Film & Slide copying w/ K-1

**Erictator** · 08-27-2016, 06:20 AM

Time to resurrect this old question. In the past I remember seeing threads about using a DSLR to copy, but at the time people were put off by the crop factor, etc.

Welcome the K-1 !

OK, now that we have 36 glorious Pixel Shifted megapixels, I think it is worth re-visiting this idea. Anyone try it yet? Have samples? What is your rig?

I grabbed a Pentax slide/film copy attachment so far, but still need to snag a K mount bellows. What else will I need? I have a Vivitar 100mm macro... it's kinda large... have lots of other small MF primes, non macro, but the bellows allows close focus, no?

Lastly, I have read that flash makes a more constant light source? I have remote hot shoe cable for my handle bar bracket, so I think I've got that covered...

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance,
Eric

Not a Number · 08-27-2016, 07:01 AM

The slide copier and bellows are designed for a 50 to 55mm lens. You can use any of the manual focus prime lenses. I'm not sure about the autofocus 50mm primes. If you don't have a 50mm macro one of the f/1.7 lenses are recommended.

The bellows and copier rails are not long enough for a 100mm lens.

Flash is viable as a light source although too much contrast may be a problem.

**Erictator** · 08-27-2016, 07:15 AM

Originally posted by Not a Number

The slide copier and bellows are designed for a 50 to 55mm lens. You can use any of the manual focus prime lenses. I'm not sure about the autofocus 50mm primes. If you don't have a 50mm macro one of the f/1.7 lenses are recommended.

The bellows and copier rails are not long enough for a 100mm lens.

Flash is viable as a light source although too much contrast may be a problem.

OK, I have a Pentax SMC A 50mm f 1.7, so that takes care of that.

I note that some bellows have a hole to insert a rod for the attachment. My copier didn't come with the rod, but that should be easy enough to replicate from the hardware store... Also note there are some knock-off bellows, some have the holder for the rod, others don't. I did note the M42 bellows are found plentiful and cheap, but would require the K adapter, and this thing is going to be comprised of enough pieces as it is, not sure I want more parts, and leaky bellows that are so old?

In addition to flash, I do have some constant light sources, like a light table, also have LED lights like used with a photo-tent for small product photo's, and of course some large modeling lights with flash umbrellas, but I hate to dig those out for a small setup like this unless I really need to?

Any other thoughts? Software etc? I have Photoshop 15, so I should be able to use the negative filter to flip negs, as well as just shoot slides, etc. Topaz denoise and other filters for dust etc.

I don't have a TON of stuff to copy, but there is a fair bit I would like to try a hand at and cherry pick some out of my stash.

Was hoping I wasn't the pioneer on this one, maybe others will reply, it is early yet and I just posted this a little while ago.

Thanks again,
Eric

Medex · 08-27-2016, 07:46 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Erictator

Time to resurrect this old question. In the past I remember seeing threads about using a DSLR to copy, but at the time people were put off by the crop factor, etc.

Welcome the K-1 !

OK, now that we have 36 glorious Pixel Shifted megapixels, I think it is worth re-visiting this idea. Anyone try it yet? Have samples? What is your rig?

I grabbed a Pentax slide/film copy attachment so far, but still need to snag a K mount bellows. What else will I need? I have a Vivitar 100mm macro... it's kinda large... have lots of other small MF primes, non macro, but the bellows allows close focus, no?

Lastly, I have read that flash makes a more constant light source? I have remote hot shoe cable for my handle bar bracket, so I think I've got that covered...

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance,
Eric

Here is the link. Sorry that the original language is lithuanian but you will understand because there are samples.
Perfotografuotas negatyvas
I use pentax k1, pentax fa100 macro, DIY film holder (20 euro), LED light 6W, pixel shift resolution mode.
Be pavadinimo

**UncleVanya** · 08-27-2016, 07:52 AM

M42 bellows are often in great shape.

Not a Number · 08-27-2016, 08:02 AM - **1 Like**

The rail/rod for the slide copier has a foot with thumbscrew on it. You can find copies of the manual online to see how it is designed the photos in the database don't really show that part.

I have the Auto Bellows (M42) and Auto Bellows-A (K-mount). From the photos the slide copier appears nearly identical. I have the slide copier for the Bellows-A but not the M42 bellows. The thread for the thumb screw seems slightly different so I have not mounted the A slide copier on the M42 bellows.

