[wanderer2]

<<That depends on the lighting conditions. "Normally" I use PDAF AF-S (Single Sel) f7.1-11 and if possible/necessary a beanbag or tripod.>>

I was hoping for somewhat more detail so I'll describe my method of focusing with landscape shots which results in an almost zero frequency of out of focus images. By doing this I'm in no way implying that I'm a superior photographer or that your focusing method is wrong. This is simply what works for me for landscapes when there is no hurry so I'm passing it along. I always use a tripod.

AF-S
F5.6 - 11
Focusing when shutter button depressed half way turned off - this is very important.
Through viewfinder:
Single focus point placed on a point in the image where as much of the image as possible will be in focus.
BBF - push the AF button until the green indicator light come on, indicating focus at the focus point. If it's a manual lens rotate the
focusing ring until the in-focus light comes on. If I shoot at that point in the process, using the VF, I lock up the mirror but I usually
proceed to LV.)
Switch to LV and use focus peaking to determine where the image is in focus and where it isn't. I find focus peaking invaluable for
landscapes. Turn on ES if not already on.
Shoot (I use a remote shutter release)

(I tried to indent the above to make it more readable but it wasn't allowed, everything being moved to the left margin)

This may seem slow and laborious but for me it's worth it. There's nothing worse than shooting all day (or more), think you've got one great image you can use for a really large print, but then find the focus isn't quite spot on when the big print is viewed. Or even worse, that happened to me a few years ago when I spent the entire fall color season shooting in the Teton Range, got one image (of many dozens) I thought would be a spectacular large print, and it wasn't quite well focused. Since then I've tried to do everything possible to insure good focus.

Incidentally I find the Tamron 70-200 very sharp on the K-1 when stopped down. I have a 20X30 print of a mountain scene on my wall that is about a 1/3 crop and it's very sharp, the detail really impressive and well beyond what I thought I would get with that lens when I bought it. I don't have the newest version of the lens but rather the version previous to that. I bought it with the K-1 as a stop-gap measure until I could afford something better, then planned to sell it, but I'm keeping it.

I hope this is of some help. If you still have problems when you get the new body you might try this method. It may be overkill but better that than blurry photos. I know something was really wrong with your experience with the camera being so poor but I don't know what.

Happy future shooting.

[harpoh]

Focusing when shutter button depressed half way turned off - this is very important.

Yes, of course, I mentioned it earlier.

Single focus point placed on a point in the image where as much of the image as possible will be in focus. BBF - push the AF button until the green indicator light come on, indicating focus at the focus point.

Yes, but isn't this the way how it's done normally?

but I usually proceed to LV

No need on the K-3ii, I can get satisfying results without it.

This may seem slow and laborious

Oh yes, but this would only be manageable from a tripod/beanbag, not handheld, I suppose.

I find the Tamron 70-200 very sharp on the K-1 when stopped down

I find the Tamron 70-200 very sharp on the K-3ii even wide open (i.e. f2.8). This maybe a different story on the K-1, especially regarding the edges and corners, due to the bigger sensor?

[wanderer2]

I was simply describing my technique for focusing with landscapes on my K-1 because my experience with the camera is so different than yours and the source of your problem with getting good focus isn't clear. Thus, I thought something in what I posted might be of some help. Since it isn't I apologize for wasting your time. I find the K-1 to be a very complicated camera that takes some time to adequately learn, which I'm still doing after 1 1/2 years.

<<Single focus point placed on a point in the image where as much of the image as possible will be in focus. BBF - push the AF button until the green indicator light come on, indicating focus at the focus point.>>

<<Yes, but isn't this the way how it's done normally?>>

No, there are several variations for using the focus points, any of which could be called normal.

[harpoh]

Since it isn't I apologize for wasting your time

No need to apologize, of course, as you weren't wasting any of my time. In fact, I am very grateful for any contribution that might solve my problem. I sincerely hope (and still believe) that the problem was caused by some technical defect rather than my own inability (which I'd never rule out as a possibility).

I find the K-1 to be a very complicated camera

That gives me some hope ;-).

No, there are several variations for using the focus points, any of which could be called normal.

You are right, of course, but with a focus point placed in the center, for example, on a contrasty subject and BBF one wouldn't expect blurriness over the entire frame.

Well, if the replacement shows the same kind of 'behaviour', it has to be me. Damn, postwoman just rang - no K-1 today.

[wanderer2]

Damn, postwoman just rang - no K-1 today.

You have a very interesting situation. When you've used the replacement please let us know what the answer/solution turns out to be.

[harpoh]

You have a very interesting situation

:-) She rang only once!

I'll let you know!

[wanderer2]

:-) She rang only once!

You mean it isn't true that the postman always rings twice???????????? Oh, it was a postwoman - so they must not ring twice!!

[harpoh]

they must not ring twice

Sounds like a very promising title for a probably very awful sequel! Anyway, I'll do the casting...

