[pschlute]

Legs extended only etc

I remember when i was looking for my first tripod, a pro friend of mine said get one that is the right height without extending the centre column.... that just causes problems.

Repeated with DFA 24-70mm. Vibrations far less obvious when looking at it on tripod - heavier lens, I suppose, dampening any movements

I dont think the weight of the lens per se is the issue. It is more likely to be a combination of tripod/mount/camera body or lens foot which in the right (wrong) circumstances allows the shock of the shutter to resonate through the setup. So a heavy lens mounted at the foot and a heavy camera will act a bit like a see-saw, pivotting on the mounting point. As I have said before I dont notice shutter shock at all with the DFA 24-70, but do with the DA 60-250 and DA 300. I know it is shutter shock that is the cause as LV ES eliminates the problem, as does removing the set-up from the tripod and placing the camera/lens on my kitchen granite worktop, holding it down firmlyas i trigger the shutter....no shock in those pictures.

---------- Post added 10-03-2017 at 10:00 PM ----------

However OP (and also in some other threads) was talking about the 28-105mm. What should be special with this very lens?

That lens features prominently in complaints about unsharp images even whn handheld.

[Gutta Perka]

I dont think the weight of the lens per se is the issue. It is more likely to be a combination of tripod/mount/camera body or lens foot which in the right (wrong) circumstances allows the shock of the shutter to resonate through the setup. So a heavy lens mounted at the foot and a heavy camera will act a bit like a see-saw, pivotting on the mounting point. As I have said before I dont notice shutter shock at all with the DFA 24-70, but do with the DA 60-250 and DA 300. I know it is shutter shock that is the cause as LV ES eliminates the problem, as does removing the set-up from the tripod and placing the camera/lens on my kitchen granite worktop, holding it down firmlyas i trigger the shutter....no shock in those pictures.

---------- Post added 10-03-2017 at 10:00 PM ----------



.

My 60-250mm and 300mm sits 95% on my K3 - most BANG for the pixels as less cropping. They give me great pleasure. However not on the the K1.

The problem is, also for me, the 28-105mm on the K1.

That's why my K1 is mostly resting at home unless just shooting primes. (Satisfied there but not really tested for the same faultiness...)

Better be good on one camera than half-good on two.

Do almost not dare to say - I could manage without the K1.

Like letting the high tech white-coated engineers working on the SAFOX and trim a bought in sensor and let the two left over to go to the junk yard finding the shock absorbers.

(Admin...is it free speech here?)

[pschlute]

My 60-250mm and 300mm sits 95% on my K3 - most BANG for the pixels as less cropping. They give me great pleasure. However not on the the K1.

With the k1 and those lenses, on a tripod , use a shutter speed faster than 1/250 and you will be fine. or use LV ES, and you will be fine.

With the K1 and those lenses handheld , just amke sure to enable SR and you should be ok. I can use the 300 at 1/60 and get sharp results.

It is not an insurmountable problem.

[Gutta Perka]

---------- Post added 10-04-17 at 01:43 AM ----------

With the k1 and those lenses, on a tripod , use a shutter speed faster than 1/250 and you will be fine. or use LV ES, and you will be fine.

With the K1 and those lenses handheld , just amke sure to enable SR and you should be ok. I can use the 300 at 1/60 and get sharp results.

It is not an insurmountable problem.

OK - not always for my 28-105mm within the shutter speeds mentioned. Do not forget the main thread-subject, that very lens. I do not even use it any longer.

Otherwise - sounds like throwing away my 2.5kg tripod - hallelujah - by just using SR....

OK - I know what You say - and mostly do so - because I'm not always sitting under a camouflage-net going through the K1 preflight checklist fiddling with all possible MENU-settings..

However - the K3 gives me more keepers and is good enough for my Epson pro 3880 A2-prints and panoramas with a RIP-software. A perfect K1 would be better though.
K1 is slower taking care of all that "not to do things" and the preparations You suggest - making me uncomfortable. If I need more dynamic range my K5IIs helps me out a bit and Q-image helps me increase size.

Not to forget, when I'm lucky with all K1-settings right and the object/situation has not suddenly disappeared - the K1-ones are great.

I'm on the list for K1-SAS (Super-Anti-Shock) without a mechanical shutter but rather with an optical one. (Like a window switching black to transparent with an electrical impulse - They seems to be out there...soon to make entrance. Search the net. Possibly to expensive/imperfect for the the moment.)

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Last edited by Gutta Perka; 10-03-2017 at 04:59 PM.

[DSLRnovice]

As has maybe been mentioned, other cameras have had this issue---my "old" A7R rather famously. I truly do think that part of the problem overall is that as these camera get better and better in this format (FF), we are bound to see more problems that we just couldn't/didn't see before. This is true of deep DOF, for instance: what used to be "acceptable" sharpness can now be seen to be not so acceptable. This isn't precisely your issue, but I do think it's in the background.