My M42 bellows looks practically new.

Minor leaks in bellows are easily fixed with black RTv silicone.

You can try the flash and see if the contrast is acceptable.

Software-wise DNG files should work with most RAW processors. When scanning negatives you need to deal with the color mask of the negative film stock.

**Erictator** · 08-27-2016, 08:11 AM

Originally posted by Medex

Here is the link. Sorry that the original language is lithuanian but you will understand because there are samples.
Perfotografuotas negatyvas
I use pentax k1, pentax fa100 macro, DIY film holder (20 euro), LED light 6W, pixel shift resolution mode.
Be pavadinimo

Thanks! That is helpful to know that even a DIY rig can get decent results. I think I will still try and do the bellows rig with my copier attached first, since I already have the copier half. The LED lights seem to work well. Good to know that too.
Thanks for the links!
Eric

---------- Post added 08-27-16 at 11:13 AM ----------

Originally posted by Not a Number

The rail/rod for the slide copier has a foot with thumbscrew on it. You can find copies of the manual online to see how it is designed the photos in the database don't really show that part.

I have the Auto Bellows (M42) and Auto Bellows-A (K-mount). From the photos the slide copier appears nearly identical. I have the slide copier for the Bellows-A but not the M42 bellows. The thread for the thumb screw seems slightly different so I have not mounted the A slide copier on the M42 bellows.

My M42 bellows looks practically new.

Minor leaks in bellows are easily fixed with black RTv silicone.

You can try the flash and see if the contrast is acceptable.

Software-wise DNG files should work with most RAW processors. When scanning negatives you need to deal with the color mask of the negative film stock.

Ahh, got it. Thanks, will see what I can come up with.
Eric

**UncleVanya** · 08-27-2016, 08:17 AM

If you use flash make sure to diffuse it before it hits the slide copier for the best most uniform lighting.

Medex · 08-27-2016, 10:03 AM

Originally posted by Erictator

Thanks! That is helpful to know that even a DIY rig can get decent results. I think I will still try and do the bellows rig with my copier attached first, since I already have the copier half. The LED lights seem to work well. Good to know that too.
Thanks for the links!
Eric

---------- Post added 08-27-16 at 11:13 AM ----------

Ahh, got it. Thanks, will see what I can come up with.
Eric

By the way FA100 macro lens is very usefull for film scanning because when the barrel is extended at maximum the entire film frame is encompassed ideally.

**Erictator** · 08-27-2016, 10:07 AM

Originally posted by dcshooter

In order to use the K-1 with the bellows, you will need a short extension tube, as the prism housing interferes with the unit.

Now that right there is a very useful thing to know! I had actually wondered about that at one point, got distracted and didn't think about it again.

Any ideas on what size tube I should grab? 20mm 30mm 50mm, etc?

Thanks!
Eric

**UncleVanya** · 08-27-2016, 12:35 PM

Originally posted by Erictator

Now that right there is a very useful thing to know! I had actually wondered about that at one point, got distracted and didn't think about it again.

Any ideas on what size tube I should grab? 20mm 30mm 50mm, etc?

Thanks!
Eric

I use around a 25mm tune on my m42 bellows if I recall correctly.

**David** · 08-27-2016, 03:21 PM

Yes it works with a 50mm standard or Macro lens. You need to add a 12 mm extension to the front of the bellows to connect to the K-1. You can modify the cable release by using some heat shrink tubing and a small button in line press switch to convert the release from mechanical to electrical to operate the K-1. The choice of lens is also governed by how much magnification you want. For extreme macro I use a Tamron 90mm macro lens with up to 27cm of extension. Photographing flowers at this magnification pixel shift is of no use as nature is too fuzzy to gain a pixel shift sharp image, or so I have found.

David

Originally posted by dcshooter

In order to use the K-1 with the bellows, you will need a short extension tube, as the prism housing interferes with the unit.

**Erictator** · 08-27-2016, 07:13 PM

Originally posted by David

Yes it works with a 50mm standard or Macro lens. You need to add a 12 mm extension to the front of the bellows to connect to the K-1. You can modify the cable release by using some heat shrink tubing and a small button in line press switch to convert the release from mechanical to electrical to operate the K-1. The choice of lens is also governed by how much magnification you want. For extreme macro I use a Tamron 90mm macro lens with up to 27cm of extension. Photographing flowers at this magnification pixel shift is of no use as nature is too fuzzy to gain a pixel shift sharp image, or so I have found.

