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09-21-2016, 10:48 AM   #1
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Long Exposure with PS?

So I live not far from some pretty cool tide pools.
I am contemplating getting one of those Lee or Haida 150 x 150 adapters for my 15-30mm lens and using either a 6 or 10 stop ND to smooth out the water.
They are both pretty pricey though. Before I invest in one, I am curious, how do lo long exposure water shots look with pixel shift. The ones I have seen with the K-3II looked pretty bad with the artifacts. I was wondering if the K-1 is improved in that regard.

09-21-2016, 10:56 AM   #2
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Not sure but you could conduct an experiment in your home.

Put a bowl in the sink under the water faucet.
Turn on the water to simulate the same flow rate as the tidal pools.
Turn off all lights and close the window blinds enough to simulate the ND filter.
Then take some pictures.
09-21-2016, 11:25 AM   #3
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you can try this too:
Simple Trick for Long Exposure Photography Without Using a Filter
09-21-2016, 11:38 AM   #4
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I would not think that it would work too well. I remembered a prior thread on this...


09-21-2016, 11:44 AM   #5
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Try the ICE ND filters. About $30 on Amazon. Reviews have been quite favorable (ICE ND Filter Review).
09-21-2016, 11:47 AM   #6
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Water shots with pixelshift??? You need to have a smooth water why using PS for details?
This is the opposite of desired achievement.
Anyway, remember that all filters reduce the lens sharpness and have a color cast. Good ones are very expensive and not easy choice to be made.

Take a look at Breakthrough ND filters...
09-21-2016, 11:48 AM   #7
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It works sometimes and sometimes not. Done quite a few long exposures with PS. Expose long enough and most artifacts will be gone. You can also take a series of them and combine as smart object in photoshop using mean or median blending. That will sort out 99% of problems.

30sec example



09-21-2016, 11:52 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by c57d Quote
Try the ICE ND filters. About $30 on Amazon. Reviews have been quite favorable (ICE ND Filter Review).
Thanks...but the problem is that due to the bulbous front end of this lens, it requires a special filter holder such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/Haida-Filter-Holder-Tamron-15-30mm/dp/B012BH5N06

---------- Post added 09-21-16 at 11:55 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by RAART Quote
Water shots with pixelshift??? You need to have a smooth water why using PS for details?
This is the opposite of desired achievement.

Please see MJKoski's post for an example of water shots with pixelshift.
Really what I am asking is not very "exotic". Surely you have seen waterfall or river shots where there is smooth water yet the rocks, trees etc were sharp.

---------- Post added 09-21-16 at 11:59 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by interested_observer Quote
I would not think that it would work too well. I remembered a prior thread on this...
I saw that thread, and there was no consensus on there either. Although MJKoski's pics do offer some encouraging results.


Last edited by cali92rs; 09-21-2016 at 12:00 PM.
09-21-2016, 12:15 PM   #9
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QuoteQuote:
Please see MJKoski's post for an example of water shots with pixelshift.
Really what I am asking is not very "exotic". Surely you have seen waterfall or river shots where there is smooth water yet the rocks, trees etc were sharp.
Yes I did saw long exposure pictures and first I like to sort different problem with LE... Sharpness is reduced due to use of ND filter and I find better idea to use different techniques to achieve this, starting with stacking or blending...

Please do not take this offensive as I just wondered why like to use PS.

No pixelshift used in those, just a single long exposure:



09-21-2016, 12:50 PM   #10
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Would multi-composite shots not be a better choice here? I have just begun tests with my K3ii on that but it looks promising.
09-21-2016, 12:56 PM   #11
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I was just toying around with PS when exposing those. Idea was to get some real punch to static subjects in contrast to smooth surroundings. And when it works it works really good. One good ND filter will not mess with PS. I used B+W 6-stopper with d-fa 24-70 in those examples. This allowed 30sec exposure when the best light hit the scene.
09-21-2016, 06:41 PM   #12
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Pixel shift and slow exposure for water can work OK, with the Silkypix software or the Pentax version of Silkypix that comes with the camera (which I don't use).

Silkypix Developer studio Pro, for windows does a very nice job, very few if any artifacts. Currently only the PC version works with Pixel shift images Mac version paints the images red.

LR, as has been noted already can't work with water, and will show a lot of green artifacts. I still prefer LR for Pixel shift even though Adobe conversion is not the best. It could be much better if just a bit of time was spent on it. When working water and using Pixel shift I always just take a shot non Pixel shift and blend it back in. You really don't gain much anyway with moving water and Pixel shift. You do with faster exposures, stop action however.

If Silkypix could just improve a bit on their masks implementations, that would be a nice thing. But they manage to pull a huge amount of details out of the files.

For filters, I use the Nisi holder for the 15-30 and the Nisi glass filters, both ND and CLPL


Paul C
09-22-2016, 04:43 AM   #13
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Yes, blending in standard exposure in Photoshop is what I use now. As said, those were test shots to see if it works. Actually I blend in the PS shot as it is fun to see more details painted on the picture
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