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02-23-2019, 08:18 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Merv-O Quote
Promaster 27mm UV filter
not a bad idea.....did the 27 to 52 step ring for rubber hood & cap already in house.....when something isn't on it my fingers tend to gravitate right to the glass....ugh

02-24-2019, 01:41 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
Just use FF mode and crop the picture on your computer. Same result.
After few days I will be have K1 II body so I do that as you advice.
QuoteOriginally posted by MarkJerling Quote
It's not just crop mode - The K-1II can crop like crazy!
What len are you use for this shots? I can say I am impressed. I expected lower resolution and that crop mode is more like marketing toy. After last update for crop Pentax 11-18/2.8 I wonder that it is not make sense buy APS-C wide angle len to use with K1 (as I have K3 II too) as about 300 gram lower and with filter mount in comparition to Pentax 15-30 WR.
02-24-2019, 02:34 PM - 1 Like   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by pxt Quote

What lens are you use for this shots? I can say I am impressed. I expected lower resolution and that crop mode is more like marketing toy. After last update for crop Pentax 11-18/2.8 I wonder that it is not make sense buy APS-C wide angle lens to use with K1 (as I have K3 II too) as about 300 gram lower and with filter mount in comparison to Pentax 15-30 WR.
This was with a good old K-mount manual 50mm F1.7 lens. See my "K-1 discovery thread here: Mark's K-1 II discovery thread - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com

I have also used this APS-C lens quite successfully on the K-1. See my thread here: Rokinon 8mm f3.5 Fisheye - Page 4 - PentaxForums.com

Here's the Rokinon 8mm F3.5 shot that I write about in that thread:



As you can see, the Rokinon lens is a bit soft around the edges, but other than that it works really well on the K-1.

Last edited by MarkJerling; 02-24-2019 at 03:41 PM.
02-24-2019, 03:35 PM - 1 Like   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by pxt Quote
I can say I am impressed. I expected lower resolution and that crop mode is more like marketing toy. After last update for crop Pentax 11-18/2.8 I wonder that it is not make sense buy APS-C wide angle len to use with K1 (as I have K3 II too) as about 300 gram lower and with filter mount in comparition to Pentax 15-30 WR.
The crop mode on the K1 and K1 II is useful. If you have a aps-c lenses you can use them in crop mode and take advantage of lens-correction software (the new 11-18 has just been updated for the K-1 series). If you don't need FF it can increase your fire rate as the buffer empties faster.

However if you are going to the expense of buying a K1/K1 II to take advantage of the 36MP sensor, it makes no sense to me to invest in aps-c lenses that wont cover the FF image circle. if you want to print large you will find the 36MP K1 FF sensor very capable. In crop mode you are using a 15MP section of that sensor and will be more restrictive.

02-25-2019, 07:26 AM   #20
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At this field only disadventage of wide angle lenses are that if you want AF are limited to 15-30 and as it is without filter mount it is useless for photography. Buying adapter for about 20-25% price of lens is not way which I want to go. You have right that usins sensor is only possible with full frame lens, but now I am looking for the most rational use of K1 II crop mode if you do not buy APS-C lens earlier.
02-25-2019, 08:17 AM   #21
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You can almost always get more out of an image if you shoot in FF mode and crop, I have many 30 MP crops that are still 6MP more than a 24 MP K-3. Rupert had his squirrel shooting setup done for APS-c. I believe he used a Sigma 50-500. He shot his K-1 images in crop. Because he had the FL he needed to fill the frame at 500mm on APS-c there was no benefit for him to use the full frame mode. He would have just cropped it in any case. Smaller files for all the required info. To get the same FoV with a K-1 he would have needed a 750mm lens.

That probably seemed a bit excessive for squirrel images.

QuoteOriginally posted by pxt Quote
At this field only disadventage of wide angle lenses are that if you want AF are limited to 15-30 and as it is without filter mount it is useless for photography. Buying adapter for about 20-25% price of lens is not way which I want to go. You have right that usins sensor is only possible with full frame lens, but now I am looking for the most rational use of K1 II crop mode if you do not buy APS-C lens earlier.
I'm laughing. go to the one of the threads with 15-30 images. It's hardly useless. Your choices are hardly limited to the 15-30. There are many legacy options. As I pointed out with the FA 50 macro and DFA 50 1.4, if you want edge to edge sharpness, the macro is sharper at the edges anywhere in it's focal range than the DFA 50 1.4 is at it's best. The smooth out of focus areas of the DFA are what it was designed for. That has absolutely no use for landscape. Lenses like the 20-35 are still quite functional on FF. This attidue that the advent of new lenses means you should throw out all your legacy glass is complete nonsense and unsupported by any scientific comparison. It's the attitude of a few folks who were being paid to promote Pentax.

My own take on filters in general is that they aren't worth the bother. Tess went through a filter phase, so, I've done many image comparisons, hers against mine. She got some nice images, but with the DR increases, K-5 and on, filters became largely irrelevant, as did shooting HDRs.

Last edited by normhead; 02-25-2019 at 08:24 AM.
02-25-2019, 09:41 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by pxt Quote
At this field only disadventage of wide angle lenses are that if you want AF are limited to 15-30 and as it is without filter mount it is useless for photography.
I could not disagree more. AF on an ultra wide lens is pretty irrelevant anyway. Use hyperfocal focussing method.

