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07-11-2016, 07:28 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by wizofoz Quote
the micro contrast and sharpness requirements some may have
Haha yes! And that is where the difference-of-opinion wars will be fought! How many Pentaxian angels can dance in the space of a pixel?

QuoteOriginally posted by wizofoz Quote
the statement 'old glass is not usable on the 36mpx sensor'
Tell that to my Takumars! They're eagerly waiting their chance, especially since I found a built-in profile on my K-5 (the 'muted' setting) that pretty much completely kills the yellowing effect of my 50/1.4 Super Tak - I wonder if the K-1's profiles are similar.

07-11-2016, 07:52 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by pathdoc Quote
especially since I found a built-in profile on my K-5 (the 'muted' setting) that pretty much completely kills the yellowing effect of my 50/1.4 Super Tak - I wonder if the K-1's profiles are similar.
ooohhh!.. I have a cupboard full of taks and super taks. where do you want me to start testing?
07-11-2016, 09:00 AM   #18
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absolutely
07-11-2016, 09:20 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by wizofoz Quote
where do you want me to start testing?
Open your cupboard in pitch darkness. Grab the lens which glows the brightest , and has the deepest, richest yellows against a white background when the lights come back on.

First sequence, K-5, bright profile then muted profile, green button mode. Second sequence, K-1, crop mode (to maintain closest possible equivalence of image), same tripod and same aperture, using whichever shutter speed the K-5 selected, same profiles again if it has them.

Currently my 50/1.4 Super Tak is my yellowest Tak; the 50/1.4 Super-Multi-Coated (still with the classical-style metal focusing collar) that I received only today, and which was bought specifically for my Spotmatic F, has but a trace. Now that I know a thing or two about scanning negatives that I previously did not, I am wondering whether I can make the taint go away on colour film.

07-11-2016, 10:39 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by pathdoc Quote
.... Now that I know a thing or two about scanning negatives that I previously did not, I am wondering whether I can make the taint go away on colour film.
Are you scanning the negatives?

I'm slowly scanning my old film pictures, mostly slides, and I've found that the WB correction built into Photoshop / gimp fixes all kinds of old issues.
07-11-2016, 11:24 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by reh321 Quote
Are you scanning the negatives?
I have a workflow set up for digitising black and white negs with a slide copier, flash and macro lens which ensures a degree of consistency from roll to roll, and I've accumulated some experience with tweaking them in Raw Therapee. I have not yet had an opportunity to apply the process to colour negatives; I'm hoping to find time to do that sometime this week.
07-11-2016, 11:31 AM   #22
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There is software especially for scanning negatives and slides. It's called Silverfast.
07-11-2016, 12:20 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by pathdoc Quote
I have a workflow set up for digitising black and white negs with a slide copier, flash and macro lens which ensures a degree of consistency from roll to roll, and I've accumulated some experience with tweaking them in Raw Therapee. I have not yet had an opportunity to apply the process to colour negatives; I'm hoping to find time to do that sometime this week.
You must have really perfect media.
I'm in the process of converting 40+ years of slides and negatives to digital.
I started off with a Epson flatbed scanner, but upon examination at 100% I discovered issues, sometimes many issues (*), with every image, so I spent many hours fixing my images using gimp / Photoshop.
I bought a Plustek scanner {controlled via Silverlight}, which did somewhat better, but by far my best results come from an elderly Nikon scanner I bought on eBay from a guy who refurbishes them. This scanner gets 16 values for each pixel {obtained by looking at the pixel from various angles, so parallax helps in distinguishing emulsion from other surface}. I have a hard time believing that a straight photo copy would work well ... but I've heard from others who do that.


(*) issues, in this case, includes scratches, tiny dust particles stuck to the media {I wipe clean before scanning}, perhaps some fungus, ...

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