K-1 for converting slides ?

**exposeric** · 02-27-2017, 11:36 AM

Originally posted by sibyrnes

I have been busy converting some of my old slides with my K1. If anyone is interested here are some of the results:
Canyonlands | Flickr

Chuck,
very nice photos.
I wonder how you have set the camera, the lens for the transfer and how you manage the post processing workflow.
Some information would be very useful.
Thank you for showing your slides.
Cheers
Eric

**sibyrnes** · 02-27-2017, 12:04 PM

Thank you. As I stated in a earlier post here(the one with the lion), I use a Nikon ES-1 slide holder and some 52mm spacers on a 105mm Vivitar Series 1 macro lens. I use a Vivitar 283 flash for the light. Post processing mostly means getting rid of spots in the sky in PP. No matter how much I try to keep the slides, lens, etc dust free, I still see spots that were not so noticeable when the image was viewed as a 35mm slide. Sometime I mess with the white balance but the Vivitar flash gets it pretty close. I am going to try the same process with a new DFA 50mm macro when it arrives. I want to see if there is any improvement IQ, especially with CA.

**exposeric** · 02-27-2017, 03:13 PM

Originally posted by sibyrnes

Here's a photo of my set up. I shoot at f16 with the flash at its lowest manual setting.

With direct flash the light is hard. If the light is soft (reflecting white panel e. g.) you will probably have less white spots. I would cross check the Vivitar with a 50mm f4 Macro Takumar if possible. For me CA is no issue at f8 with that lens.

**sibyrnes** · 02-27-2017, 03:14 PM

Here's a photo of my set up. I shoot at f16 with the flash at its lowest manual setting.

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

Last edited by sibyrnes; 02-27-2017 at 03:40 PM.

**exposeric** · 02-28-2017, 09:28 AM

Hi Chuck
In my first album here at PF there are a few photos made from '74 with a Ricoh rangefinder camera and from '84 with Leica M. All are on Kodachrome and before scanning I helped me with an 'air rubber brush' to put the dust away. I used again window light and I would recommend strongly soft light for scanning. The scans I processed in camera for framing (cutting away the slide mount) and in Silky Pix to adjust in some scans the white balance using the white adjustment tool. I did also the scale down in Silky Pix.
Cheers
Eric

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/members/101425-exposeric/albums/11579-slide-copies-k1/

Medex · 02-28-2017, 09:59 PM

Originally posted by sibyrnes

Here's a photo of my set up. I shoot at f16 with the flash at its lowest manual setting.

Hello. Why you use f16 when the best resolution in the center and corners is at f8, maybe f11. I use FA 100 macro at f8 and it is good for sharpness across the image

**sibyrnes** · 03-01-2017, 08:59 AM

Originally posted by Medex

Hello. Why you use f16 when the best resolution in the center and corners is at f8, maybe f11. I use FA 100 macro at f8 and it is good for sharpness across the image

I don't know. What are your "best resolution" f stop values based on? I have been using f16 simply because I get the best exposure with the flash set at minimum power. Do you know for sure that the Vivitar 105mm Macro has better resolution at f8 than at f16? I could move the flash a little further away and shoot with at f 8. It's worth a try.

Medex · 03-01-2017, 09:26 AM

Originally posted by sibyrnes

I don't know. What are your "best resolution" f stop values based on? I have been using f16 simply because I get the best exposure with the flash set at minimum power. Do you know for sure that the Vivitar 105mm Macro has better resolution at f8 than at f16? I could move the flash a little further away and shoot with at f 8. It's worth a try.

My decision is based on the test results from photozone.de. Here is it. http://www.photozone.de/pentax/130-pentax-smc-fa-100mm-f28-macro-review--lab...report?start=1
And I use LED lamp 6000 K. Should to say that I use my DIY equipment for film negative reproduction

**clackers** · 03-01-2017, 10:48 AM

Originally posted by sibyrnes

. Do you know for sure that the Vivitar 105mm Macro has better resolution at f8 than at f16? .

Almost every lens is at its best two stops down from wide open.

If you can find data for anything that's better at f16 than f8, I'd love to see it, Sibyrnes!

