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05-21-2018, 10:55 AM - 5 Likes   #76
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I do not believe in all the reviews. I sold K-1 and bought K-1 II.


benefits for K-1 II:
- accurate AF-S (no hunting), better AF-C (only about 5% of inaccurate focused photos)......but only for spot AF point and A-9/SEL-2 mode
- Pixel Shift Resolution to be used handheld without artefacts
- K-1 II ISO 16.000 look like ISO 12.800 on K-1


on the left K-1 II, on the right K-1....the same lens, the same settings (DNG, NR OFF.....export from Adobe Lightroom CC2015 without adjustments)
AF-C SEL-2, ISO 1.250, Tamron AF SP 70-200mm f/2,8 Di LD (IF) Macro

AF-S spot AF, ISO 6.400, Pentax HD PENTAX-D FA 150-450mm f/4.5-5.6 ED DC AW



I would buy K-1 II again if someone asked me.


Last edited by lennyl; 05-21-2018 at 11:03 AM.
05-21-2018, 11:05 AM - 4 Likes   #77
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
I meant that field curvature is bad at MFD. No stopping down fixes it, just masks it a bit. Thus, Irix is not a good candidate for super near-to-far focus stacking. Focus plane changes so much from MFD to Infinity.

Pentax 15-30 is better in such case. Or, Nikkor 14-24, Samyang 14mm, Samyang 10/2.8 CS or Zeiss 15mm. Those are UWA lenses I have used for similar purpose.
While I understand you sticking to your facts, you do realize the MFD (minimum focus distance) we are talking about where this effect is noted is 11.02 inches!

I didn't buy this lens to use it as a macro... but as a night sky or landscape lens, when I want to include some foreground interest and have max DOF with the background also in focus, you would have to be in diffraction territory by the time you stop it down enough to have 11" to infinity in focus. Much more common would be to have something a few feet away as your foreground interest, and use a reasonable f11 to f16 and have all in focus. At that point, the edges are also away and in proper focus because of distance to film plane is negligibly different.

I really think this whole review is picking nits. If Irix had just limited the focus throw so minimum focus distance was limited to where the effect didn't exist, like 18 inches or wherever it is, we prolly wouldn't be having this discussion. I would still take a sharp center with soft edge at 11 inches over the losing the ability to focus close at all, or worse yet, have the mustache distortion of Samyang 14mm on horizon and at all distances , not just minimum focus distance! And even then, the Samyang lens profile correction does only a poor job of correcting the mustache warp and doesn't really get rid of all of it... at best you still have a ripple.

Different strokes for different folks.

Eric
05-21-2018, 11:17 AM   #78
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Not so easy. Problems start at 1-2 meter distance. What is sharp at center is far off for the edges and corners. When you approach MFD from there this effect is amplified.

Why is this an issue for star trails stacking? I like to have something near camera and include in the composition sometimes framing the star circle. So, a star circle photo becomes also focus stack. I got better results with KP and Samyang 10/2.8 CS doing this so you may or may not understand my disappointment.
05-21-2018, 11:35 AM   #79
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
Not so easy. Problems start at 1-2 meter distance. What is sharp at center is far off for the edges and corners. When you approach MFD from there this effect is amplified.

Why is this an issue for star trails stacking? I like to have something near camera and include in the composition sometimes framing the star circle. So, a star circle photo becomes also focus stack. I got better results with KP and Samyang 10/2.8 CS doing this so you may or may not understand my disappointment.

Wow, you had this effect starting 1-2 meter??!! Was it 1 meter, or 2?, inches matter when we are talking this kind of effect... Oh well, at any rate, I'd send it back if mine started showing the effect that far away (and mine doesn't) Maybe you got a bad one that was dropped or made on a Friday afternoon?

Worth noting - many have noticed that having a filter on the UWA can make this blurred edge effect happen at close distances. Did you use a filter on yours when you noticed this?
I've seen some UWA when used with a filter so bad, it looked like the old zoom motion effect people used to do on purpose, where they would zoom a lens during long exposure and the edges almost looked like motion blur.

Eric

05-21-2018, 12:33 PM   #80
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Hmh...yes! I bought Irix Polarizer 95mm filter. It is possible it causes unwanted effects. I had it on the lens in all occasions to remove reflections. I will test without it and make a new thread about it anyway. Does not belong here.

