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06-26-2018, 10:31 PM   #16
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Bit first and foremost, some pictures and exif data would really help....

06-26-2018, 11:30 PM   #17
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Your K-1 is not the problem.

I suggest: adapted manual-focus Zeiss ZF Milvus prime lenses, tripod, remote release, live view, Zacuto viewfinder, base ISO.
06-27-2018, 02:15 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Fenwoodian Quote
.
Your K-1 is not the problem.

I suggest: adapted manual-focus Zeiss ZF Milvus prime lenses, tripod, remote release, live view, Zacuto viewfinder, base ISO.
Uhm... a cheap solution, if anything!
06-27-2018, 02:25 AM   #19
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Post a photo or two and we can try to give input on what might be detracting from it. I really don't think it is a gear issue though. What you have isn't the very top end, but it should be more than adequate to give you satisfactory photos.

06-27-2018, 06:35 AM - 1 Like   #20
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OP, are you still here? Please do not be intimidated by all the advice. Everyone just wants to help you get enjoyment from your camera. Please post a photo or two so folks can offer specific suggestions.
06-27-2018, 11:57 AM - 1 Like   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by LensBeginner Quote
Uhm... a cheap solution, if anything!
A Pentax K-1 camera with grip, batteries, etc. will cost north of $2,000 USD .

I just don't understand folks like you who insist on using, as you say "cheap" glass on such an outstanding full frame digital camera.


I guess if you're just posting to the Internet/social-media, there's no need for premium glass. But if that's all you aspire too, then why buy a K-1 in the first place?


But for those of us who primarily use their K-1's for making large prints and other serious work, there's no substitute for premium lenses - which usually are not cheap.
06-27-2018, 12:53 PM - 1 Like   #22
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no sense giving advice until OP posts the problematic images. C'mon and show us the problem...operators are standing by.


06-27-2018, 01:29 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Fenwoodian Quote
A Pentax K-1 camera with grip, batteries, etc. will cost north of $2,000 USD .

I just don't understand folks like you who insist on using, as you say "cheap" glass on such an outstanding full frame digital camera.


*snip*
No, you're right, but I was under the impression that the 50/1.4 costed more.
It's about the same price as the new Pentax, so no issues there
06-27-2018, 02:22 PM - 1 Like   #24
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i'd suggest to shoot at slower shutter speeds, allowing for ISO to be dropped.
and shoot in well light areas.


more i'm dealing with photography, more i'm realizing how overrated 'tack sharp' photos are. so long as i can make out what the subject is, i dont really care if i can see every fiber of the subject if i zoom in and pixel peep
06-27-2018, 11:28 PM   #25
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Thank you all for your replies. Unfortunately for me noone seems to blame my camera equipment so there won't be an easy fix for me. I have a lot to think about as it seems to me that the best solution to my poor picture quality is to continue to educate myself and practice, practice, practice. I do have to be aware of the limitations of my technic and my lenses. I do hope I can develope the skills I see in other Pentaxians photographies. I too want to be able to get those sharp, no-noise photos that I know the K-1 is capable of.


Have a nice photographic summer you all!
06-28-2018, 12:17 AM - 3 Likes   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Hildalill Quote
Thank you all for your replies. Unfortunately for me noone seems to blame my camera equipment so there won't be an easy fix for me. I have a lot to think about as it seems to me that the best solution to my poor picture quality is to continue to educate myself and practice, practice, practice. I do have to be aware of the limitations of my technic and my lenses. I do hope I can develope the skills I see in other Pentaxians photographies. I too want to be able to get those sharp, no-noise photos that I know the K-1 is capable of.


Have a nice photographic summer you all!
But we can help.

Where's your portfolio, or Instagram or Flickr or 500pix feed or whatever?

Even the gallery you're entitled to here, if you have none of those things. Just upload, say, the last ten photos you took of different scenes.

We will be able to tell a surprising amount from them.

Your photography won't get better because your family and friends give likes to everything you put up. A review by other photographers is something even pros can put themselves through, paying handsomely for the privilege, by the way.

Last edited by clackers; 06-28-2018 at 02:24 AM.
06-28-2018, 01:59 AM - 1 Like   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
But we can help.

Where's your portfolio, or Instagram or Flickr or 500pix feed or whatever?

Even the gallery you're entitled to here, if you have none of those things. Just upload, say, the last ten photos you took of different scenes.

We will be able to tell a surprising amount from them.

Your photography won't get better because your family and friends give likes to everything you put up. A review by other photographers is something even pros can put themselves through, paying for the privilege.
Seconding that. Constructive (and destructive as well ) criticism is often the best and quickest way to improve.
I tried that on my skin first.
06-28-2018, 04:48 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by LensBeginner Quote
Seconding that. Constructive (and destructive as well ) criticism is often the best and quickest way to improve.
I tried that on my skin first.
(Laughs)

Yeah, so if Martin Schoeller paid a thousand dollars to Annie Liebovitz to do a peer review (a bargain, but perhaps a favour since he used to be her assistant), she might select twenty of thirty pics to make up his portfolio this year, explaining why they're good. Very touchy feely.

Another pro might instead say which ten to leave out, explaining why they're bad. Brutal.

Surely, a mixed approach is best for most people.
06-28-2018, 04:51 PM   #29
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Tripod helps, also using higher shutter speeds. My k-1 shows shutter shock effects under 1/250, so I try to avoid using those while hand holding. When I'm on a tripod, I use sharpest apertures (usually f8-11), and Electronic shutter that eliminates shutter shock effects.

---------- Post added 06-28-18 at 05:02 PM ----------

Seriously though - I just got back from a 2 day trip to Boston. Day 1 - few times I forgot about keeping the shutter speed higher I ended up with images that were visibly softer. Every time shutter speed was above 1/250 (or below 1/25, which is when IBIS really helps a ton) images were crisp and very very sharp (with DFA 28-105). That's my experience. I'm guessing other lenses have slight variations on shutter speed ranges that work best for them, but I basically stopped using anything between 1/25 and 1/250 and my results improved in sharpness. I'd at least try using higher shutter speed and higher f-stop values to reach peak performance for the lens, see if that works or not. My experience might not be applicable to others, I only seen a few people mentioning similar issues, so YMMV. All of this applies only to hand-holding the camera. While on tripod - ES fixes all issues for me.

Last edited by awscreo; 06-28-2018 at 05:03 PM.
06-29-2018, 12:08 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
(Laughs)

Yeah, so if Martin Schoeller paid a thousand dollars to Annie Liebovitz to do a peer review (a bargain, but perhaps a favour since he used to be her assistant), she might select twenty of thirty pics to make up his portfolio this year, explaining why they're good. Very touchy feely.

Another pro might instead say which ten to leave out, explaining why they're bad. Brutal.

Surely, a mixed approach is best for most people.
...a mixed approach sounds reasonable
Besides nor I nor - I suppose - the OP are Schoeller or Leibowitz or McNally or McCurry...
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