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08-22-2016, 10:03 AM - 2 Likes   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by redpit Quote
What I'm a bit concerned about is that threads like this are created to answer to those unbelievers or people who make various statements about the K-1 AF capabilities many of whom without even owning or having used one (according to their words).
You are very right.
I fully understand your concern and made the same decision before: The sole burden of responsibility is on the people unable to use the equipment to prove their claims of "it can't be done", not on the many of us who can do.
I would never invest any significant time to set up a synthetic test for them.

In this case here I just had the files still lying on my disk waiting for deletion and so the act of applying one preset-button press, exporting it with an export preset and uploading was a minor effort, so I thought I'd give these non-keeper files a temporary raison d’être.

The K-1 can be a fun thing to use.




08-22-2016, 11:06 AM - 1 Like   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by wizofoz Quote
but wait, did you set your camera on a tripod and have the motoXers go out of the AF area? Surely this is not a good test. Actually using your skills to track the subject - how absurd!

/end sarc
A test is not a test unless the aperture is f/2.8. Otherwise the plane of focus is far to deep to actually test the AF.



brap
08-22-2016, 04:54 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by beholder3 Quote
First and foremost:
Think about what you want to focus on. It should make sense. It should have some good contrast. And it should ne be hidden behind some other things too much. I settled for chest of the driver or starter number plate.
Then keep pointing the combo at this as good as you can.

A monopod helped with some shots, but is no use for others like jumps.

Second:
I made good experiences pressing the AF-on button on the lens with my left thumb as soon as I decided on a target subject, so the lens could start computing the AF.C. And 0,5-1 seconds later when the driver was where it got interesting, push the shutter button to fire.

Other:
  1. AF.C
  2. Sel-1 or Sel-9 (since the head of the driver is on the upper end I used the topmost AF point in the center column). If I had use a F2.8 lens like the 70-200, I'd used only one step upwards as only those middle three sensor are F2.8 enabled.
  3. Hold:Low
  4. AF.C priority 1st image: auto
  5. AF.C priority other images: auto
  6. JPG L*
  7. I explicitly turned off absolutely all other JPG corrections or automatisms.
  8. Used TAv mode all the time to set the aperture to open and set a certain time. Shutter times I experimented with anything between 1/320 and 1/4000 but mostly was stuck with very short ones due to the light and not having brought some NDs or at least a CPL. Generally I do not like to completely freeze dynamic subjects, so I prefer some blur on the wheels and with the dirt.
Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try on my k-3II. I know it's not at par with the k-1 but it would be worth looking into.
08-22-2016, 06:08 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by beholder3 Quote
First and foremost:
Think about what you want to focus on. It should make sense. It should have some good contrast. And it should ne be hidden behind some other things too much. I settled for chest of the driver or starter number plate.
Then keep pointing the combo at this as good as you can.

A monopod helped with some shots, but is no use for others like jumps.

Second:
I made good experiences pressing the AF-on button on the lens with my left thumb as soon as I decided on a target subject, so the lens could start computing the AF.C. And 0,5-1 seconds later when the driver was where it got interesting, push the shutter button to fire.

Other:
  1. AF.C
  2. Sel-1 or Sel-9 (since the head of the driver is on the upper end I used the topmost AF point in the center column). If I had use a F2.8 lens like the 70-200, I'd used only one step upwards as only those middle three sensor are F2.8 enabled.
  3. Hold:Low
  4. AF.C priority 1st image: auto
  5. AF.C priority other images: auto
  6. JPG L*
  7. I explicitly turned off absolutely all other JPG corrections or automatisms.
  8. Used TAv mode all the time to set the aperture to open and set a certain time. Shutter times I experimented with anything between 1/320 and 1/4000 but mostly was stuck with very short ones due to the light and not having brought some NDs or at least a CPL. Generally I do not like to completely freeze dynamic subjects, so I prefer some blur on the wheels and with the dirt.
Seems like good technique here and ... did you have the SR ON or OFF ?
Just curious.

08-22-2016, 09:46 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by wizofoz Quote
but wait, did you set your camera on a tripod and have the motoXers go out of the AF area? Surely this is not a good test. Actually using your skills to track the subject - how absurd!

/end sarc

Haha, that's right! And to be a "standard" test it's really important that you don't test all other cameras the same way. Otherwise it wouldn't be "standard".
08-23-2016, 12:24 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by monochrome Quote
A test is not a test unless the aperture is f/2.8. Otherwise the plane of focus is far to deep to actually test the AF.