K-1 + DFA 15-30

02-25-2019, 11:54 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by pxt Quote
At this field only disadventage of wide angle lenses are that if you want AF are limited to 15-30
Current Pentax FF offerings includes three primes and three zooms offering focal lengths within the wide-angle range. Opening up the field to current third-party offerings (AF + MF) increases the number to 28 that may be purchased new, at least through B&H here in the U.S.

QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
I could not disagree more.
Absolutely, particularly considering AF at focal lengths less than 24mm on 24x36mm FF format. It works, but placing point of focus is a pain given the "size" of the AF point vs. the "size" of features to focus on.


Steve

02-25-2019, 01:04 PM   #24
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I'll go ahead and chip in here - I've found a bunch of reasons to use the crop mode on the K-1.

To summarize:
1) To reduce file size for a whole bunch of frames. I shoot a ton of timelapse. If I shoot an 800-frame sunset, that's ~16GB of raw files on crop. Without crop, it would be 35ish GB of raw data. The crop resolution is still far larger than you need for 4k video, so unless you're doing some serious crop-panning or crop-zooming, the added resolution doesn't get you anything for the final video product. It just fills your hard drive up faster.

2) You want as many frames as you can possibly get in a short period of time. There's a difference in burst speed between crop on and crop off, something like 4.5 frames/sec to 6.5. When would you use this? Sports (maybe, using spray-n-pray). I used it when making composite frames of the International Space Station transiting across the face of the moon. If I was shooting non-crop, I'd only get 3 or 4 frames where that happens. In crop mode, I think I got 5 or 6.

3) Your buffer is a concern. So the buffer spits out data at the same rate. If the files are inherently smaller, it spits out more files in crop mode than FF mode within the same period of time. To illustrate, on crop mode the K-1 can spit out a frame every 1 second, forever, until the card fills up or the battery dies. in non-crop mode, I think it's somewhere between 1.6 and 2 seconds to clear the infinite-repeat speed. Where is this useful? I use it when timelapsing fireworks. In crop mode, if you shoot burst mode with 1" shutter speeds, it can shoot this for as long as the show goes. If you were doing it in FF mode, you'd have to shoot 2" shutter speeds on repeat. The end result is that the timelapse in crop mode has 2x the frames, so it's twice as long... but also you get the benefit of a more fluid motion for the show. The 2" interval for fireworks just looks like one frame after the other, but at 1" all the shots flow together to be a ultra high speed video. Same goes for traffic timelapses and pedestrian timelapses. 1" exposures on repeat look way better.

4) You don't have the lens reach to fill the whole frame of the image. So if you're shooting the moon by itself with a 300 or 400mm lens, and the rest of the image is just sky. Or birds or bugs. If the empty space around your subject is otherwise useless, I'd rather crop in camera. Why? Filesize and Lightroom processing speed (it'll handle the 16MP crop image quicker than the 36MP full one).

Anyway, this isn't an all-encompassing list. It's just a bunch of practical examples I've found where the crop mode has really, really made my life better - and not having the crop mode as an option really would have been a burden.
02-25-2019, 11:36 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
I could not disagree more. AF on an ultra wide lens is pretty irrelevant anyway. Use hyperfocal focussing method.
I understand your point. I am generally speaking about about inversality of lens. Of course you can take greats shots without filter mount, but when you have a lot of windows in city or want very long exposure time polariser an ND filter is a lot of time only option.

AF is only use when you like shoot people inhouse for me. I prefer have it and use MF in place only one option. For me more universality is better.
02-26-2019, 12:06 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by pxt Quote
Of course you can take greats shots without filter mount, but when you have a lot of windows in city or want very long exposure time polariser an ND filter is a lot of time only option

The reason I posted that photograph is precisely because it was shot with the 15-30 with a Graduated ND and a ND filter. The exposure time was 20 seconds.
02-26-2019, 02:20 PM   #27
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I read a lot good review about yours 15-30 len, but in standard you have not filter mount. I think you use some adapter. As I made research adapter + filter is cost about 30% price of new lens. It is why I delete it from "I need this" and it is why I wrote about filter mount. NISI kit in my country cost about 90-95% price of this lens!
02-26-2019, 05:32 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by pxt Quote
I read a lot good review about yours 15-30 len, but in standard you have not filter mount. I think you use some adapter.
Yes I use an adapter to allow my existing filter kit (Lee 150) to be used on this lens. cost is 7% of the price of the lens.
02-27-2019, 06:26 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
Yes I use an adapter to allow my existing filter kit (Lee 150) to be used on this lens. cost is 7% of the price of the lens.
Could you tell me what filters you use on 15-30? I see extremaly pricey items only.
02-27-2019, 07:30 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by pxt Quote
Could you tell me what filters you use on 15-30? I see extremaly pricey items only.
I use the Lee 150 system. Polariser/ND/ND Grads. They are expensive yes. But i already have the kit. When I bought the 15-30 the only additional expense was the adapter ring. Cost about 100

My view with anything photographic, especially if it going to go in front of the lens, is to get the best system you can afford. The 15-30 is an expensive lens. It deserves a good filter system.
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