David

Ok, I am going to show my ignorance here with another question... Why do I need a cable release? Can't I use my wireless remote, or tethered cell phone or Ipad app? Or the built in 2 second self timer? And while I am showing my ignorance, why do I see some listed with a dual cable release? What else needs releasing?

Thanks as always,
Eric

**UncleVanya** · 08-27-2016, 09:42 PM

Originally posted by Erictator

Ok, I am going to show my ignorance here with another question... Why do I need a cable release? Can't I use my wireless remote, or tethered cell phone or Ipad app? Or the built in 2 second self timer? And while I am showing my ignorance, why do I see some listed with a dual cable release? What else needs releasing?

Thanks as always,
Eric

The cable release was for film cameras that used a mechanical release. It also operates a stop down mechanism in the bellows which allows you to focus wide open then stop the aperture down as you make the shot. Sadly that type of cable release doesn't work with dslrs.

Not a Number · 08-29-2016, 06:47 AM

A mechanical cable release is handy. It can just be a standard (single) cable. If you have the Auto Bellow (M42) or Auto Bellows-K/M/A when used with an auto lens of the appropriate mount (m42 for m42, K-mount for K-mount) you can focus/compose wide open and then stop the lens down with the cable. The cable socket on the Auto Bellows is also a button that you can press and lock by twisting it so you can still stop down the lens without a cable. The advantage of using a cable is that you don't have to touch the lens or button to stop down thus avoiding possibly jarring or moving the lens/bellows.

I have a nice vitage Minolta cable release that has a locking collar around the button which makes one handed operation a snap. The more common thumbscrew lock is a little more clumsy to operate with one-hand.

You can use the dual cable release with a single connection to the bellows only.

If you are using available lighting I recommend you meter wide open and calculate the EV shift for the appropriate shutter speed at the f-stop you will be shooting at. There may not be enough light with the lens stopped down to get a meter reading.

08-27-2016, 06:20 AM	#1
Erictator Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2011 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,343	Film & Slide copying w/ K-1 Time to resurrect this old question. In the past I remember seeing threads about using a DSLR to copy, but at the time people were put off by the crop factor, etc. Welcome the K-1 ! OK, now that we have 36 glorious Pixel Shifted megapixels, I think it is worth re-visiting this idea. Anyone try it yet? Have samples? What is your rig? I grabbed a Pentax slide/film copy attachment so far, but still need to snag a K mount bellows. What else will I need? I have a Vivitar 100mm macro... it's kinda large... have lots of other small MF primes, non macro, but the bellows allows close focus, no? Lastly, I have read that flash makes a more constant light source? I have remote hot shoe cable for my handle bar bracket, so I think I've got that covered... Thoughts? Thanks in advance, Eric

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08-27-2016, 07:01 AM	#2
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,525	The slide copier and bellows are designed for a 50 to 55mm lens. You can use any of the manual focus prime lenses. I'm not sure about the autofocus 50mm primes. If you don't have a 50mm macro one of the f/1.7 lenses are recommended. The bellows and copier rails are not long enough for a 100mm lens. Flash is viable as a light source although too much contrast may be a problem.

08-27-2016, 07:15 AM	#3
Erictator Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2011 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,343 Original Poster	Originally posted by Not a Number The slide copier and bellows are designed for a 50 to 55mm lens. You can use any of the manual focus prime lenses. I'm not sure about the autofocus 50mm primes. If you don't have a 50mm macro one of the f/1.7 lenses are recommended. The bellows and copier rails are not long enough for a 100mm lens. Flash is viable as a light source although too much contrast may be a problem. OK, I have a Pentax SMC A 50mm f 1.7, so that takes care of that. I note that some bellows have a hole to insert a rod for the attachment. My copier didn't come with the rod, but that should be easy enough to replicate from the hardware store... Also note there are some knock-off bellows, some have the holder for the rod, others don't. I did note the M42 bellows are found plentiful and cheap, but would require the K adapter, and this thing is going to be comprised of enough pieces as it is, not sure I want more parts, and leaky bellows that are so old? In addition to flash, I do have some constant light sources, like a light table, also have LED lights like used with a photo-tent for small product photo's, and of course some large modeling lights with flash umbrellas, but I hate to dig those out for a small setup like this unless I really need to? Any other thoughts? Software etc? I have Photoshop 15, so I should be able to use the negative filter to flip negs, as well as just shoot slides, etc. Topaz denoise and other filters for dust etc. I don't have a TON of stuff to copy, but there is a fair bit I would like to try a hand at and cherry pick some out of my stash. Was hoping I wasn't the pioneer on this one, maybe others will reply, it is early yet and I just posted this a little while ago. Thanks again, Eric

