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05-17-2017, 09:14 AM   #1
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K-1 Timelapse

Hi everyone, has anyone had a go at doing some timelapse with the k-1 using the built in intervalometer. I've given a few tries at different settings and the best I have so far isn't quite up to scratch. I was able to get a 500 shot at 3 second intervals without the buffer catching up but the odd shot did seem a little off time to me.

I had to shoot in only Jpeg to achieve this. I was wondering if any of you had found a better setting that means I can shoot in Raw somewhere between 2-5 second intervals without the buffer ruining the shot. I will be shooting at night as well so I'm not sure if this comes into play.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Rob

05-17-2017, 11:04 AM   #2
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Is noise reduction off? Are you writing to multiple cards at once? I've never hit the buffer during a time lapse. Only during bursts.
05-17-2017, 11:32 AM - 1 Like   #3
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I use the K-1 to shoot timelapses quite extensively. I recommend flipping over to crop mode to do this. You can shoot with as short as a 2 second pause between shots, indefinitely, without the buffer filling up.

Also, it makes storage and processing a heck of a lot easier to keep 1,200 images at 22MB than 45MB each.

You asked about night stuff. Rather than using the intervalometer, I recommend adjusting your manual settings until you get a shutter speed equaling the pause you want between shots and Continuous/High drive mode. Then a remote shutter cable that can hold the button down. Adjust aperture and ISO to balance the exposure of your image where you want it, then let the remote shutter drive it until you're ready to stop.

Using continuous/high rather than the intervalometer actually gives a better-flowing timelapse with the moving elements. Using quicker shutter speeds results in jagged motion.
05-17-2017, 12:54 PM - 1 Like   #4
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1) The biggest issue is the sustained write speed of the card. Often the speed rating of the card refers only to very small transfers and the card slows down as the volume of the data grows. In theory, a UHS-1, class U3 card should be able to take a K-1 RAW in about 1.7 seconds whereas a class U1 card could take up to 5 seconds per RAW.

2) Reformatting the card just before using it may help.

3) Turning off noise reduction, lens correction, and other optional image processing steps can speed things up.

05-17-2017, 01:33 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by robalabob Quote
Hi everyone, has anyone had a go at doing some timelapse with the k-1 using the built in intervalometer. I've given a few tries at different settings and the best I have so far isn't quite up to scratch. I was able to get a 500 shot at 3 second intervals without the buffer catching up but the odd shot did seem a little off time to me.

I had to shoot in only Jpeg to achieve this. I was wondering if any of you had found a better setting that means I can shoot in Raw somewhere between 2-5 second intervals without the buffer ruining the shot. I will be shooting at night as well so I'm not sure if this comes into play.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Rob
What's your shutter speed? Remember that you have to add the shutter speed to the desired interval time (if it's a second or more), otherwise shots may overlap.

Adam
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05-20-2017, 12:35 AM   #6
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I'm looking for any shutter speed right now, playing around with any and all setting but I do know that the shots can overlap. I'm thinking of around 1/8-1 sec in daylight and 15-25 sec for night shots

---------- Post added 05-20-17 at 12:36 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by photoptimist Quote
1) The biggest issue is the sustained write speed of the card. Often the speed rating of the card refers only to very small transfers and the card slows down as the volume of the data grows. In theory, a UHS-1, class U3 card should be able to take a K-1 RAW in about 1.7 seconds whereas a class U1 card could take up to 5 seconds per RAW.

2) Reformatting the card just before using it may help.

3) Turning off noise reduction, lens correction, and other optional image processing steps can speed things up.
I bought quite a fast card I think, good advice on turning the noise reduction and lens correction though as these can be done post, Never thought to do this thank you

---------- Post added 05-20-17 at 12:38 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by disasterfilm Quote
I use the K-1 to shoot timelapses quite extensively. I recommend flipping over to crop mode to do this. You can shoot with as short as a 2 second pause between shots, indefinitely, without the buffer filling up.

Also, it makes storage and processing a heck of a lot easier to keep 1,200 images at 22MB than 45MB each.

You asked about night stuff. Rather than using the intervalometer, I recommend adjusting your manual settings until you get a shutter speed equaling the pause you want between shots and Continuous/High drive mode. Then a remote shutter cable that can hold the button down. Adjust aperture and ISO to balance the exposure of your image where you want it, then let the remote shutter drive it until you're ready to stop.

Using continuous/high rather than the intervalometer actually gives a better-flowing timelapse with the moving elements. Using quicker shutter speeds results in jagged motion.
Thank you that's great advice, never really wanted to go into crop mode but might have to give this method a go thank you

---------- Post added 05-20-17 at 12:40 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by disasterfilm Quote
I use the K-1 to shoot timelapses quite extensively. I recommend flipping over to crop mode to do this. You can shoot with as short as a 2 second pause between shots, indefinitely, without the buffer filling up.

Also, it makes storage and processing a heck of a lot easier to keep 1,200 images at 22MB than 45MB each.

You asked about night stuff. Rather than using the intervalometer, I recommend adjusting your manual settings until you get a shutter speed equaling the pause you want between shots and Continuous/High drive mode. Then a remote shutter cable that can hold the button down. Adjust aperture and ISO to balance the exposure of your image where you want it, then let the remote shutter drive it until you're ready to stop.

Using continuous/high rather than the intervalometer actually gives a better-flowing timelapse with the moving elements. Using quicker shutter speeds results in jagged motion.
If I used a big stopper could I realistically use this method in daylight also?

---------- Post added 05-20-17 at 12:41 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by RoccoStiglitz Quote
Is noise reduction off? Are you writing to multiple cards at once? I've never hit the buffer during a time lapse. Only during bursts.
Ah, I'm using 2 cards, I can see this being a problem, thank you
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