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03-04-2017, 09:25 PM   #1
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Best settings for highest resolution stills on K-1?

I've just started using my new/used K-1 for shooting artwork. There are A LOT of settings on the K-1 that may/may not impact the sharpness of the captured image. I would like to get some feedback on what K-1 settings (excluding factors like lighting, ISO, tripod, lens type, aperture, tethered/remote) will give me the sharpest images for reproduction. Here are my thoughts:

1. Pixel Shift Resolution: ON. Motion correction: OFF.
2. AA Filter Simulator: OFF
3. LIVE VIEW: ON. Zoom 16x: Manual focus.
4. RAW: DNG
5. Live View: Electronic Shutter: ON
6. Self Timer: 2sec
7. Crop: Full Frame
8. Mirror Up: On

I don't know anything about Lens Correction or Noise Reduction settings if those would impact image sharpness. Is there something I missed? Or need to change?

03-04-2017, 10:03 PM - 2 Likes   #2
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What works best is LV ES (or pixel shift), and remote IR with 3 sec. delay, in that case, not only the camera raise the mirror, but it also closes the lens diaphragm in advance, wait 3 sec. and then take the shot. This is the mode where there is no part moving in the whole camera and lens. Also, if your own feet are on the same floor as the tripod and the floor isn't concrete, you moving around may transmit motion to the tripod and the camera, here you can stand away from the tripod and trigger the camera with IR remote (IR sensor that is a the back of the K1).
03-05-2017, 01:41 AM - 3 Likes   #3
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If you are using LV with ES there is no need to to set mirror up (in fact you can't), as the mirror is up anyway.
03-05-2017, 03:44 AM - 2 Likes   #4
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I know you ask for lenses to be ignored for the moment, but you can't really assess the camera in isolation from them.

Check your favorite lens on sites like photozone, lenstip.com or dxomark, and find the settings (focal length, aperture, vignetting etc) that deliver the best or 'sweet spot' for resolution. Marry that with the in-camera settings you have identified for same.

Plus think about your lighting. You don't mention that as a factor in your resolution project, but it can make all the difference.

03-05-2017, 03:56 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by rawr Quote
I know you ask for lenses to be ignored for the moment, but you can't really assess the camera in isolation from them.

Check your favorite lens on sites like photozone, lenstip.com or dxomark, and find the settings (focal length, aperture, vignetting etc) that deliver the best or 'sweet spot' for resolution. Marry that with the in-camera settings you have identified for same.

Plus think about your lighting. You don't mention that as a factor in your resolution project, but it can make all the difference.
Just off the top of my head, not checking it through, would it help to set the set the camera to programme mode with MTF priority? Obviously the dof required for the target changes with different targets, but it might be a good starting point.

Last edited by ffking; 03-05-2017 at 03:56 AM. Reason: typo
03-05-2017, 05:06 AM   #6
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Yes, I think the MTF figure from the program is very likely to be the optimum aperture for highest resolving power for artwork, assuming that the photographer is not wanting to introduce any creative effects.

Last edited by mcgregni; 03-05-2017 at 05:14 AM.
03-05-2017, 07:23 AM   #7
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Thanks for all the suggestions. Very helpful. I've read about the MTF mode and am not sure that it works well enough in for this situation.

03-05-2017, 08:33 AM   #8
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I'm sure that Manual exposure mode is probably the best way to work for this sort of very controlled situation. The MTF program line setting will bias the aperture choice towards the best quality aperture for the lens, but other factors such as focal length will also play a part. But it would be a good guide for your information. In reality I suspect that most lenses 'MTF sweetspot' will be one of either F5.6, F8 or F11 .
03-05-2017, 08:39 AM - 2 Likes   #9
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I use a hand held spot meter to nail the exposure when shooting my K1. No shotgun bracketing, or endless shoot/chimp/re-shoot for me.

If you nail the exposure, the K1 has such terrific dynamic range, there is little need for shadow and/or highlight correction to be turned on in the camera. Turn "off" the dynamic range shadow and highlight corrections in you K1. I am concerned that having them on might slightly degrade the image.

I'm of the school that believes the less image manipulation you do (even with RAW files) the better your pixels will look.

Last edited by Fenwoodian; 03-05-2017 at 09:53 AM.
03-05-2017, 11:00 AM   #10
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Have you seen this?

https://www.pentaxforums.com/reviews/pentax-k-1-review/recommended-settings.html
03-06-2017, 07:38 AM   #11
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What about Noise Reduction? I turned it off but would that also impact sharpness?
03-06-2017, 04:05 PM - 2 Likes   #12
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Noise will certainly affect detail and sharpness of a shot but can be removed in PP by programs such as Topaz DeNoiser or Noise Ninja to a high degree. Over brightness will also lose detail so getting your contrast and brightness is also important but that too can be fixed in PP.


Last edited by eaglem; 03-06-2017 at 04:13 PM.
03-06-2017, 05:02 PM - 2 Likes   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by dotp Quote
What about Noise Reduction? I turned it off but would that also impact sharpness?
None of the NR or lens correction setting have any impact on the DNG file or sharpness of the DNG file.
03-07-2017, 04:59 AM - 2 Likes   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Winder Quote
None of the NR or lens correction setting have any impact on the DNG file or sharpness of the DNG file.
Except the slow shutter noise reduction, (or whatever it’s called) that do the dark frame subtraction trick.
11-10-2023, 08:32 PM - 3 Likes   #15
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So 6 years after this post, I turn on my K-1 and my saved settings for shooting art are all gone. Panic. I don't even know where or if I ever wrote them down. Then I remembered this thread. And Boom! Thanks again for saving me from having to recreate those settings for artwork.!
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