[pinholecam]

K1+Pentax K28/3.5


This time, I wanted to see what happens when I add a bit of accentuation of all the wall details that has already been captured with pixelshift.
A very very light setting on NikEfex "Detail Enhancer" at a setting of "3" (slider is 0-100) does well, bringing up all the details on the wall surface itself.


Flickr compresses things even at full size so here is a full sized one on Google Drive instead :
Important! : 100% via this Google Drive view is going all the way in via the " + " and then backing out with " " - " by one.
IMGP6953-PS-1.jpg - Google Drive

[cali92rs]

Sorry if this isn't the right place to post this...but this is pixel shift with the K-3II using a 16-85mm lens (cliche shot, i know):

[pinholecam]

Sorry if this isn't the right place to post this...but this is pixel shift with the K-3II using a 16-85mm lens (cliche shot, i know):

Nice angle!

---------- Post added 02-26-2017 at 08:30 PM ----------

I'd wanted to do some pixel shift of dragonflies or butterflies, but seems like the usual spot where I can find them don't have them today, probably due to the wrong season.

So I went for some other natural stuff instead.
Found these rather large cherries littering the ground, and they made for some nice subjects with their various stages of decay.




I'll certain need to add focus stacking to make even better use of what can be captured by pixel shift.



Flickr compresses things even at full size so here is a full sized one on Google Drive instead :
Important! : 100% via this Google Drive view is going all the way in via the " + " and then backing out with " " - " by one.
IMGP7146-1.jpg - Google Drive

[Rondec]

Sorry if this isn't the right place to post this...but this is pixel shift with the K-3II using a 16-85mm lens (cliche shot, i know):

I didn't intend it to be camera limited. I just own a K-1 and not a K3 II (or a K-P).

Very nice image.

[pinholecam]

K1+Vivitar 55/2.8 macro

Re-visiting shooting pixel shift with a flash.
One flash on grid as the key light and a bicycle light on the background.


Pixel shift is possible if the shutter speed between the pixel shift is long enough to fire off a flash at each frame.
However, RT motion detection seems to mask off quite a bit of the areas.
Perhaps the slight variation in flash power within each frame is detected?

I'd have to try more in the future to compare.

Let me know what you think...

Flickr compresses things even at full size so here is a full sized one on Google Drive instead :
Important! : 100% via this Google Drive view is going all the way in via the " + " and then backing out with " " - " by one.
IMGP7171-1.jpg - Google Drive

[khoacung]

Pentax K1 FA31limited Pixel Shift

exif _IMG1653 | khoa cung | Flickr

[pinholecam]

Spent the morning making breakfast and took the chance to try out pixel shift with a flash again.

This time an easy setup that I set the exposure time to 3s per frame and just pressed the remote trigger for the flash at each frame.
(the previous shot of the German helmet, I used a Q7 in interval shooting mode to trigger the flash in sync with each pixel shift exposure of the K1)



K1+M85/2

This time, it seems that RT masks off movement properly in automatic setting (ie. does not mask anything since there is no movement).
The helmet shot was done at night in the dark with little ambient contribution except for maybe light spill from the street or other parts of the house), this one is in a room with curtains drawn.
Maybe that less consistent light spill confuses RT in auto mode or maybe its flickring from my bike light that I used for the bkgnd....
Lots to try out on this in a future attempt.


Flickr compresses things even at full size so here is a full sized one on Google Drive instead :
Important! : 100% via this Google Drive view is going all the way in via the " + " and then backing out with " " - " by one.
IMGP7180-1.jpg - Google Drive

[photoptimist]

Spent the morning making breakfast and took the chance to try out pixel shift with a flash again.

This time an easy setup that I set the exposure time to 3s per frame and just pressed the remote trigger for the flash at each frame.
(the previous shot of the German helmet, I used a Q7 in interval shooting mode to trigger the flash in sync with each pixel shift exposure of the K1)



K1+M85/2

This time, it seems that RT masks off movement properly in automatic setting (ie. does not mask anything since there is no movement).
The helmet shot was done at night in the dark with little ambient contribution except for maybe light spill from the street or other parts of the house), this one is in a room with curtains drawn.
Maybe that less consistent light spill confuses RT in auto mode or maybe its flickring from my bike light that I used for the bkgnd....
Lots to try out on this in a future attempt.


Flickr compresses things even at full size so here is a full sized one on Google Drive instead :
Important! : 100% via this Google Drive view is going all the way in via the " + " and then backing out with " " - " by one.
IMGP7180-1.jpg - Google Drive

Interesting!

Consistency of light levels is really important for PS. An earlier thread (which I can't find) had a PS picture of some plants with weird alternating row/column luminance artifacts on many of the leaves which seem to have arisen because the sun was going down and the light levels dropped slightly across the frames.