When I think back closely, i now remember that as I jumped up in formats back in film days, from 35 up to 6x9cm and 4x5in, I had to be a lot more careful. I'm thinking a lot of this is happening again, but now within the same format. I know that in a number of my "down and dirty" on the fly installation shots, they are basically fine for what they need to be. Close examination reveals problems, but by close I mean 1:1, and these images will never be viewed that way after I process them. They are in fact better than what end users actually need.

Yes. But I never understood the K1 to be a quick camera, rather a more deliberate one. I practically never miss a shot (because of speed), but that's because I am not shooting anything that needs it, really, so am shooting in the camera's operational sweet spot, if you will. Based on my discussions with the Pentax reps before the K1 was released, I never got the impression from them that they were going up against Canon or Nikon with it for action oriented photography.

While I am not doing much action photography, there are many times when a shot can be missed as clouds are moving over parts of the scene, or that the wind whips up suddenly. Waiting for PS images to be saved before changing exposure or reshooting can cause a missed shot.

Regarding your moving up in formats, I agree. It would be interesting to learn if the lower resolution of most films might have covered up shutter shock from the 35mm film days. Larger formats in film often had both MU and leaf shutters, which added very little vibration, however, DOF was more of a problem especially for Medium Formats.

[Sagnik]

I guess I too have experienced the shutter shock issue with my K-1 just after I got it. Randomly I will get sharp & unsharp images with my FA50, 31Ltd & 100 macro WR. It was extremely disturbing & frustrating as I did not know whether it was the shutter or SR to blame even after wasting hundreds of exposures. In course of my online search for a solution I read somewhere in a Sony forum that adding a grip solved the shutter shock problem with a few Sony A series bodies. So, quite reluctantly I ordered a DBG6 grip for K-1. Once I had the grip installed the problem just vanished ! The difference in output was like night & day. May be I was just lucky. This may not be the solution for everyone facing unsharpness issues with K-1, but may work for some. It's worth a try. May be the grip will 'cure' your camera too !

[awscreo]

I'm considering selling the dfa 28-105, despite all my love toward this awesome piece of glass seems 24-70 is better in that regard, so maybe it's time for a pro zoom for me

---------- Post added 10-14-17 at 10:26 AM ----------

I guess I too have experienced the shutter shock issue with my K-1 just after I got it. Randomly I will get sharp & unsharp images with my FA50, 31Ltd & 100 macro WR. It was extremely disturbing & frustrating as I did not know whether it was the shutter or SR to blame even after wasting hundreds of exposures. In course of my online search for a solution I read somewhere in a Sony forum that adding a grip solved the shutter shock problem with a few Sony A series bodies. So, quite reluctantly I ordered a DBG6 grip for K-1. Once I had the grip installed the problem just vanished ! The difference in output was like night & day. May be I was just lucky. This may not be the solution for everyone facing unsharpness issues with K-1, but may work for some. It's worth a try. May be the grip will 'cure' your camera too !

I wonder if anyone tried this solution with the dfa 28-105? Buying a grip is much cheaper than switching to a 24-70 although I guess I'll have to sell my current messenger bag I just got, it most definitely won't fit k-1 with the grip lol, gonna have to get a bigger one, or carry the camera with lens off..

[Gutta Perka]

I'm considering selling the dfa 28-105, despite all my love toward this awesome piece of glass seems 24-70 is better in that regard, so maybe it's time for a pro zoom for me

---------- Post added 10-14-17 at 10:26 AM ----------



I wonder if anyone tried this solution with the dfa 28-105? Buying a grip is much cheaper than switching to a 24-70 although I guess I'll have to sell my current messenger bag I just got, it most definitely won't fit k-1 with the grip lol, gonna have to get a bigger one, or carry the camera with lens off..

Grip worked pretty well - also did put a home-made iron plate about i- 80 grams under it.

THANKS!

Now I just to hire a sherpa.
My Pentax MX was not that heavy (remember those times?) - however if Pentax is growing elephant I will as others use my phone.
Is there Pentax/Ricoh-phone with compur shutter?

[zapp]

So you are saying that the vibration is transferred to the tripod itself and possibly magnified? I have been realizing this recently when trying to dampen the volume of an acoustic drum kit. The nearby wall not only reflects the sound but also resonates with the sound. Special absorbant materials are required to actually absorb the sound.

All this is making me miss the leaf shutter lenses on my Mamiya RZ67. With the mirror up there is only the faint sound of a click. Pentax67 users had to deal with the vibration that the large FP shutter generated.

Which reminds me of the solution that I read in one of the forums. Pentax67 users claimed that carbon fiber tripods made a difference. Has anyone tried changing tripods and finding improvements?

Aren't all tripods carbon fiber :-)
At least they should be.

[banep]

I did not know that hand-held shots would be worse with SR on.

When shooting high speeds it is good to turn SR/VR/IS off on any camera system.
My personal preference: when it is 3x focal length or more turn off SR.