This my 2nd copy. I already returned one as it arrived with loose rear cap and broken aperture lever

Anyways...even with the CPL I do get sharp edges if I focus there in live view. So far, Helicon Focus and Photoshop have been unable to do the focus stack. Lets see if CPL causes this or not.
05-21-2018, 02:29 PM   #81
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QuoteOriginally posted by lennyl Quote
I do not believe in all the reviews. I sold K-1 and bought K-1 II.


benefits for K-1 II:
- accurate AF-S (no hunting), better AF-C (only about 5% of inaccurate focused photos)......but only for spot AF point and A-9/SEL-2 mode
- Pixel Shift Resolution to be used handheld without artefacts
- K-1 II ISO 16.000 look like ISO 12.800 on K-1
.
Lenny, I appreciate your comments! Thank you for taking the time to post them. It is so very nice to hear from someone on this forum who has experience with BOTH the original K1 and the new K1 II !

The improved ISO and AF-S are something I've read from other photographers who have used both cameras.

However, I don't believe that I've read much about the Pixel Shift of the original K1 compared to the new dynamic Pixel Shift of the new K1 II. If you have the time, I would love to hear your comments comparing the two versions of Pixel Shift found on each camera. Maybe even start a new thread on this subject?
05-21-2018, 08:32 PM   #82
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Yes, thank you Lenny. The license plate picture is a particularly good test sample. Looks to me that at 6400, the Mk2 has not only less noise, but more detail.
05-21-2018, 10:15 PM - 6 Likes   #83
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Fenwoodian: I do not have K-1 anymore :-(


I just tried to compare with K-1 II classical Pixel Shift from tripod (motion correction ON/OFF), handheld Pixel Shift Resolution, handheld ES (electronic shutter) and handheld normal shot.


full scene - K-1 II + FA43



normal shot - electronic shutter - Pixel Shift from tripod motion correction ON



Pixel Shift from tripod motion correction ON - handheld Pixel Shift Resolution



Pixel Shift from tripod motion correction ON - Pixel Shift from tripod motion correction OFF - handheld Pixel Shift Resolution



for me, the best is classical PS from tripod, but handheld PS is also OK. so no big surprise.


but what surprised me was the AF with K-1 II (this I absolutely did not shoot so well with K-1) look at the photos, in different light (sunny, cloudy, in shadow, fluorescent light, at night):
AF-S, spot AF (a small photographed subject and far from me)
FA77/1,9 Limited


FA135/2,8

HD DFA 28-105/3,5-5,6 WR




AF-S, spot AF with composition change, FA77/1,8 Limited @f2,2




AF-C, SEL-2
FA77/1,9 Limited @f2,2







the weak is only 4.4fps and a small buffer






AF-S, spot AF, FA43/1,9 Limited @f2,2
lights off in the office, ISO 3.200

photo taken through a double glass in the window with reflections from inside, ISO 2.500

AF-S, spot AF, FA31/1,8 Limited ISO 16.000 (@f10 due to the ISO test)


I hope that K-1 will also get firmware with AF algorithms from K-1 II :-)
...so where are the bad results from Dpreview?

PS: I'm sorry for my English


Last edited by lennyl; 05-21-2018 at 11:25 PM.
05-21-2018, 11:25 PM - 1 Like   #84
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QuoteOriginally posted by lennyl Quote
Fenwoodian: I do not have K-1 anymore :-(


I just tried to compare with K-1 II classical Pixel Shift from tripod (motion correction ON/OFF), handheld Pixel Shift Resolution, handheld ES (electronic shutter) and handheld normal shot.


full scene - K-1 II + FA43



normal shot - electronic shutter - Pixel Shift from tripod motion correction ON



Pixel Shift from tripod motion correction ON - handheld Pixel Shift Resolution



Pixel Shift from tripod motion correction ON - Pixel Shift from tripod motion correction OFF - handheld Pixel Shift Resolution



for me, the best is classical PS from tripod, but handheld PS is also OK. so no big surprise.