[harpoh]

The replacement has arrived. What I can tell so far from some 100 quick and dirty test photos is that there is a visible improvement: reasonably sharp images (beanbag + PDAF/CDAF) at shutter speeds even around 1/100, so no shutter shake, as it seems. Didn't check on my other two FF lenses yet. Weather is terrible, not too cold (+5), but light like a greyscale. No good testing conditions at all. If of any interest I can provide you with further info later.
So, this is not bad news. The K-1 will probably stay and I save a bucket of cash as I can now hardly justify the purchase of a D850, that amazing beast.

One more thing which is of some importance to me. I find that the BG6 doesn't fit as well as the D-BG5 does on the K-3. There's even a small gap between grip and camera which as I've learned in an other thread is a feature ;-). I don't know, it seems a bit cheapish to me + through that gap dust and dirt may enter.
Is that a common thing or are there any of you whose grips fit closely to the body? In that case I'd take my chances and ask for a replacement.

[jatrax]

What I can tell so far from some 100 quick and dirty test photos is that there is a visible improvement: reasonably sharp images (beanbag + PDAF/CDAF) at shutter speeds even around 1/100, so no shutter shake, as it seems.

That is good news. It has been somewhat confusing with some people reporting this shutter shake issue and others with the same lens and configuration seeing nothing at all. Glad your new camera is working out better and perhaps this is an issue that affects only an occasional body.

[awscreo]

Too late to do anything with the combo for me, too much time has passed :/ Probably will end up selling the 28-105 and get 24-70 when I get a chance.

[wanderer2]

: reasonably sharp images (beanbag + PDAF/CDAF)

FWIW, I think you should expect better than this, that images with good glass should be well beyond reasonably sharp. I've never used a bean bag but I assume the shake reduction should be turned off when using it, like with a tripod. I know you said in your OP that you turned SR off as recommended but it's easy to forget (at least for me) so I thought I would mention it but am not meaning to insult your technique. The improvement certainly might mean that the original camera was faulty. It's just that I feel the results should still be better. Perhaps with the other lenses it will be.

Regarding the D850, I've never used one but my conclusion after reading several reviews and accounts of experiences with the camera is that it's great but it doesn't seem to me that it's better than a K-1 for landscape use. Several sources have commented that the Pixel Shift Resolution of the K-1 results in as good or better landscape images than the D850.

Please continue to keep us posted. This is an interesting mystery.

[harpoh]

images with good glass should be well beyond reasonably sharp

You are right, for sure, but as I said, the weather yesterday was horrible, as it is today. When I look into my garden it's almost a b/w image. I keep looking forward to better conditions which will let the K-1 shine (stupid pun).

Perhaps with the other lenses it will be.

I'll give them a try later today. Wait, there is something else these days, what is it? Anyway, I'll check the Tammies with LV, too, as you recommended.

I've never used a bean bag

It's not such bad idea, really. One may not want to always carry a tripod, but a beanbag can be stowed away quite easily + emptied/refilled quickly (mine's a ricebag, actually). It can give the camera a firm rest if there's a wall or anything similar at the shooting site.
You're right. Didn't turn SR off, maybe I should. When shooting from a tripod I couldn't forget that, because with IR remote/self timer the camera does it for me.

Several sources have commented that the Pixel Shift Resolution of the K-1 results in as good or better landscape images than the D850.

I read that, too. Still, I think that the conditions for PS to be fully usable are quite limited (no wind, tripod) + a bit tedious PP. I find myself using PS not that often. But still, the results one can achieve from either camera probably don't differ that much (for landscape, at least).

[texandrews]

I've never used a bean bag but I assume the shake reduction should be turned off when using it, like with a tripod.

I'm not so sure about that. A tripod is a hard contact, and a good one (excepting the good travel ones, which might be good but are still a bit light) is going to be very solid. A bean bag, OTOH, should at least partially mimic the palm of a hand. It might not be waving around like a hand, but it's a soft contact. So I'd say extensive testing is warranted before anything can be said for sure.

[scopedude]

I know I might sound like a Pentax hater when talking about the shutter shock, but this problem could not even be more real. During my last fall trip to France and Germany, I lost too many shots due to the vibrations from 1/60 - 1/200. When I dug the past datas from my 5 other trips since May 2016, I found most of the shots taken with the 28-105 at those shutter speeds are blurred. What's interesting, the more recent the shots, the more noticeable the blurring.

So last month, together with the Pentax distributor I conducted controlled test using my K1, 28-105 and 24-70, with/wihout SR, all shots were done with LV and OV. Focal length tested were only 24 and 28mm. The result was, the shutter shock is real. All the LV shots were tack sharp, the OV shots were blurred. The pentax distributor agrees that this is a big issue, but as usual, they are waiting for what Pentax has to say.

I've been waiting since January (first time I reported this issue), and I don't enjoy taking shots at arm's length with my K1 so I sold it. I'm keeping the lenses though. Got some true keepers.

Now the A7Riii arrived (after battling between it and D850) and it will share some lenses with my 5DSr.

I think not all K1 users are unlucky, many seem perform well without any noticeable issue