I correct in assuming this is not new to others who have upgraded from more recent models?
Dan
I think this is the first camera with that "feature" due to the LCD screen in the viewfinder.
05-09-2016, 12:54 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by DSLRnovice Quote
Maybe someone will get a laugh from this like the thread about the sensor movement. When I took the battery out to finish charging it, I thought I would tinker with the camera and various lenses. Strangely, none of the manual lenses could be brought into focus, then I tried an autofocus one, which could not focus either. I put the battery back in the camera, and before turning it on, it was fine. So am I correct in assuming this is not new to others who have upgraded from more recent models?

Overall, I am very pleased and am more excited to get out and make photographs than I have been for a long time. There are a few things I miss that I liked about the K20. I could go directly to preview from standby with one click. Two clicks on info and I get a histogram. Maybe that can be changed with the K-1, but now it takes 2 clicks from standby to get preview, to get a histogram I have to press info, then 2 clicks on the left WB, then okay to get the histogram. The 4 USER settings are great. It seems reduntant to me that ISO and Exposure Compensate are also on the wheel when they are available as separate buttons on top. Bracketing can be turned on with the function wheel but not turned off.

The IQ is terrific and fully up to my expectation. This is equal to Medium Format film quality for sure.

Dan

Without the battery the viewfinder get really dark and blurry Happened to me to Gave me quite a scare.

The two click thing came with the K-3 and I hate it but have learned to live with it. Therefor my LCD is "turned of by default".
05-09-2016, 01:08 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by DSLRnovice Quote
Bracketing can be turned on with the function wheel but not turned off.
There's a workaround: switch the settings dial to CH/CL, then turn the e-dial one click forward and one click back, and the camera will revert to your original shooting mode. I hope they make it possible to disable bracketing directly via a firmware update.

As for the multiple clicks needed to get to the histogram, etc., that behavior was introduced a few generations ago, on the K-50 I believe. I'm not the biggest fan of it myself, but I think they changed it to reduce the likelihood of unexpected changes while in playback mode.


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05-09-2016, 01:21 PM - 1 Like   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by DSLRnovice Quote
Strangely, none of the manual lenses could be brought into focus
Like you I've gone from K20Ds to K1 and while waiting for the batteries to take on their first initial charge... I couldn't get a sharp image through the viewfinder either.

I must admit, I whipped out a battery from the charger just to try it... all was well.
05-09-2016, 01:59 PM   #6
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So what is different about the K-1 viewfinder? Is it more than just a larger optical viewfinder? Is there some sort of electronic overlay? Why would that be needed to make an image look focused? It's questions questions questions from me tonight!
05-09-2016, 05:27 PM   #7
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It has a LCD pass thru (overlay) screen between the focus screen and pentaprism. The LCD has the various grid lines, electronic level, focus points etc.

What I want to know is how you can use a polarizing filter since LCDs use polarized light. Doesn't the whole display go dark if you turn the filter the right way? Is there an LCD technology that doesn't use polarization?
05-09-2016, 05:45 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
It has a LCD pass thru (overlay) screen between the focus screen and pentaprism. The LCD has the various grid lines, electronic level, focus points etc.

What I want to know is how you can use a polarizing filter since LCDs use polarized light. Doesn't the whole display go dark if you turn the filter the right way? Is there an LCD technology that doesn't use polarization?
Good point, although you'd have thought the engineers and photographers would have tested the display out using a polarising filter and seen this problem. I'm interested to know how they would have gotten around this.

05-09-2016, 07:50 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
It has a LCD pass thru (overlay) screen between the focus screen and pentaprism. The LCD has the various grid lines, electronic level, focus points etc.

What I want to know is how you can use a polarizing filter since LCDs use polarized light. Doesn't the whole display go dark if you turn the filter the right way? Is there an LCD technology that doesn't use polarization?
It still seems strange to me that inserting the battery opens up the VF while the camera is still off. Does this mean power is being drained continuously from the battery?
05-09-2016, 07:58 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ash Quote
Good point, although you'd have thought the engineers and photographers would have tested the display out using a polarising filter and seen this problem. I'm interested to know how they would have gotten around this.
I used a polarising filter the other day and saw no problems in the viewfinder turning it all the way around.
05-09-2016, 09:56 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by JBox Quote
I used a polarising filter the other day and saw no problems in the viewfinder turning it all the way around.
You used a circular polarizer correct? Try flipping it over and rotating it while look through the viewfinder. It might be easier holding the filter over the viewfinder and looking through the filter. Or if you have a linear polarizer try that instead.

Circular polarizers are weird. They blackout other polarizing filters when viewed from one direction but not the other.

For fun look at you flat screen monitor through the circular polarizer and then flip the filter over. A linear polarizer blacks out from either side.

Fun with optics!
05-10-2016, 01:50 AM   #12
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Thanks, that overlay sounds very interesting. I think there was an article on the site here about it so I'm going to check it out.


I haven't read much feedback so far on the viewfinder other than 'its big, bright' etc...
05-10-2016, 05:39 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
You used a circular polarizer correct? Try flipping it over and rotating it while look through the viewfinder. It might be easier holding the filter over the viewfinder and looking through the filter. Or if you have a linear polarizer try that instead.

Circular polarizers are weird. They blackout other polarizing filters when viewed from one direction but not the other.

For fun look at you flat screen monitor through the circular polarizer and then flip the filter over. A linear polarizer blacks out from either side.

Fun with optics!
The other day I was using a circular polarizer. Just now I tried some quick tests with both a circular and linear polarizer, both forwards and backwards and didn't see any blackouts. Only the usual polarizer effects. Although I might have done it wrong or the effects could be subtle.
05-10-2016, 06:55 AM   #14
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Dunno. The more posts I read about the K-1 the more I'm tempted to go out and buy one now instead of waiting for firmware updates and price breaks

Here's a couple of videos that show how LCDs work. The second shows how to make a custom LCD with a symbol vs pixels, which is what I believe the LCD in the K-1 is doing. It also shows how you can flip the LCD from "negative" (black background) to positive (light blackground).
05-10-2016, 09:17 AM - 1 Like   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by DSLRnovice Quote
The 4 USER settings are great. It seems redundant to me that ISO and Exposure Compensate are also on the wheel when they are available as separate buttons on top.
The ISO buttons and being on the dial too, was something I wondered about too.
Maybe I will like one better than the other in practice.
It would have been better to have a generic "Fn" setting instead of "iso" on the dial.

We'll see I suppose.
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