For flash, the key may be to ensure the capacitor is charged to the same level for each of the four shots. If the flash is triggered quickly four times in succession, the firing voltage will be dropping during the series and the four flash light levels may differ. Your use of a 3-second interval probably gave the flash recharge circuit time to top-up the capacitor. The longer interval would also give the xenon in the tube and the electrode surfaces in the tube a bit of time to equilibrate so that each of the four flashes occurs under the similar gas and electrode surface temperature conditions.

I'd also wonder about whether a flash that has a built-in light sensor and auto-exposure circuit might work better than one that has selectable power levels (e.g., settings of 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, etc.). As far as I can tell, the power setting circuit regulates the power going into the tube (and might only regulate current) as opposed to regulating the light coming out of the tube. In contrast, the light sensor actually measures scene illumination and shuts off the flash which might be a more accurate way of getting consistent flash-to-flash light levels. Older auto-flashes dumped the full charge of the capacitor which sucked but most flashes these days use a thyristor or IGBT to cut the flow and preserve the unused charge in the capacitor. More experiments!

P.S. Nice picture! I'm hungry now!

[PiotrKrochmal]

K1 + DFA 24-70
PixelShift -> SilkyPix 8 -> SNSHDR -> PS / NIK Silver. So complex develop

[pinholecam]

Now... this problem should present itself on pixel shifted images independent of the software used.
In this case, the good thing is that Raw Therapee allows the viewing of the mask used on the image and we can check what has been determined as using only the first image.





This is a window light shot on a windy and cloudy day, the light levels changed a lot when I did the shot, initially from bright sunlight to dull light by the time I got and setup the camera for the shot.
My first suspicion of why it happened was that the light levels changed.


Thanks to heckflosse who is on this site and part of the RT team, who gave the following information to check what went wrong and a solution.





To look over each frame of the pixel shift and check, do the following :
1. Switch to Amaze (circled orange)
2. Set profile to "Neutral" - this removes any auto brightness for the image

Now look over the image to check them for differences in light levels (the histogram can also provide a good indicator)



So in this case, there was indeed a change in light levels between frames.
Frames 1,2 were about the same and 3,4 where different from the two, but similar in exposure between themselves.
With this, I realized that it was indeed the fast moving clouds moved across the Sun that fluctuated the light levels between frames. (I had though the 4 frames would be fast enough to not have it register on the images)


Heckflosse was able to equalize the exposure of the frames and here is before/after masking results :




I'd assume the "exposure equalization" option will be available in a later build of RT. (the have daily builds AFAIK).

[rgknief60]

Consistency of light levels is really important for PS. An earlier thread (which I can't find) had a PS picture of some plants with weird alternating row/column luminance artifacts on many of the leaves which seem to have arisen because the sun was going down and the light levels dropped slightly across the frames.

That was a thread I started. You can find it here.

Literally had to hold my breath for this shot. You find out how unsteady a house is
when someone walks by in an adjacent room. Imagine what it would be with flash.

Second time in 3 or 4 months this bloomed, along with another that is a darker
shade of red. Xpost.

This is a crop (4600x4000) of the OOC JPG processed in FSIV, followed by a actual
pixel crop.


Christmas Cactus

Actual Pixel Crop...


Christmas Cactus, crop

---------- Post added 03-08-17 at 11:37 PM ----------

Raw Therapee's motion detect of above image.


Raw Therapee "motion" of Christmas Cactus

[ranchy]

Auto Setting on RT...



Full Size:
All sizes | irix 15mm F2.4 Firefly | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

[normhead]

K-1 and Tamron 90 macro
100 ISO, ƒ8, AV (1/60-1/160s)

Just when I think it might be the last one of the year, we get a -30ºC morningg in March. We usually have a day sitting out drinking beer on the porch by March 8-10th. Not this year.

My image selection was done blind, in both of these images, these images had a clear advantage over the non PS images taken at the same time without moving the tripod. Shooting the backlit ice, the added colour depth and detail was quite apparent.

[DimC]

K-1 and Tamron 90 macro
100 ISO, ƒ8, AV (1/60-1/160s)

Just when I think it might be the last one of the year, we get a -30ºC morningg in March. We usually have a day sitting out drinking beer on the porch by March 8-10th. Not this year.

My image selection was done blind, in both of these images, these images had a clear advantage over the non PS images taken at the same time without moving the tripod. Shooting the backlit ice, the added colour depth and detail was quite apparent.

I can't stop looking at all the details and figures in your shots !
Wonderful.

[normhead]

They are fascinating.... of course, this morning I had quite a variety to choose from.