:brap:
Is that supposed to be sarcasm?
Do you calibrate your lenses stopped down? Of course the lens should be wide open if you’re testing the AF.
08-23-2016, 01:05 AM - 1 Like   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by jpzk Quote
Seems like good technique here and ... did you have the SR ON or OFF ?
Just curious.
SR was set to OFF. As I was swinging around the camera all the time it would not help and I wanted to switch everything off that would use valuable computing power/time.
I don't know at all if it helped. The whole event was about trying and learning after all.
08-23-2016, 01:27 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by beholder3 Quote
SR was set to OFF. As I was swinging around the camera all the time it would not help and I wanted to switch everything off that would use valuable computing power/time.
I don't know at all if it helped. The whole event was about trying and learning after all.
I'm still learning too* but I agree with SR turned OFF for shutter speeds (SS) 1/500 and higher. Between SS 1/160 and 1/400 SR on and off gives more or less the same results (% of keepers) on moving targets. Panning with and without SR also gives various results and mainly depends on your technique but more or less the same % of keepers. On stationary subjects SR is better to turned on even on higher SS. That's my experience up to now... and we are talking about the DFA 150-450 not other lenses.

*I'm talking mainly about shooting airshows, I haven't got any experience on shooting motocross or car racing yet.

PS: Pay attention not to try to shoot slowly moving bicycles... You will be dissapointed


Last edited by redpit; 08-23-2016 at 01:34 AM.
08-23-2016, 03:33 AM - 1 Like   #24
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As one of the whiners about Pentax AF.C I had a look at several of the posted sequences and I have to say I am very impressed. The riders are consistently sharp and in focus.

Now if I could only get my K3 to do this ...
08-23-2016, 04:12 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by FantasticMrFox Quote
As one of the whiners about Pentax AF.C
Yes, you were, FMF.

In the interests of being fair and balanced will you now go back to DPR and whine about Alex Cooke's methodology?

No, I didn't think so. 😀

But you did it to us Pentax AF-C shooters.
08-23-2016, 04:23 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by monochrome Quote
A test is not a test unless the aperture is f/2.8. Otherwise the plane of focus is far to deep to actually test the AF.



brap
QuoteOriginally posted by Gimbal Quote
Is that supposed to be sarcasm?
Do you calibrate your lenses stopped down? Of course the lens should be wide open if you’re testing the AF.
On a tripod.
08-23-2016, 04:39 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by redpit Quote
I'm still learning too* but I agree with SR turned OFF for shutter speeds (SS) 1/500 and higher. Between SS 1/160 and 1/400 SR on and off gives more or less the same results (% of keepers) on moving targets. Panning with and without SR also gives various results and mainly depends on your technique but more or less the same % of keepers. On stationary subjects SR is better to turned on even on higher SS. That's my experience up to now... and we are talking about the DFA 150-450 not other lenses.
Agreed.

Since my panning tries were done capturing jumping drivers, SR could not help (I think), as the subject moved in a curve, not a straight line.

---------- Post added 23rd Aug 2016 at 13:46 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by FantasticMrFox Quote
As one of the whiners about Pentax AF.C I had a look at several of the posted sequences and I have to say I am very impressed. The riders are consistently sharp and in focus.
Thanks for your feedback. Admitting that lifts you over the level of others who only complain and never step even a tiny bit away from their prejudices and predefined "truths". Discussion can only exist where people are open to changing their views.

Last edited by beholder3; 08-23-2016 at 04:48 AM.
08-23-2016, 05:01 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by beholder3 Quote
Agreed.

Since my panning tries were done capturing jumping drivers, SR could not help (I think), as the subject moved in a curve, not a straight line.
I copy from the Ricoh official page here: K-1 | Ricoh Imaging

"Even when taking a panning shot, this system automatically detects the direction of the camera’s movement, and efficiently controls the SR unit to always produce the best image possible."

That made me trying both SR on and off panning shooting to conclude what works best for me. I am more confused than before after shooting two events

What I can verify though is that K-1 SR surely allows for some perfect panning shots when K-5IIs SR didn't. I don't know if it detects the horizontal panning movement and works in vertical stabilization mode only and I don't know if it can detect panning movement when handholding the camera (because slight vertical shaking-movement is inevitable).
08-23-2016, 05:16 AM   #29
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I think SR will be fine when panning say a car on a street passing by, because that is "just" horizontally.
The IS modes on lenses work just that way. They allow panning strictly horizontally on their special modes.
08-23-2016, 07:08 AM - 1 Like   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Yes, you were, FMF.

In the interests of being fair and balanced will you now go back to DPR and whine about Alex Cooke's methodology?

No, I didn't think so. 😀

But you did it to us Pentax AF-C shooters.
In my defence, I never claimed with absolute certainty the K-1 can't do it. I said that the K3 cannot do it (and I still assume it can't, because in contrast to the K-1 I actually own the K3) and that because the AF.C behaviour DPR reported in the K-1 closely mirrors that of the K3, I assumed they are right.

And because I still really want my K3 do be able to do it I am still receptive to people doing the same with the K3 Beholder did with the K-1, i.e. demonstrate the K3 can do it and show me how to do it.
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