Originally posted by i5_david Hey fellas,
I have two questions regarding night sky landscape photography with the K-1
1) Does the Astrotrackerfeature work in portrait mode also? (I think it does but I haven't had a chance to try it.
2) This may be just me being thick!? When I shoot a landscape at night with the milky way above a mountain or a lake or so... the sensor moves and keep the stars being "on point" but what happens to my trees, lake, mountain? Will they be blurry? Is the astrotracing made for pure sky captures in the first place? Do I need to take two exposures and fiddle them together on the computer?
Thanks, mateys this is bugging me for quite some time
Morning - I don't have the K1, but use the GPS unit on my K5IIs in astrotracking quite a bit. So, here is what I know...
1) Does the Astrotrackerfeature work in portrait mode also? (I think it does but I haven't had a chance to try it. - yes.
2a) This may be just me being thick!? When I shoot a landscape at night with the milky way above a mountain or a lake or so... the sensor moves and keep the stars being "on point" but what happens to my trees, lake, mountain? The items that are not in motion (stationary), will start to blur. I've found that the static items tend to be ok up to about a 40 second exposure. Longer than that they just get really blurry.
2b) Will they be blurry? Yes
2c) Is the astrotracing made for pure sky captures in the first place? In its purest form probably. With just sky and no landscape elements, it does become much easier.
2d) Do I need to take two exposures and fiddle them together on the computer? Yup!! If you are going to go to the trouble of shooting two different exposures, you really need to optimize each of the images for their intended use. For the landscape, since it will be at night, shoot it with a moderate ISO (200, 400, 800) and shoot several frames and stack them so that you get a real clean image. Then shoot the sky. Here is a thread that I did last year that somewhat walks through it.
After going through all of the shooting, you need to composite the two halfs (sky and land). Gimp is still only handles 8 bit images in their standard distributions. To do 16 bit images, you need to download their development set, compile and link - essentially building your executable. The other approach is to use Photoshop - which handles 16 bit images. That is what I am currently thinking about doing (actually - I should just do it and get it over with).
The other thing that I wanted to say is that - the K1 with the new 5 Axis SR unit, should solve one of the problems that the original GPS implementation. For all other bodies other than the K1, the SR is 2 axis, so there is no rotational component. If you look at the images in the above link, you will see that the center is point on, but along the extreme edges, you get a bit of star trailing. This starts with exposures longer than about 60 seconds with a 18mm focal length (crop sensor). I think that the 5 axis should fix this problem.