**sibyrnes** · 03-01-2017, 10:53 AM

Originally posted by clackers

Almost every lens is at its best two stops down from wide open.

If you can find data for anything that's better at f16 than f8, I'd love to see it, Sibyrnes!

Wide open on my Vivitar Series 1 Macro is f32.

**lithedreamer** · 03-01-2017, 10:57 AM

Originally posted by sibyrnes

Wide open on my Vivitar Series 1 Macro is f32.

Uh... that's probably not wide open.

**sibyrnes** · 03-01-2017, 10:59 AM

Originally posted by lithedreamer

Uh... that's probably not wide open.

Whoops! Misread that one!

Anyway is there something in my examples that suggest I am using the wrong f stop?

**clackers** · 03-01-2017, 11:00 AM

Originally posted by sibyrnes

Wide open on my Vivitar Series 1 Macro is f32.

Er, no.

It will be f2.8, when the blades are fully circular. .

**clackers** · 03-01-2017, 11:03 AM - **2 Likes**

Originally posted by sibyrnes

Whoops! Misread that one!

Anyway is there something in my examples that suggest I am using the wrong f stop?

I think you need to read up on aperture and its photographic effects.

At f16 you're not shooting for IQ, you're doing it for depth of field, which makes no sense for flat subjects.

In fact, you're at or on the edge of where diffraction starts to soften your images.

**sibyrnes** · 03-01-2017, 11:11 AM

Originally posted by clackers

I think you need to read up on aperture and its photographic effects.

At f16 you're not shooting for IQ, you're doing it for depth of field, which makes no sense for flat subjects.

In fact, you're at or on the edge of where diffraction starts to soften your images.

Thank you for your suggestions. I was concerned that some of my old slides are not perfectly "flat". I am going to move my light source further away so I can experiment with different f stops. I also am going to try a new DFA50 macro as soon as it arrives. I am pretty happy with my results so far but if they can be improved I will be even happier!

02-28-2017, 09:28 AM	#50
exposeric Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2016 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 201	Hi Chuck In my first album here at PF there are a few photos made from '74 with a Ricoh rangefinder camera and from '84 with Leica M. All are on Kodachrome and before scanning I helped me with an 'air rubber brush' to put the dust away. I used again window light and I would recommend strongly soft light for scanning. The scans I processed in camera for framing (cutting away the slide mount) and in Silky Pix to adjust in some scans the white balance using the white adjustment tool. I did also the scale down in Silky Pix. Cheers Eric https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/members/101425-exposeric/albums/11579-slide-copies-k1/ Last edited by exposeric; 03-01-2017 at 04:02 AM. Reason: correction (Ricoh rangefinder camera)and more information

03-01-2017, 09:26 AM	#53
Medex Pentaxian Join Date: May 2013 Location: Vilnius Posts: 1,020	Originally posted by sibyrnes I don't know. What are your "best resolution" f stop values based on? I have been using f16 simply because I get the best exposure with the flash set at minimum power. Do you know for sure that the Vivitar 105mm Macro has better resolution at f8 than at f16? I could move the flash a little further away and shoot with at f 8. It's worth a try. My decision is based on the test results from photozone.de. Here is it. http://www.photozone.de/pentax/130-pentax-smc-fa-100mm-f28-macro-review--lab...report?start=1 And I use LED lamp 6000 K. Should to say that I use my DIY equipment for film negative reproduction Last edited by Medex; 03-02-2017 at 06:23 AM.

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02-27-2017, 11:36 AM	#46
exposeric Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2016 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 201	Originally posted by sibyrnes I have been busy converting some of my old slides with my K1. If anyone is interested here are some of the results: Canyonlands \| Flickr Chuck, very nice photos. I wonder how you have set the camera, the lens for the transfer and how you manage the post processing workflow. Some information would be very useful. Thank you for showing your slides. Cheers Eric

02-27-2017, 12:04 PM	#47
sibyrnes Site Supporter Join Date: May 2016 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa. Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 447	Thank you. As I stated in a earlier post here(the one with the lion), I use a Nikon ES-1 slide holder and some 52mm spacers on a 105mm Vivitar Series 1 macro lens. I use a Vivitar 283 flash for the light. Post processing mostly means getting rid of spots in the sky in PP. No matter how much I try to keep the slides, lens, etc dust free, I still see spots that were not so noticeable when the image was viewed as a 35mm slide. Sometime I mess with the white balance but the Vivitar flash gets it pretty close. I am going to try the same process with a new DFA 50mm macro when it arrives. I want to see if there is any improvement IQ, especially with CA.