but what surprised me was the AF with K-1 II (this I absolutely did not shoot so well with K-1) look at the photos, in different light (sunny, cloudy, in shadow, fluorescent light, at night):
AF-S, spot AF (a small photographed subject and far from me)
FA77/1,9 Limited


FA135/2,8

HD DFA 28-105/3,5-5,6 WR




AF-S, spot AF with composition change, FA77/1,8 Limited @f2,2




AF-C, SEL-2
FA77/1,9 Limited @f2,2











AF-S, spot AF, FA43/1,9 Limited @f2,2
lights off in the office, ISO 3.200

photo taken through a double glass in the window with reflections from inside, ISO 2.500

AF-S, spot AF, FA31/1,8 Limited ISO 16.000 (@f10 due to the ISO test)


I hope that K-1 will also get firmware with AF algorithms from K-1 II :-)
...so where are the bad results from Dpreview?

PS: I'm sorry for my English
Thank you, I'm finally sold on upgrade to mk2
05-22-2018, 03:23 AM   #85
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
.... So, a star circle photo becomes also focus stack. ....
The terrestrial portion of your scene is basically a landscape. If you use wider apertures at night, as do some photographers, how much of the terrestrial portion do you expect to have in critical focus to meet exacting standards without focus stacking?

If you stop down at night, I think this lens still will not meet your standards even with focus stacking. Finishing the stack, even well stopped down, at 1 meter to 11 cm will still give you soft edges...

I know I am only further side tracking this thread but I am curious.. fascinated, really... I have read comments about your exacting standards but haven't yet been part of a thread as your requirements are explained. Is this side thread a rabbit hole?
05-22-2018, 03:57 AM   #86
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That is why I do focus stack. Approximating with hyperfocal is a non-solution at night due to extremely long exp. times when stopped down. I use near wide open and focus each area separately where I want critical sharpness. No guessing but pure accuracy.
05-23-2018, 12:16 AM - 1 Like   #87
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AFaccuracy is improved

I've been to my camera store to try the MkII, spent only 15-20 mins handling the camera and I took some photo on my own SD Card.

Before this session, I was not convinced I would pay 500 to upgrade my K1. Im not using PS because lack of software support and handheld PS is not a feature Im looking for. Also the ISO improvement is welcome but not really worth the upgrade price IMHO.
My idea was to wait for Pentax Next FF camera.

Well, I tried the MkII with my own Pentax 24-70mm lens, with my own Pentax 70-200mm and with the store 150-450mm lenses.
My only intent was to check AF in AF-C mode, and AF-S to a lesser degree.

I noticed from the very first shots that the AF improvement is real !
Test was made with Cars coming toward and away from me at 50km/h, and the AF really better tracked the cars, especially with the 70-200mm. I also tried PIF (Pidgeons in flight ) and notice the same thing, tracking has been really improved.
When back home I checked the pics and AF was spot on most of the times. Let's say I shot a full buffer of RAW files and I had only 1 or 2 frames OOF with the 70-200mm, around 2 or 3 with the 24-70mm.

Long story short, Im sold on the MkII
It might be purely placebo effect or some overreacting from me but Im surprised Pentax did not really push forward the AF improvement.

On a side note, right after testing the MkII I tried the Sony A7R3 with the 24-70mm GM lens. Same testing, same cars, same lighting...Well Pentax has a long way to go in terms of AF speed
But I really did not like the EVF ... this is the deal breaker for me...oh and the prices of the lenses as well...

---------- Post added 23-05-18 at 09:22 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
I meant that field curvature is bad at MFD. No stopping down fixes it, just masks it a bit. Thus, Irix is not a good candidate for super near-to-far focus stacking. Focus plane changes so much from MFD to Infinity.

Pentax 15-30 is better in such case. Or, Nikkor 14-24, Samyang 14mm, Samyang 10/2.8 CS or Zeiss 15mm. Those are UWA lenses I have used for similar purpose.
I think the lens you are mentioning are not in the same Price range at all, thus the comparison seems little weird to me.
05-23-2018, 12:40 AM   #88
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QuoteOriginally posted by Erictator Quote
When I first got my K-1, coming from a K-5 classic, I was surprised a little by the amount of noise at base iso and 100% viewing compared to the K-5
I said that when I received my K-1 two years ago, but nobody listened...
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