[lazarustx]

Hello, sorry if this is a repost but I can't seem to find the original...

In preparation for next week's photography class, the instructor suggested I pull out the Flash so we could discuss a few settings. He was a bit confused about the P-TTL setup over exposing the images. He's not familiar with the Pentax setup so I promised to try to do my homework. Here are my questions:

1. Also, even in P-TTL mode, when shooting the camera in manual mode, photos just seem to come out over exposed. This is particularly true with my 50-135mm. I can over come this via manual settings but P-TTL should work! Any thoughts.

2. AWB on my K-1. What setting do you folks use for your WB while using the flash. Neither one of us could figure out which setting was the appropriate one based on the documentation. The following is the online info I found:
The Pentax K-1's white balance system offers a wide range of options, including an interesting Multi Auto WB mode which aims to neutralize color casts from multiple different light sources in the same scene. As well as Automatic and Manual modes, the K-1 provides nine white balance presets (Daylight, Shade, Cloudy, Daylight Color Fluorescent, Daylight White Fluorescent, Cool White Fluorescent, Warm White Fluorescent, Tungsten, and Color Temperature Enhancement). This last option is used to retain and enhance the lighting tone - for example, to enhance a sunset.
White balance can also be measured from a neutral target, or a specific color temperature can be dialed in manually, using either Kelvin or Mired values. Three custom white balance values of each type can be stored in-camera. And finally, you can adjust white balance within a +/- 7-step range on both amber-blue and green-magenta axes.

I was able to adjust the white balance post processing but I really should know what setting to use when using the flash.

Again, sorry if this is a repost for the most part but I can't for the life of me find my other post. Again, thanks for the all the help!
Regards,
Rodney

[dfp771]

For both location work with fill flash as well as studio work I usually leave the white balance on AWB. However, I have found that, like my K-5iis, when shooting into the sun on location or in studio when direct flash can enter the lense, AWB does NOT do a good job- there is a lot of variation from shot to shot. For these situations I leave it set to daylight. I normally shoot RAW anyway and I try to use a white balance target for my first shot or two so I can set/correct white balance for the whole series of shots with this first calibration shot in Lightroom.

[stevebrot]

For these situations I leave it set to daylight.

Excellent strategy

I normally shoot RAW anyway

Provides most flexibility in PP

I try to use a white balance target for my first shot or two

Ka-Ching!!!

A true white may be used in PP to dial in the appropriate WB from RAW. A neutral gray target may also be useful in Lightroom if you wish to use the dropper tool to set a custom WB.


Steve

[clackers]

Hi Rodney,

1. Use the Flash Exposure Compensation setting to adjust the amount of flash output like salt and pepper. Check you are not too close to the subject.

2. The flash by itself does Daylight output. Put a gel on it if you want to match the bluer light of shade or yellow of tungsten light also in the scene, then correct the lot in post.

Have fun!

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Last edited by clackers; 10-26-2016 at 03:17 PM.

[rawr]

even in P-TTL mode, when shooting the camera in manual mode, photos just seem to come out over exposed. This is particularly true with my 50-135mm.

What flash are you using? Note that some flashes (eg some Metz) will respond differently (auto-zoom of the flash head, flash output, and hence also exposure) if they are configured to work with full-frame or crop.

[lazarustx]

What flash are you using? Note that some flashes (eg some Metz) will respond differently (auto-zoom of the flash head, flash output, and hence also exposure) if they are configured to work with full-frame or crop.

Thanks guys! OK. Set WB to Daylight if necessary, and step down if needed. I use 2 AF360FG and one AF360FG II. So they are Pentax.

Thanks again!

[Ron_Man]

If I'm not mistaken, doesn't P-TTL work more accurately when shooting in P mode?

At least for me anyway. When I shoot in Manual mode I don't want to trust TTL at all and go full manual with the flash as well due to experiences similar to yours.

[clackers]

If I'm not mistaken, doesn't P-TTL work more accurately when shooting in P mode?

At least for me anyway. When I shoot in Manual mode I don't want to trust TTL at all and go full manual with the flash as well due to experiences similar to yours.

??

I often shoot P-TTL with the camera in Manual mode.

[stevebrot]

If I'm not mistaken, doesn't P-TTL work more accurately when shooting in P mode?

No...Metering, including flash metering is independent of the exposure mode. The only mode you can't use with P-TTL is B.


Steve

[Ron_Man]

??

I often shoot P-TTL with the camera in Manual mode.

I wasn't saying that you can't. What I was trying to say is that it didn't seem as accurate. In my experiences anyway, it seemed to properly expose for me on my K-5 and K-7 in P, Av, and TAv most times. I actually never bothered trying it with my K-3 though.

In short, I have learned to shoot my flashes in manual :/

[clackers]

I wasn't saying that you can't. What I was trying to say is that it didn't seem as accurate. In my experiences anyway, it seemed to properly expose for me on my K-5 and K-7 in P, Av, and TAv most times. I actually never bothered trying it with my K-3 though.

In short, I have learned to shoot my flashes in manual :/

If I'm using two or three flashes, it's manual to get ratios right.

But I've not had problems with P-TTL either on my bodies. I think it's such a relief to use in fast changing circumstances eg events as below.