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08-06-2016, 07:18 AM   #1
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K-1 Unusable at 1/200 using Studio Strobes???

1/200 isn't too usable to me using my Alien Bees B1600. There is some varying banding on the top of the frame, but it appears to go away at shutter speeds faster than 1/200. I'm not sure, I could be doing something wrong or if there's something wrong with my shutter.



Shot in portrait orientation (black banding on the left)



Last edited by dcpropilot; 08-06-2016 at 07:28 AM.
08-06-2016, 07:35 AM   #2
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How are you firing it? Time delay in triggering the flashes may be doing this to you. I heard something on someone's YT channel the other day about this happening with remote radio or optical triggers; at maximum sync speed, tiny fractions of a second make the difference.

Have you an on-camera flash you can mount and fire as a test?
08-06-2016, 07:51 AM - 1 Like   #3
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Cheap flash triggers will do that.
08-06-2016, 07:58 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wheatfield Quote
Cheap flash triggers will do that.
There are good ones that are cheap.

But crappy flash triggers will do that, yes.

08-06-2016, 08:36 AM   #5
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Need more detail, how are you triggering it? What hardware?
08-06-2016, 09:56 AM   #6
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I have been using 1/200 with my Cactus triggers with no issues.

What are you using to trigger?
08-06-2016, 10:27 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by beholder3 Quote
There are good ones that are cheap.

But crappy flash triggers will do that, yes.
Cheap | Definition of Cheap by Merriam-Webster

Full Definition of cheap
3a : of inferior quality or worth : tawdry, sleazy <cheap workmanship>
08-06-2016, 11:22 AM   #8
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Does the k1 shutter go bottom to top or top to bottom. I use to get banding on the bottom with my k100 at max synch with low batteries. This is at the top so its either a different shutter motion or different problem.

08-07-2016, 08:29 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by swanlefitte Quote
Does the k1 shutter go bottom to top or top to bottom.
According to my observations, it goes from bottom to top, i.e., the reverse direction that previous Pentax DSLR shutters used. The prior "bottom border" now becomes a "top border" and indicates that the light hits the sensor a bit too late. It seems likely that the radio trigger used, isn't quick enough, although 1/200s is not really a challenge.

I don't have that problem with my Cactus V6II and my K-1 even at much higher shutter speeds. In other words, it is not the K-1 that is at fault here.

@dcpropilot: Are you still using Yongnuo triggers? They don't really support Pentax and some of their models require a wake up to work well beyond 1/160s. IIRC, the respective model was quite old though.

Last edited by Class A; 08-07-2016 at 04:46 PM.
08-07-2016, 10:32 AM   #10
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Sometimes I got the same problem with my wireless triggers at K3. Then I have to put in new batteries, normally to the receiver only.
08-07-2016, 02:25 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
According to my observations, it goes from bottom to top, i.e., the reverse direction that previous Pentax DSLR shutters used. The prior "bottom border" now becomes a "top border" and indicates that the light hits the sensor a bit too late. It seems likely that the radio trigger used, isn't quick enough, although 1/200s is not really a challenge.

I don't have that problem with my Cactus V6II and my K-1 even at much higher shutter speeds. In other words, it is not the K-1 that is at fault here.

@dcpropilot: Are you still using Yongnuo triggers? They don't really support Pentax and some of their models require a wake up to work well beyond 1/160s. IRRC, the respective model was quite old though.
I'm using the Yongnuo RF-605 receiver and the YN560-TX transmitter. I need to do some more experimenting.
08-07-2016, 02:50 PM   #12
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Like I said, drop a flash on the hotshoe, take a picture, see what happens. This will diagnose or rule out one major problem immediately.
08-07-2016, 04:43 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcpropilot Quote
I'm using the Yongnuo RF-605 receiver and the YN560-TX transmitter. I need to do some more experimenting.
The YN560-TX should be fast enough, but perhaps the mode (RF602 or RF603) is causing problems, or you have one of the units from a batch that Yongnuo announced to be incapable of 1/200s synchronisation:

YN560-TX for Canon serial number range: 19011340-19011927.

YN560-TX for Nikon serial number range: 19511450-19511819.

BTW, in your first post you write the problem disappears at "faster" shutter speeds. You meant "slower" right? The YN560-TX does not support shutter speeds faster than the sync-speed.
08-07-2016, 05:52 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
The YN560-TX should be fast enough, but perhaps the mode (RF602 or RF603) is causing problems, or you have one of the units from a batch that Yongnuo announced to be incapable of 1/200s synchronisation:

YN560-TX for Canon serial number range: 19011340-19011927.

YN560-TX for Nikon serial number range: 19511450-19511819.

BTW, in your first post you write the problem disappears at "faster" shutter speeds. You meant "slower" right? The YN560-TX does not support shutter speeds faster than the sync-speed.
Yes, slower shutter speeds! Oops. I'll have to check my YN560-TX serial #. I think at some point I'll be upgrading to the Buff cyber sync /cyber commander. Not sure if I can trigger the my Yongnuo flashes (as a kicker/hair light supplemental to the Alien Bees strobes) with the cyber commander though.
08-08-2016, 04:51 PM   #15
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I've got the Yongnuo 560TX with a set of 560 Mark III, and so far have had no issues with the K-1 and banding.
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