02-27-2017, 03:13 PM	#48
exposeric Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2016 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 201	Originally posted by sibyrnes Here's a photo of my set up. I shoot at f16 with the flash at its lowest manual setting. With direct flash the light is hard. If the light is soft (reflecting white panel e. g.) you will probably have less white spots. I would cross check the Vivitar with a 50mm f4 Macro Takumar if possible. For me CA is no issue at f8 with that lens.

02-28-2017, 09:59 PM	#51
Medex Pentaxian Join Date: May 2013 Location: Vilnius Posts: 1,020	Originally posted by sibyrnes Here's a photo of my set up. I shoot at f16 with the flash at its lowest manual setting. Hello. Why you use f16 when the best resolution in the center and corners is at f8, maybe f11. I use FA 100 macro at f8 and it is good for sharpness across the image

03-01-2017, 08:59 AM	#52
sibyrnes Site Supporter Join Date: May 2016 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa. Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 447	Originally posted by Medex Hello. Why you use f16 when the best resolution in the center and corners is at f8, maybe f11. I use FA 100 macro at f8 and it is good for sharpness across the image I don't know. What are your "best resolution" f stop values based on? I have been using f16 simply because I get the best exposure with the flash set at minimum power. Do you know for sure that the Vivitar 105mm Macro has better resolution at f8 than at f16? I could move the flash a little further away and shoot with at f 8. It's worth a try.

03-01-2017, 10:48 AM	#54
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by sibyrnes . Do you know for sure that the Vivitar 105mm Macro has better resolution at f8 than at f16? . Almost every lens is at its best two stops down from wide open. If you can find data for anything that's better at f16 than f8, I'd love to see it, Sibyrnes!

03-01-2017, 10:53 AM	#55
sibyrnes Site Supporter Join Date: May 2016 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa. Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 447	Originally posted by clackers Almost every lens is at its best two stops down from wide open. If you can find data for anything that's better at f16 than f8, I'd love to see it, Sibyrnes! Wide open on my Vivitar Series 1 Macro is f32.

03-01-2017, 10:57 AM	#56
lithedreamer Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2013 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,799	Originally posted by sibyrnes Wide open on my Vivitar Series 1 Macro is f32. Uh... that's probably not wide open.

03-01-2017, 10:59 AM	#57
sibyrnes Site Supporter Join Date: May 2016 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa. Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 447	Originally posted by lithedreamer Uh... that's probably not wide open. Whoops! Misread that one! Anyway is there something in my examples that suggest I am using the wrong f stop?

03-01-2017, 11:00 AM	#58
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by sibyrnes Wide open on my Vivitar Series 1 Macro is f32. Er, no. It will be f2.8, when the blades are fully circular. .

03-01-2017, 11:03 AM - 2 Likes	#59
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by sibyrnes Whoops! Misread that one! Anyway is there something in my examples that suggest I am using the wrong f stop? I think you need to read up on aperture and its photographic effects. At f16 you're not shooting for IQ, you're doing it for depth of field, which makes no sense for flat subjects. In fact, you're at or on the edge of where diffraction starts to soften your images.

03-01-2017, 11:11 AM	#60
sibyrnes Site Supporter Join Date: May 2016 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa. Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 447	Originally posted by clackers I think you need to read up on aperture and its photographic effects. At f16 you're not shooting for IQ, you're doing it for depth of field, which makes no sense for flat subjects. In fact, you're at or on the edge of where diffraction starts to soften your images. Thank you for your suggestions. I was concerned that some of my old slides are not perfectly "flat". I am going to move my light source further away so I can experiment with different f stops. I also am going to try a new DFA50 macro as soon as it arrives. I am pretty happy with my results so far but if they can be improved I will be even happier!