Originally posted by Sandy Hancock You're kidding, surely. View my image in Flickr at 2048 pixels wide - it's pretty sharp.
I didn't say your image wasn't sharp. I absolutely agree it's sharp. I only said that it can't fully be evaluated at that resolution
Quote: Remember, this thread is about IBIS, not about high ISO noise or lens resolution.
I am aware. However, at full resolution, blurring clearly shows in my K-1 II 2s shots, which doesn't show in the K-1 II 0.5s or 0.5s shots.
If you shrink all 3 of these images to HD resolution (about 2MP), they are practically indistinguishable. At 4MP, the 2s looks blurred, others look fine.
But at 36MP at 1:1 resolution with the monitor, you can very clearly see the effect of the shaking in the 2s shot. And to a lesser extent the 0.5s and 1s shots too.
In the 1/40s shot, you can read the titles of all the books, but there is more noise. The point of the stabilizer is to use a lower shutter speed to get more light and a cleaner, sharper image, than you might achieve without stabilizer.
In my case, 2s is not really needed to get enough light. Shooting between 1/4 and 1/20 would produce a picture with less blur than the 0.5s - 2s shots. Ie. it would be a sharper picture.
And it would also have less noise than the 1/40s picture, due to lower corresponding ISO, if aperture was wider. Bracketing in Tv mode, based on shutter speed, might more most sense. That would leave both aperture and ISO up to the camera, though.
Bracketing in Tv mode with fixed ISO would change just aperture as function of shutter speed. I'm actually going to try that now.
So, resolution is related to IBIS, IMO. If you intend to do large prints, or print from crops, then resolution matters. You need to pixel peep for those cases, and have a better IBIS if you have a higher-resolution sensor, than for a small sensor.
Seems like Pentax certainly has that in the K-1 II vs the GX85 sensor
Quote: Do I need a flickr account to do that ? I don't have one. I can't see a way to download the full resolution file.