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06-07-2018, 08:45 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by D1N0 Quote
I was hoping using manual lenses would become easier on the K-1 than it is on an aps-c camera because of the bigger OVF. Actually it has become much harder to get focus right. PDAF Focus confirmation is not reliable and cannot be calibrated for manual lenses so i don't use that.


reason for this is.

A: the (relative to the frame) depth of field of is narrower because it is not magnified by crop view.

B. viewfinder magnification is 0.7 instead of 0.92 on the K-5

This makes focussing with the K-1 kind of hit or miss.

Of course the movable screen is very handy to get stuff in focus, but holding a camera like that makes it much more prone to shake, so I have to use higher shutter speeds. Also I feel like some phone shooter when I do that.
I don’t recall what setting I used to make this happen, but when I manual focus on my K1, the viewfinder flashes red when focus is achieved, The K1 is a bit dimmer than the K5, and I think the screen is a bit smoother. It is definitely not as nice for focusing as the K5, even with the bigger view.
OTOH, I was photographing a deer today that wandered into the forest near me with an A*600mm f/5.6 lens and was having no problem securing focus.
The trick is to move just past focus and then back, You will see the image snap into focus and then back out. It makes it much easier to see it snap back in.

06-28-2018, 01:09 PM   #17
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I am now pretty sure my focussing screen is front focussing. This pretty much sucks because Ricoh doesn't supply focussing screen shims to consumers anymore. I wonder whether this can be fixed under Warranty.
06-29-2018, 06:13 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by D1N0 Quote
I am now pretty sure my focussing screen is front focussing
You can do a test to establish this. Put the camera on a tripod and use a test chart. Focus manually , then switch to Live View. If the LV image consistently shows front-focus then you may be correct in your assumption.

It would help if you can try different lenses to confirm. There is of course the possibility that your eyes are not what they used to be. Can you try out a different K1 at a local camera shop ?
06-29-2018, 06:29 PM   #19
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Adjusting the diopter could help also. You could get correct focus using live view then adjust the diopter till the focus is the same in the viewfinder.

06-29-2018, 06:42 PM   #20
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@D1N0 I have found the K-1 OVF a godsend with my K lenses compared to the K-3 and my KP. I don’t use the focus confirmation. I use the same technique I do with matte screen film cameras - once nearly in good focus I jog the helicoid back and forth until I can SEE I am in focus. I can actually SEE edges and zones of focus ‘snap’ in the OVF (some lenses are better at this than others, of course). For critical focus on a tripod I use the tilting screen and a viewfinder loupe, but Pentax Live View outlines are often not very distinct.
06-29-2018, 07:23 PM   #21
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I use the same technique as monochrome. Dialling in the right dioptre on the eyepiece is crucial. Having high quality, fast lenses also helps.

Add the O-ME53 and manual focus is vastly easier than it was on any of my crop cameras.
06-30-2018, 03:31 AM   #22
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I am using an O-ME53 already. Especially when focussing on subjects at a distance the focus is consistently in front of the subject.

07-07-2018, 10:33 AM   #23
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You would need a decent focussing screen and shims. Worked OK for me on K5/K3 - replace screen and shim correctly afterwards, but it's over with K1.
07-08-2018, 02:29 AM   #24
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Good rear lcd loupe worked nicely with Canon 5D2 back some years ago. I do not see why it would not work with K-1. Sure enough, it makes the combo "huge" but such is life.

You use liveview to compose and focus in this method.
07-08-2018, 04:46 AM   #25
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Maybe I'll order a S-type focussing screen: Focusing Screen I believe they come with a few shims.
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