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11-22-2016, 02:44 PM - 1 Like   #16
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For what it's worth, I put the specs in a dof calculator( free one on my phone, so may not be perfect)

I assumed full frame, from your signature, 28mm, and 6 ft to subject.

At f7.1, you had a dof of 8.3ft with about 2ft in front, and 6ft past subject.
At f5.6, you had a dof of 5.5 ft with about 1.5 ft in front and 4ft past subject.

Personally, I would shoot with a higher shutter speed. If you're camera is on a tripod, that's good for camera shake, but won't keep the subjects from moving ( swaying, blinking...)

11-22-2016, 02:50 PM - 1 Like   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by lithedreamer Quote
A few things:

-1/30s is a little slow if you print a shot big or pixel peep, you're going to see some blur.
-AF might need fine tuning
-More contrast, setting black and white points and sharpening in post would improve these images

But this looks like image stabilisation was on while the camera was tripod mounted.

Thanks. I'll be working in LR to fix them up. I'll be sure to note your recommendations. As others have suggested, I'm a newbie and with LR I'm a bigger newbie, but I've got time on my side!
Thanks again....

---------- Post added 11-22-2016 at 03:57 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Tjompen1968 Quote
If C-menu item 21 is set to 1 the SR turns off when in IR remote or Timer mode. Also if you have C-menu item 10 set to 2 you will have AF when using IR remote.
@TJompen1968 Great tip! Yea, I have C21 set to 1 (default) and I still don't know why I feel like SR is on, but some of these images are clearly not tack sharp.

@Riggomatic, DoF Calcs are very useful which is why I thought I was in the clear with regards to my DoF.


---------- Post added 11-22-2016 at 04:02 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Bruce Clark Quote

A couple of points.

Using a wireless remote or self timer automatically disables the SR so that should not be an issue.
People unfortunately move around so 1/30th of a second may be a bit slow in my opinion.
Depth of field. Check your Dof with this handy calculator .
My estimation of DoF using figures you supply are 3.34 feet at f5.6 and 4.4 feet at f7.1. This assumes you were focusing on the correct point at 6 feet. Using multipoint Autofocus, it is a bit hard to be sure where the camera decided to focus. If the camera focused on the lady in front in both cases you acceptable DoF behind her is only 2.1 feet an 2.9 feet respectively. This may not be enough in a group shot where people are behind one another.
Did you focus before activating the remote? 1/2 press shutter button or Rear AF button. Using the remote does NOT activate the autofocus mechanism (K-7 and K-5-IIs) unless using Remote Control 0-RC1 and pressing the correct button.
Cover the optical view finder as light entering the camera here can affect exposure.
@Bruce, all good points. Yes, 1/2 press before to achieve AF. And the remote I have 0-RC1, so yea, I can use the AF button there too. I normally wouldn't. Thanks!
11-22-2016, 04:15 PM   #18
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Along with the good advice you have been offered already, just one more thing. Do not take for granted that your tripod is rock steady!

Flimsy tripods can be as bad as hand holding at too slow SS.
Tripods not held fast to the ground (weighted) can move
Touching the camera or tripod before exposure can cause vibrations that take more time than expected to subside
Mirror slap can also take time to dissipate. So best use tripod with MUP and delay shutter firing for a few seconds

Finally exposures between 1/2 to 1/30 second are in the tripod Bermuda Triangle of shake, with exposures shorter than 1/30 or longer than 1/2 second preferred.
11-23-2016, 07:46 PM   #19
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I'll jump on the bandwagon saying it was shutter speed. Even standing still most people will usually move imperceptibly, but just enough to blur detail at slow shutter speeds. Leaves aren't good at posing either. 😉

Even in low light I try to stay at 1/60 or faster. (1/80 or 1/100 for kids or moving people) And I mean VERY low light, where I'm at f/3.2 and ISO6400 to ISO12800. Any slower and movement blur will overwhelm any gain from using lower ISO.

(This is with a K-3, so I try to stay below ISO6400, but you could go higher with a K-1.)

11-23-2016, 08:00 PM   #20
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I agree with many earlier posters, that this looks like a combination of slow shutter speed and likely front focus.

Both will be easily remedied for future shots
11-25-2016, 08:21 AM   #21
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I don't know if these were mentioned but...
I would not go below 1/125 of a second for posing.
don't let the camera decide were to focus... choose the focus point yourself
out of that group shot you would think at least one person would be in focus if the shutter speed was fast enough so that leads me to conclude the shutter speed you chose was too slow.
if there is enough light, try f8 next time, bumping the iso if needed

good luck

11-27-2016, 12:54 PM   #22
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If this is the 28-105, I rented one and found it too unreliable to use on my K1. I tried it for a couple hours, then never bothered with it again until I sent it back. It suffered from both front and back focusing for any given shot--you never knew which way until you looked on the computer. But that was only one sample....

When I look at your photo the background looks fairly bright, which also makes focus errors more likely. In those situations I usually use manual focus with magnified live view.
11-27-2016, 04:42 PM   #23
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To reiterate what others have said, SR is off when you use a remote, so that isn't your problem. The issue is your slow shutter speed. At a minimum, your shutter speed should be twice your focal length, so in this case, an absolute minimum you'd aim for is 1/60th of a second (based on a 28mm focal length). Personally, for portraits id go even faster.

11-29-2016, 09:32 PM - 1 Like   #24
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Thanks for everyone's input. Going to line up the family this Friday and see what I can do!
Happy Holidays

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