08-27-2016, 07:46 AM - 1 Like	#4
Medex Pentaxian Join Date: May 2013 Location: Vilnius Posts: 1,020	Originally posted by Erictator Time to resurrect this old question. In the past I remember seeing threads about using a DSLR to copy, but at the time people were put off by the crop factor, etc. Welcome the K-1 ! OK, now that we have 36 glorious Pixel Shifted megapixels, I think it is worth re-visiting this idea. Anyone try it yet? Have samples? What is your rig? I grabbed a Pentax slide/film copy attachment so far, but still need to snag a K mount bellows. What else will I need? I have a Vivitar 100mm macro... it's kinda large... have lots of other small MF primes, non macro, but the bellows allows close focus, no? Lastly, I have read that flash makes a more constant light source? I have remote hot shoe cable for my handle bar bracket, so I think I've got that covered... Thoughts? Thanks in advance, Eric Here is the link. Sorry that the original language is lithuanian but you will understand because there are samples. Perfotografuotas negatyvas I use pentax k1, pentax fa100 macro, DIY film holder (20 euro), LED light 6W, pixel shift resolution mode. Be pavadinimo

08-27-2016, 07:52 AM	#5
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,385	M42 bellows are often in great shape.

08-27-2016, 08:02 AM - 1 Like	#6
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,525	The rail/rod for the slide copier has a foot with thumbscrew on it. You can find copies of the manual online to see how it is designed the photos in the database don't really show that part. I have the Auto Bellows (M42) and Auto Bellows-A (K-mount). From the photos the slide copier appears nearly identical. I have the slide copier for the Bellows-A but not the M42 bellows. The thread for the thumb screw seems slightly different so I have not mounted the A slide copier on the M42 bellows. My M42 bellows looks practically new. Minor leaks in bellows are easily fixed with black RTv silicone. You can try the flash and see if the contrast is acceptable. Software-wise DNG files should work with most RAW processors. When scanning negatives you need to deal with the color mask of the negative film stock.

08-27-2016, 08:11 AM	#7
Erictator Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2011 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,343 Original Poster	Originally posted by Medex Here is the link. Sorry that the original language is lithuanian but you will understand because there are samples. Perfotografuotas negatyvas I use pentax k1, pentax fa100 macro, DIY film holder (20 euro), LED light 6W, pixel shift resolution mode. Be pavadinimo Thanks! That is helpful to know that even a DIY rig can get decent results. I think I will still try and do the bellows rig with my copier attached first, since I already have the copier half. The LED lights seem to work well. Good to know that too. Thanks for the links! Eric ---------- Post added 08-27-16 at 11:13 AM ---------- Originally posted by Not a Number The rail/rod for the slide copier has a foot with thumbscrew on it. You can find copies of the manual online to see how it is designed the photos in the database don't really show that part. I have the Auto Bellows (M42) and Auto Bellows-A (K-mount). From the photos the slide copier appears nearly identical. I have the slide copier for the Bellows-A but not the M42 bellows. The thread for the thumb screw seems slightly different so I have not mounted the A slide copier on the M42 bellows. My M42 bellows looks practically new. Minor leaks in bellows are easily fixed with black RTv silicone. You can try the flash and see if the contrast is acceptable. Software-wise DNG files should work with most RAW processors. When scanning negatives you need to deal with the color mask of the negative film stock. Ahh, got it. Thanks, will see what I can come up with. Eric

08-27-2016, 08:17 AM	#8
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,385	If you use flash make sure to diffuse it before it hits the slide copier for the best most uniform lighting.

