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07-05-2016, 10:40 AM   #1
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Question on Pixel-Shift

I am using Pixel-Shift, with a non-Pentax lens, so it is not coupled. Do I understand it right that I have to have some form of Timer on when I do Pixel-shift. Also, is there any way to turn off or disable time Timer Light which flashes in my fast as I try to focus?

And last, is there any way while I am trying to use Focus-Shift with a non-coupled lens to SEE in LiveView the amount of light I am getting in the frame, as I turn the wheel-dial to select exposure, other than trial and error?

07-05-2016, 12:11 PM   #2
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I believe the red light can be disabled under illumination settings in the setup menu. You don't necessarily need to use a timer if you're shooting with a remote or cable release.

As for live view, if you put the camera in M mode the display will simulate the actual exposure. This is available with A lenses or newer only.

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07-05-2016, 12:29 PM   #3
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Here are a few points:
  • Being "coupled" has nothing to do with pixel-shift. The camera will go through the sequence even if a lens is not mounted.
  • If the self-timer light is flashing, it is because the timer is counting. It may be turned off using setup (wrench) menu #2 under indicator lamps.
  • In regards to exposure preview in live view when aperture is not coupled (fully manual aperture), I suggest a little experimentation. The rules:
    • The display will always normalize brightness to the amount of light reaching the sensor. As a result, when the fully manual aperture stops down, the camera will respond with higher gain to the display.
    • The actual display brightness depends on whether the set exposure is greater or less than the metered value (so-called exposure preview). Exposure preview is driven by EV and is limited to +/- 2 EV relative to the metered exposure.
    • With a non-coupled lens, exposure preview follows exposure adjustment using EV comp. This is the case with ALL modes when the body is not controlling the aperture.
    The second point in the list is not well explained. I suggest experimenting in Av mode (auto-ISO off).
  • What is displayed for using exposure preview is an estimate of the final exposure, but only an estimate. The dynamic range of the rear LCD and live view displayed is less than the actual exposure.
I hope this helps.

Steve

Last edited by stevebrot; 07-05-2016 at 12:44 PM.
07-05-2016, 12:39 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
As for live view, if you put the camera in M mode the display will simulate the actual exposure. This is available with A lenses or newer only.
That is where things get a little sticky. Pentax supports what Nikon calls "Exposure Preview" even when a non-A lens is mounted, though only through the EV comp feature, and even then it is always relative to the last set "correct" metered exposure, meaning that an initial green button measurement should be made when using M mode.


Steve


Last edited by stevebrot; 07-05-2016 at 12:55 PM.
07-05-2016, 12:52 PM   #5
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I will check all of that out. Here is another one I can't figure out.

I have a Nikon-to-Pentax converter that I knocked the "bad" glass out of, so it no longer tries for infinity. That is fine, because I am all about close-up photography. Then I mounted an Zeiss Otus 55mm f/1.4 on the converter to try that lens out with the Pentax sensor and pixel-shift. However, it has a hot spot of light in the middle of the frame that will not go away. How do I explain this and is there anything I can do about it?
07-05-2016, 12:59 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by MichaelErlewine Quote
However, it has a hot spot of light in the middle of the frame that will not go away. How do I explain this and is there anything I can do about it?


That is strange. Is there any chance the adapter has a narrow point that is creating severe vignette?


Steve
07-05-2016, 01:07 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote


That is strange. Is there any chance the adapter has a narrow point that is creating severe vignette?


Steve
What do you mean by "a narrow point," etc.
07-05-2016, 01:41 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by MichaelErlewine Quote
What do you mean by "a narrow point," etc.
Does the frame that previously held the adapter lens impinge on the optical path. For example, the Fotodiox adapter below usually functions as a 1.4x teleconverter when assembled to the lens. As a result only the center 2/3 of the image is used. With the lens gone the frame acts as a baffle and blocks light intended for margins of the image resulting in vignette and a persistent bright center.


Originally at: https://www.fotodioxpro.com/lens-mount-adapters/nikon-f-lens-to-pentax-k-cam...t-adapter.html

Your Otus has a fat rear element that would sit only a few millimeters shy of the opening of an adapter such as that pictured above.


Steve


Last edited by stevebrot; 07-05-2016 at 01:49 PM.
07-05-2016, 02:03 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Does the frame that previously held the adapter lens impinge on the optical path. For example, the Fotodiox adapter below usually functions as a 1.4x teleconverter when assembled to the lens. As a result only the center 2/3 of the image is used. With the lens gone the frame acts as a baffle and blocks light intended for margins of the image resulting in vignette and a persistent bright center.


Originally at: https://www.fotodioxpro.com/lens-mount-adapters/nikon-f-lens-to-pentax-k-cam...t-adapter.html

Your Otus has a fat rear element that would sit only a few millimeters shy of the opening of an adapter such as that pictured above.


Steve

I have that adapter and knocked out the lousy glass, so there is nothing but a bit of extension there.
07-08-2016, 02:08 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by MichaelErlewine Quote
I will check all of that out. Here is another one I can't figure out.

I have a Nikon-to-Pentax converter that I knocked the "bad" glass out of, so it no longer tries for infinity. That is fine, because I am all about close-up photography. Then I mounted an Zeiss Otus 55mm f/1.4 on the converter to try that lens out with the Pentax sensor and pixel-shift. However, it has a hot spot of light in the middle of the frame that will not go away. How do I explain this and is there anything I can do about it?
I've had this with long exposures not covering the eyepiece. Also with a filter attached to the lens, light bouncing back onto frame off front element.
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