[gerardbaron]

How do you deal with highlights and shadow with the K1 in RAW format.
Too much difference.
I try to expose for the highlights then the shadows are too dark. OK, I can recover in Lightroom
But is there any setting on the camera to speed up the process.
Thanks

[Adam]

Yes, there is both shadow and highlight recovery in-camera. Using highlight recovery will underexpose by a stop, then lift shadows (thus affecting raw files). Shadow recovery is just a direct boost to the shadows, similar to what you're already doing. It doesn't affect raw image data.

At the end of the day you'll get better results and more control by doing this yourself. It shouldn't be too time-consuming if you have a good workflow, but you could of course rely on the OOC jpeg files for photos that aren't problematic.

[BigMackCam]

Too much difference.
I try to expose for the highlights then the shadows are too dark.

You'd have the same problem with any camera for scenes with a very wide dynamic range.

You could take three bracketed shots and combine them in Lightroom to one HDR image (that would be my preferred approach), or alternatively use the camera's HDR mode to do the same thing

[aurele]

Expose a bit less for the highlight ? The k1 has a very good room for recovery in both highlights and shadow, and it would balanced a bit more the whole process i guess .

[Tan68]

If you ask for a quicker way to expose to the right, you could try this.

Use
Manual exposure mode
Exposure Compensation = +3
Spot Meter mode
[ + this is not a formula guaranteed to work; you will still have to chimp ]
Position the spot meter frame on the lightest part of the scene (light/white stuff, clouds, etc) and press the Green button. This will set your exposure and add +3 stops.

The camera will likely not recover 3 stops of highlights but white/light stuffs tend to meter a little dark so +3 stops EC is enough to both offset this tendency and expose a bit brighter to shift the histogram right.

I found +3 worked okay with the K20. You would have to experiment to determine exactly what the K-1 tolerates. The K-1 could tolerate more +EC; I don't know. Clouds on a sunny day to do this should work well for experimentation.

A few points that you may already know :
Do not forget to reset Exposure Compensation if you want use regular Manual mode.
(or set up a Custom User register)
Do use the R,G,B histograms when reviewing images in-camera
(clipping a channel when ETTR is a risk, of course, & beware reds)
Do ignore specular highlights...
(realize what the blinking highlights warning is telling you when reviewing images)

The in-camera review and histogram results are based on your JPG image settings. If you like this method and always use RAW, set up your JPG image to be bland. Use Natural image mode with low contrast and less clarity and less whatever. [ + I use these settings for RAW even when not doing ETTR ] Bright JPG, etc will tend to show clipped highlights and histograms when it aint necessarily so when working with RAW.

I don't know how to set up this method for K-1 because I haven't used it since K20. With K20, I felt like careful exposure was very often necessary. With K5 and its greater DR, such careful exposure is not as necessary... so, I ETTR as Expose Toward The Right. I don't E-To-TR. I am much more conservative with highlights and my color channels thank me.

Doing ETTR (either the classic or my definition) will always be slow. It will be slow on the road and in PP. I only go into E-To-TR slow motion mode when I think I will really benefit from it : interior scene with windows , snow & shadows , black & white dog , etc.

[Ian Stuart Forsyth]

When people think of exposing for the highlight they are doing so wrongly, when exposing for highlight you want to place the areas in the scene and those highlight to the point that you don’t blow them in the raw file.

Here is your problem, what the raw file can store and how close it comes to clipping is really hidden to the user thru what camera manufactures have built into the camera. Let’s start with the cameras histogram, one of the major design flaws of the histogram is that it’s based on the jpg rendering. Because it’s based on that rendering the processing of the raw data will influence what is shown in the histogram. Take for example WB often times when looking at red in the histogram it looks as if the red channel is clipping but the problem lies in that the red channel is being multiplied more than the green and blue channels to achieve the correct WB. This make it appear as the red channel is closer to clipping when in fact most of the shooting condition you are shooting the red channels is usually 1-3 stops from clipping. To solve this if you want to see how the channels look without this multiplication you might want to setup a UniWB. This is a WB that does not multiply any of the color channels and gives you a better representation of how the channel are captured in the raw file.

Next flaw with the histogram of the camera is that camera manufactures have built in highlight headroom this will vary from camera manufactures, even cameras within the same company and even within the same camera at different iso setting.
To really know what is happening with the raw data you must first be able to see that data. Once you know what the headroom was built into the camera you can override this headroom by adding +EV to your cameras metering system, most importantly where the highlight falls and the clipping point falls on your camera metering system. Once yo know this you can simply place your spot metering point over what you want near to clipping.
This will give you best exposure for both the highlights and the shadows as you have best aligned the DR of the scene with that of what the camera can store. This is done by not blowing the highlight while at the same time gather more light information in the shadows.

Do not use a raw converter as a way to see what is contained in the raw data as its histogram is also influenced by the settings of that raw converter and that highlight headroom decided by the camera manufactures , you can test this by adjusting your WB and watch as the channels move and even clip in the converters histogram.
One of the raw viewers I use is fastrawviewer