08-27-2016, 10:03 AM	#9
Medex Pentaxian Join Date: May 2013 Location: Vilnius Posts: 1,020	Originally posted by Erictator Thanks! That is helpful to know that even a DIY rig can get decent results. I think I will still try and do the bellows rig with my copier attached first, since I already have the copier half. The LED lights seem to work well. Good to know that too. Thanks for the links! Eric ---------- Post added 08-27-16 at 11:13 AM ---------- Ahh, got it. Thanks, will see what I can come up with. Eric By the way FA100 macro lens is very usefull for film scanning because when the barrel is extended at maximum the entire film frame is encompassed ideally.

08-27-2016, 10:07 AM	#10
Erictator Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2011 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,343 Original Poster	Originally posted by dcshooter In order to use the K-1 with the bellows, you will need a short extension tube, as the prism housing interferes with the unit. Now that right there is a very useful thing to know! I had actually wondered about that at one point, got distracted and didn't think about it again. Any ideas on what size tube I should grab? 20mm 30mm 50mm, etc? Thanks! Eric

08-27-2016, 12:35 PM	#11
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,385	Originally posted by Erictator Now that right there is a very useful thing to know! I had actually wondered about that at one point, got distracted and didn't think about it again. Any ideas on what size tube I should grab? 20mm 30mm 50mm, etc? Thanks! Eric I use around a 25mm tune on my m42 bellows if I recall correctly.

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08-27-2016, 03:21 PM	#12
David Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Sandy Bay, Tasmania, Australia Photos: Albums Posts: 347	Yes it works with a 50mm standard or Macro lens. You need to add a 12 mm extension to the front of the bellows to connect to the K-1. You can modify the cable release by using some heat shrink tubing and a small button in line press switch to convert the release from mechanical to electrical to operate the K-1. The choice of lens is also governed by how much magnification you want. For extreme macro I use a Tamron 90mm macro lens with up to 27cm of extension. Photographing flowers at this magnification pixel shift is of no use as nature is too fuzzy to gain a pixel shift sharp image, or so I have found. David Originally posted by dcshooter In order to use the K-1 with the bellows, you will need a short extension tube, as the prism housing interferes with the unit.

08-27-2016, 07:13 PM	#13
Erictator Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2011 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,343 Original Poster	Originally posted by David Yes it works with a 50mm standard or Macro lens. You need to add a 12 mm extension to the front of the bellows to connect to the K-1. You can modify the cable release by using some heat shrink tubing and a small button in line press switch to convert the release from mechanical to electrical to operate the K-1. The choice of lens is also governed by how much magnification you want. For extreme macro I use a Tamron 90mm macro lens with up to 27cm of extension. Photographing flowers at this magnification pixel shift is of no use as nature is too fuzzy to gain a pixel shift sharp image, or so I have found. David Ok, I am going to show my ignorance here with another question... Why do I need a cable release? Can't I use my wireless remote, or tethered cell phone or Ipad app? Or the built in 2 second self timer? And while I am showing my ignorance, why do I see some listed with a dual cable release? What else needs releasing? Thanks as always, Eric

08-27-2016, 09:42 PM	#14
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,385	Originally posted by Erictator Ok, I am going to show my ignorance here with another question... Why do I need a cable release? Can't I use my wireless remote, or tethered cell phone or Ipad app? Or the built in 2 second self timer? And while I am showing my ignorance, why do I see some listed with a dual cable release? What else needs releasing? Thanks as always, Eric The cable release was for film cameras that used a mechanical release. It also operates a stop down mechanism in the bellows which allows you to focus wide open then stop the aperture down as you make the shot. Sadly that type of cable release doesn't work with dslrs.

08-29-2016, 06:47 AM	#15
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,525	A mechanical cable release is handy. It can just be a standard (single) cable. If you have the Auto Bellow (M42) or Auto Bellows-K/M/A when used with an auto lens of the appropriate mount (m42 for m42, K-mount for K-mount) you can focus/compose wide open and then stop the lens down with the cable. The cable socket on the Auto Bellows is also a button that you can press and lock by twisting it so you can still stop down the lens without a cable. The advantage of using a cable is that you don't have to touch the lens or button to stop down thus avoiding possibly jarring or moving the lens/bellows. I have a nice vitage Minolta cable release that has a locking collar around the button which makes one handed operation a snap. The more common thumbscrew lock is a little more clumsy to operate with one-hand. You can use the dual cable release with a single connection to the bellows only. If you are using available lighting I recommend you meter wide open and calculate the EV shift for the appropriate shutter speed at the f-stop you will be shooting at. There may not be enough light with the lens stopped down to get a meter reading.