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05-27-2016, 11:36 PM   #1
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Noise reduction and dynamic range settings

For K1 users shooting raw, how have you set the following:

- highlight correction
- shadow correction
- slow shutter speed/long exposure NR
- high ISO NR

On? Off? Auto? Does it even matter when shooting RAW?

Thanks,
Brandon

05-27-2016, 11:53 PM   #2
Ole
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I set them all to auto. The first three affects raw files.

When shooting long exposures at night it may pay to turn slow shutter speed NR off. Otherwise you'll have to wait between shots for as lond as was the shutter speed.
05-28-2016, 12:11 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by bpv_UW Quote
For K1 users shooting raw, how have you set the following:

- highlight correction
- shadow correction
- slow shutter speed/long exposure NR
- high ISO NR

On? Off? Auto? Does it even matter when shooting RAW?

Thanks,
Brandon
Slow shutter speed NR definitely matters, but is really only beneficial for exposures lasting more than 30 seconds (hence auto is fine).

High ISO NR only applies to JPEGs.

Highlight correction will occasionally underexpose by a stop and then lift shadows. In RAW, it's equivalent to applying a -1EV exposure compensation and doing the work yourself. For the sake of convenience, it therefore doesn't hurt to leave it on.

Shadow correction simply lifts shadows and in RAW, it does not affect the data that is saved in the file. Consider leaving it off if you prefer more contrasty images.

Adam
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05-28-2016, 04:07 AM   #4
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Some good replies already. I think all current and most modern Pentax DSLRs have these settings.
QuoteOriginally posted by bpv_UW Quote
- highlight correction - shadow correction - slow shutter speed/long exposure NR - high ISO NR
- highlight correction - Off, except at certain light conditions. Have to develop a feel for it. Notice, if you enable this, you will not be able to select the lowest possible ISO (80, or 100, depending on camera), but the camera will still use it. It will use one ISO lower than what is displayed, and then brighten the image in post, while taking care not to burn the highlights. This function can be useful
- shadow correction - Off. I think this one only affects jpegs, so if you shoot raw, you are just wasting processing power on in-camera PP for the jpeg thumbnail.
- slow shutter speed/long exposure NR - On. Useful, unless you cannot afford the time between photos. Basically, if you take a 10sec photo, this NR will take another exposure after, almost as long.
- high ISO NR - Off. Only affects jpegs, doesn't matter if you shoot raw. You can turn on some minimal settings, but I wouldn't give this much thought

Other options that only affect jpegs, but can slow down the camera because they require CPU power, are distortion correction, CA correction, vignetting correction, diffraction correction (latter two have been introduced to Pentax DSLRs relatively recently). Distortion correction takes the most CPU. If you shoot jpeg, I would turn all of these off. CA correction is the only one I might keep turned on, but there is really no need.

Of the listed options, the most useful one is Slow shutter NR, and then Highlight correction. At least, if you shoot raw.

However, if you shoot Jpeg, then you need to give each of these functions careful consideration, and decide whether you need it based on the conditions in front of you. Shadow correction can be useful sometimes, but can make photo look flat other times. Similarly for all other options; pros and cons

05-28-2016, 07:29 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Na Horuk Quote
Some good replies already. I think all current and most modern Pentax DSLRs have these settings.

- highlight correction - Off, except at certain light conditions. Have to develop a feel for it. Notice, if you enable this, you will not be able to select the lowest possible ISO (80, or 100, depending on camera), but the camera will still use it. It will use one ISO lower than what is displayed, and then brighten the image in post, while taking care not to burn the highlights. This function can be useful
- shadow correction - Off. I think this one only affects jpegs, so if you shoot raw, you are just wasting processing power on in-camera PP for the jpeg thumbnail.
- slow shutter speed/long exposure NR - On. Useful, unless you cannot afford the time between photos. Basically, if you take a 10sec photo, this NR will take another exposure after, almost as long.
- high ISO NR - Off. Only affects jpegs, doesn't matter if you shoot raw. You can turn on some minimal settings, but I wouldn't give this much thought

Other options that only affect jpegs, but can slow down the camera because they require CPU power, are distortion correction, CA correction, vignetting correction, diffraction correction (latter two have been introduced to Pentax DSLRs relatively recently). Distortion correction takes the most CPU. If you shoot jpeg, I would turn all of these off. CA correction is the only one I might keep turned on, but there is really no need.

Of the listed options, the most useful one is Slow shutter NR, and then Highlight correction. At least, if you shoot raw.

However, if you shoot Jpeg, then you need to give each of these functions careful consideration, and decide whether you need it based on the conditions in front of you. Shadow correction can be useful sometimes, but can make photo look flat other times. Similarly for all other options; pros and cons
If you are doing astrophotography slow shutter speed /long exposure NR should be also OFF.
I don't have expirience with astrotracer yet but without astrotracer a lot of stars would be affected by slow shutter speed / long exposure NR.
If astrotracer perfectly aligns stars until the camera is available again for next photo than sss/le NR could be leaved ON.
05-28-2016, 08:07 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by banep Quote
If you are doing astrophotography slow shutter speed /long exposure NR should be also OFF.
Well, depends how much work you put into it. If you use astrotracer, I get the logic. But if its just a single frame exposure, then slow shutter NR is not necessarily bad (I don't think it removes many stars). But if you want perfection, you will take multiple exposures and do manual dark frame reduction in post anyway, using specialized software.
I agree, if you are doing some specialized type of photography, you need to understand these functions and know whether they will help you get what you want, or if they will get in the way.
05-28-2016, 08:34 AM   #7
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Thanks all, very helpful.
Brandon
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