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01-16-2017, 09:49 AM   #91
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
Back to this topic then, where can I buy a type of battery which works better in these temps? I tried backup car starter lead acid battery system which had USB output with A7R2 as it supplied enough amperage through the USB port to keep camera running on USB power.
The K-1, as with other Pentax flagship models has a DC power input intended for use with the K-AC132 AC power adapter. A suitable external battery pack may also be used. I don't have time to provide a list of links, but I believe there are a couple of do-it-yourself posts on this site detailing how to make your own.


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01-16-2017, 10:26 AM   #92
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
Those are dead like a rock. There is still some water inside the zoom when shaken. And body as well. The sealing is holding in normal atmospheric pressure. The whole set was underwater for approx. 30 minutes before I managed to get them up with a loooong pole fishing net...
If you don't have to surrender them to collect on the insurance, I suggest washing them completely submerged with regular water (or even better, distilled water) to remove all of the salt water. I had a friend whose camera fell into a river, and was totally dead. But months later, after it had dried out, it was working again. Not that it might not have lasting effects, but minimally it would be worth it as a curiosity.
01-16-2017, 12:18 PM   #93
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I will let it be as agreed with insurance company. Salt water corrodes the internals very quickly and that would not be fair game anyway.
01-17-2017, 03:32 AM   #94
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
... Mobile phone usage in such temps is discussed every year in media here and tests are being done on regular basis no matter what is their advised temperature limit. ...
Mobile phones have raised the bar for acceptable performance in many areas.

---------- Post added 01-17-17 at 04:33 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
... I tell you a secret - Winter season has by far best light conditions our country will ever provide. No matter what the specs might say.
I can't imagine Finnish light conditions are ranked in the camera specs sheet..?

---------- Post added 01-17-17 at 04:47 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by wissink Quote
... I found it hard to function. Didn't help when my fingers were sticking to the tripod and I didn't have the dexterity to operate the knobs to adjust it.
Sounds like you were at risk of becoming a character in a Jack London story
Don't drop the matches...

Too bad there isn't some simple way to know if the camera will work or not. If the user spits and the spit freezes before it hits the ground then leave the camera packed up.

01-17-2017, 08:22 AM   #95
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QuoteOriginally posted by wissink Quote
Didn't help when my fingers were sticking to the tripod and I didn't have the dexterity to operate the knobs to adjust it.
This is where the good old Tiltall tripod earns it keep! Especially when equipped with rubber cane/chair tips on the handles!
01-17-2017, 11:50 AM - 1 Like   #96
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tan68 Quote
I can't imagine Finnish light conditions are ranked in the camera specs sheet..?
Best light happens at -30C and colder during the heart of the winter. No pain, no gain. Gotta be there no matter what specs say.
01-19-2017, 05:12 AM   #97
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Yesterday I got new K-1. I did freezer test before leaving for another winter photo trip. I left it in freezer for 4 hours, but only -22C. Battery was included so it was frozen as well as I fired it up and tried PS & sensor shift. It still worked and EXIF reported -21C temps for the test frames. Maybe there is certain trigger point where something gives when going towards -30C. Or tolerances are wild within the IBIS construction.

01-19-2017, 07:10 AM   #98
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
Yesterday I got new K-1. I did freezer test before leaving for another winter photo trip. I left it in freezer for 4 hours, but only -22C. Battery was included so it was frozen as well as I fired it up and tried PS & sensor shift. It still worked and EXIF reported -21C temps for the test frames. Maybe there is certain trigger point where something gives when going towards -30C. Or tolerances are wild within the IBIS construction.
May be you should just throw a couple of batteries in the freezer and see how they behave in the camera when frozen.
01-19-2017, 07:25 AM   #99
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
Yesterday I got new K-1. I did freezer test before leaving for another winter photo trip. I left it in freezer for 4 hours, but only -22C. Battery was included so it was frozen as well as I fired it up and tried PS & sensor shift. It still worked and EXIF reported -21C temps for the test frames. Maybe there is certain trigger point where something gives when going towards -30C. Or tolerances are wild within the IBIS construction.
Yes, it could all be tolerances in the IBIS with some K-1's being more or less sensitive to being used so far outside their manufacturer-specifications.

But it might also be a function of thermal distortions in the IBIS platform if the camera is used in certain ways at very low temperatures. If one side of the IBIS platform is warm (e.g., sensor running LV, long-exposure, LCD panel active, etc.) and the other side is cold (e.g., including changing lenses at extreme low temperature), the differential expansion would induce a curve in the platform which might cause it to get stuck in the IBIS housing.
01-19-2017, 07:57 AM   #100
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QuoteOriginally posted by shardulm Quote
May be you should just throw a couple of batteries in the freezer and see how they behave in the camera when frozen.
Uhhuh! I did that. I included the battery when I put the camera in the freezer. And it worked still after 4 hours.
01-19-2017, 03:50 PM - 1 Like   #101
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Btw. related to some of the incredulous "what are you doing to your gear"-posts. I guess you shouldn't take your gear when ski touring then? If I can take sleeping in a tent @ -34C I should hope my gear does too (that time the aperture of my sigma lens froze wide open.. funny that). And yeah, lapland gets pretty cold and pretty during the winter.
01-19-2017, 06:51 PM   #102
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QuoteOriginally posted by fromunderthebridge Quote
Btw. related to some of the incredulous "what are you doing to your gear"-posts. I guess you shouldn't take your gear when ski touring then? If I can take sleeping in a tent @ -34C I should hope my gear does too (that time the aperture of my sigma lens froze wide open.. funny that). And yeah, lapland gets pretty cold and pretty during the winter.
I don't baby my gear, even the stuff that isn't rated WR, but you presumably wear clothes and sleep in a sleeping bag. Sometimes your gear needs extra support for the rain or cold, too.
01-19-2017, 11:56 PM   #103
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
Yesterday I got new K-1. I did freezer test before leaving for another winter photo trip. I left it in freezer for 4 hours, but only -22C. Battery was included so it was frozen as well as I fired it up and tried PS & sensor shift. It still worked and EXIF reported -21C temps for the test frames. Maybe there is certain trigger point where something gives when going towards -30C. Or tolerances are wild within the IBIS construction.
You have a -22C freezer???
01-20-2017, 12:48 AM - 1 Like   #104
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
Yesterday I got new K-1. I did freezer test before leaving for another winter photo trip. I left it in freezer for 4 hours, but only -22C. Battery was included so it was frozen as well as I fired it up and tried PS & sensor shift. It still worked and EXIF reported -21C temps for the test frames. Maybe there is certain trigger point where something gives when going towards -30C. Or tolerances are wild within the IBIS construction.
There could also be different levels of moisture inside the camera, perhaps the one that froze had just a tiny bit of moist inside and that was enough to prevent the sensor from moving freely.
01-20-2017, 01:18 AM   #105
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QuoteOriginally posted by lithedreamer Quote
I don't baby my gear, even the stuff that isn't rated WR, but you presumably wear clothes and sleep in a sleeping bag. Sometimes your gear needs extra support for the rain or cold, too.
True. Then again sooner or later the camera temp will drop to match the ambient. Unless you use some sort of active heating or sleep with the gear, neither of which seem very appetizing or sustainable on a week long trek.
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