[SteveD]

auto ISO vs. some set value? Lens selection and aperture? Shutter priority or something else? I am guessing Pixel shift is of no value for this except for some special effect. Thought I might setup a user memory with some quick ideas to help in the dark.

[mee]

auto ISO vs. some set value? Lens selection and aperture? Shutter priority or something else? I am guessing Pixel shift is of no value for this except for some special effect. Thought I might setup a user memory with some quick ideas to help in the dark.

lowest ISO possible, f/11 or so, 1-5seconds (experiment) shutter on tripod.

Same on K-1 as it is on K-3 outside of maybe aperture which you might have to stop down a little further. https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/172-pentax-k-3/324640-shooting-fireworks-k3.html

[pres589]

What lenses do you own? I think f8 to f11is a normal range. I'd set the ISO at 100, set the camera to Bulb exposure, and use a remote release. Normal stuff really, full frame or not.

Never used a camera with Pixel Shift but I don't think it would be of use here.

[SteveD]

My possible lens choices are K 2/28, 1.8/77, Tamron 90 Macro, DA* 4/300. Figuring it depends on how close I am able to get. More likely the outskirts of Seattle.

[interested_observer]

Here is what I have done in the past....

• Longer than a second - about 5 seconds in order to get multiple bursts.
• Low ISO for low noise - about 100, but don't be afraid to bump it up if you need to capture more light
• Somewhat based on the lens but an aperture to get good depth of field - about f8
• Lens depends on your location. If you are right there, then wide angle. If you are a distance away - then a longer focal length.

There is going to be some balancing going on, in terms of the shutter time and the aperture. You want to get a good depth of field, but you also need the light, so if you need to bump up the ISO then bump it up in stages. The location also contributes. If the location bounces a lot of light around as opposed to a very dark open area. I have also seen telephoto shots from a hill, with several fireworks demonstrations going on in different locations. It has a wonderful 3D effect.

Also, consider setting up for burst exposures, so that you can just lock the remote shutter release and take continuous images - especially at the end with the grand finally.

[npc]

Or you can try using bulb with the remote. Similar to setting a 3 or 5 sec exposure for example but you have the control to close it at the perfect moment depending on what's going on in the air...

[HudsonShooter]

there are so many way to shoot them. I love getting them out of focus,
good luck on getting them shots.

[pres589]

SteveD, how did your fireworks photography go?

[micromacro]

I've tried fireworks yesterday first time, messed up with the lens. The location I thought will be good, and took FA77 for it, was not any good. Accidentally I found another great location, but 77mm was too close to get good frames. Thinking about zoom (most likely 24-70mm).
Tripod, set interval shooting, ISO 100, 2 sec at f14. Most likely f11 and less than 2 sec would be better. Gonna try it again next year

[SteveD]

Did not make the trip. I was ready though. Thanks for the advise provided.

[Poit]

I find that shooting from a distance, ideally from a high-point, adds perspective with the surrounding landscape/cityscape. So, a 70-200mm, aperture priority, 2sec timer (or remote).

I find that shutter priority can be a little hit-and-miss, as I don't know when a particularly bright burst will occur and blow the highlights. Hence aperture priority. Some of mine at Skyfire in Canberra: