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07-02-2018, 03:19 AM   #16
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Did you have exposure bracketing on? Anyhow, JPEG settings are related. So, put some low contrast settings in there and you may get an approximation of usable post-processing push/pull capability. Increasing sharpness of JPEG makes it a tiny bit easier to see what is in focus and whatnot when zooming around.

07-02-2018, 06:29 AM   #17
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The other thing I'd say relative to the histogram and the K-1 is that at least for landscapes, I no longer follow the "Expose to the Right" rule. The dynamic range of the K-1 is so good, and it's so easy to pull details out of shadows, particularly with pixel shift, that I actually probably tend more to Expose to the Left. I'd much rather bring up shadows than deal with blown highlights.
07-02-2018, 09:11 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by SteveinSLC Quote
The other thing I'd say relative to the histogram and the K-1 is that at least for landscapes, I no longer follow the "Expose to the Right" rule. The dynamic range of the K-1 is so good, and it's so easy to pull details out of shadows, particularly with pixel shift, that I actually probably tend more to Expose to the Left. I'd much rather bring up shadows than deal with blown highlights.
Agreed---I do this with my Z as well. But I still do follow the ETTR "rule" in general principal. It's where more info is if done right. The problem is that both my K1 (to a lesser degree) and my Z will blow highlights easily if you don't watch it. But I have come to the conclusion that there's some sort of metering or sensor/processing bias in the cameras, and that "correct" neutral exposure in them is actually a little hot. So, I either dial in negative exp. comp. up to 1 stop if my light is bright and consistent and/or I'm in some mode other than manual, or I just watch the bars when I shoot manually (pretty much all the time now...)and shoot when the bars are on the left. Works for me.
07-04-2018, 06:12 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
Today I was outdoors in nature, and when I wanted to take some photographs in live view mode using Av, Tv and TAV, the histogram displayed on the LCD showed saturating highlights regardless of exposure settings, in order to check if I could move the histogram by changing the dialing down the exposure, the histogram stays the same (stuck at the right side) and after I took the shot I could verify that the histogram went on the left side and that the shot was underexposed. To me it looks like a bug. I tried again at home and the histogram of the shot is the same as the histogram of the live view display. Did anyone experience the same issue. For me, that raises the question of the usability of the histogram displayed in live view.
This baffles me. I routinely use LV as the last step in my procedure for shooting landscapes (on a tripod) to check focusing using image magnification and focus peaking, and lastly check the histogram which I've found useful. In many hundreds of shots I've never encountered anything like this. I certainly can't offer an explanation or solution but can only comment I think what's described above is highly anomalous. Perhaps contacting Ricoh or a repair facility is indicated?

07-04-2018, 12:13 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by wanderer2 Quote
Perhaps contacting Ricoh or a repair facility is indicated?
It could be that the firmware wasn't working normally because I wasn't able to reproduce the histogram shift to the right. I shouild have switched off the camera , removed the battery, backin again and restart the camera.
07-04-2018, 01:28 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
It could be that the firmware wasn't working normally because I wasn't able to reproduce the histogram shift to the right. I shouild have switched off the camera , removed the battery, backin again and restart the camera.
The universal repair technique!
07-04-2018, 10:36 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by SteveinSLC Quote
The other thing I'd say relative to the histogram and the K-1 is that at least for landscapes, I no longer follow the "Expose to the Right" rule. The dynamic range of the K-1 is so good, and it's so easy to pull details out of shadows, particularly with pixel shift, that I actually probably tend more to Expose to the Left. I'd much rather bring up shadows than deal with blown highlights.
I have to laugh a little. About half the people who use the term ETTR are intentionally underexposing to avoid highlight clipping. I know...that is technically ETTL, but go figure. I will confess to not keeping the two straight, at least partially because I don't approach exposure that way.

As for low end dynamic range, that sort of a strange one. There is never more that 14 stops on the K-1 and often less depending on where exposure is placed. The shadow threshold (point of black clipping) depends on how much light strikes the sensor during exposure in combination with sensor gain. If it takes 500 photons (example only) for the A/D converter to set that single bit out of 14, that is the point of clipping and anything less will never be more than black regardless of how much pulling of low values is applied in PP. The K-1 sensor is very good at light capture, but it does have its limits. If it appears there is more than about 10 stops range within the frame, HDR is preferable to clipping either extreme. Alternatively, decide which to sacrifice -- shadows or highlights.


Steve

07-04-2018, 10:39 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mikesul Quote
The universal repair technique!
No, the universal technique is to do a full reset followed by battery removal followed a sequence of SD card format steps.


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07-05-2018, 12:49 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
Today I was outdoors in nature, and when I wanted to take some photographs in live view mode using Av, Tv and TAV, the histogram displayed on the LCD showed saturating highlights regardless of exposure settings, in order to check if I could move the histogram by changing the dialing down the exposure, the histogram stays the same (stuck at the right side) and after I took the shot I could verify that the histogram went on the left side and that the shot was underexposed. To me it looks like a bug. I tried again at home and the histogram of the shot is the same as the histogram of the live view display. Did anyone experience the same issue. For me, that raises the question of the usability of the histogram displayed in live view.
I think how the histogram works depends on the type of lens attached. If the lens is fully manual the histogram changes as the lcd changes and there is no ev bar showing. Otherwise the histogram tracks the exposure and the ev bar.
07-05-2018, 03:55 AM   #25
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Ya, I have noted this earlier many times that fully manual lenses do not work with current liveview implementation properly. Especially in manual mode where set parameters are not reflected in the image and histogram.
07-05-2018, 11:58 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJKoski Quote
Ya, I have noted this earlier many times that fully manual lenses do not work with current liveview implementation properly. Especially in manual mode where set parameters are not reflected in the image and histogram.
Yes, I try to remember when using manual lenses to turn off the histogram. Then green button, adjust settings, DOF preview (digital) to see the histogram.
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