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02-26-2019, 02:12 PM   #1
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K-1 mkII long exposure in camera processing

Playing with ND filter with a K-1 mII.
I found that an exposure of 30 secondes in bulb mode takes forever to process in camera before the picture reveals.
I figure out that a 30 seconds exposure takes about more than 15 seconds to process in camera.
A 80 seconds takes at least 1 minutes.
Is it a normal behavior?
Should I change any setup in camera?
Thank you for your help.

Read more at: K-1 MK2 Long Exposure Performance - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com

02-26-2019, 02:14 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by gerardbaron Quote
Playing with ND filter with a K-1 mII.
I found that an exposure of 30 secondes in bulb mode takes forever to process in camera before the picture reveals.
I figure out that a 30 seconds exposure takes about more than 15 seconds to process in camera.
A 80 seconds takes at least 1 minutes.
Is it a normal behavior?
Should I change any setup in camera?
Thank you for your help.

Read more at: K-1 MK2 Long Exposure Performance - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com
Turn off Dark Frame Subtraction and it will be almost instantaneous (might be called something different, I can't remember)
02-26-2019, 02:22 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by gerardbaron Quote
Is it a normal behavior?
Yes. Normal behaviour. You can disable it if you want to deal with the noise a long exposure creates yourself.
02-26-2019, 02:35 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by gerardbaron Quote
Playing with ND filter with a K-1 mII.
I found that an exposure of 30 secondes in bulb mode takes forever to process in camera before the picture reveals.
I figure out that a 30 seconds exposure takes about more than 15 seconds to process in camera.
A 80 seconds takes at least 1 minutes.
Is it a normal behavior?
Should I change any setup in camera?
Thank you for your help.

Read more at: K-1 MK2 Long Exposure Performance - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com
The setting to disable is called "slow shutter speed noise reduction". This noise reduction is effective at removing hot pixels that come from sensor hear, but the processing time is roughly equivalent to the duration of the exposure itself.

If image quality is paramount, you can do DFS processing after the fact by snapping a dark frame manually.


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02-26-2019, 03:24 PM   #5
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As otgers said. Starting at about 30 seconds the camera takes a dark frame of the same duration to remove artifacts created by the length of tge exposure (heat related sensor pixel noise). As Adam said you can manually create your own dark frame to let Lightroom or another tool manually subtract this noise. The key is similar conditions and durations.
02-26-2019, 04:21 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
As otgers said. Starting at about 30 seconds the camera takes a dark frame of the same duration to remove artifacts created by the length of tge exposure (heat related sensor pixel noise). As Adam said you can manually create your own dark frame to let Lightroom or another tool manually subtract this noise. The key is similar conditions and durations.
How you do that in Lightroom ?
02-26-2019, 04:52 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by gerardbaron Quote
How you do that in Lightroom ?
My mistake. I meant Photoshop. And I'm not an expert on the method.

02-26-2019, 05:02 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
The setting to disable is called "slow shutter speed noise reduction". This noise reduction is effective at removing hot pixels that come from sensor hear, but the processing time is roughly equivalent to the duration of the exposure itself.

If image quality is paramount, you can do DFS processing after the fact by snapping a dark frame manually.
Hello Adam
How do you snap a black frame in photoshop?
Do you create two layers one with the photo and the other one with
the black one and then use mode substrat ?
Gerard
02-26-2019, 05:06 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by gerardbaron Quote
Hello Adam
How do you snap a black frame in photoshop?
Do you create two layers one with the photo and the other one with
the black one and then use mode substrat ?
Gerard
Basically, you subtract all black from the dark frame, which leaves you with the hotspots. Then, subtract the hotspots from the image that was captured. I'm sure there are tutorials online- not sure what the exact filter would be.

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02-26-2019, 05:37 PM   #10
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Try posing the question in one of the astrophotography threads or forums if you can't find it here.
02-27-2019, 12:26 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by gerardbaron Quote
Playing with ND filter with a K-1 mII....
You're taking daylight photos with the ND, correct? I think you can just ignore dark frame subtraction for now - you won't notice a tiny bit of noise in scenes that aren't filled with black. Turn off slow shutter speed noise reduction.

Only invest time learning about dark frames if you do astrophotography and night landscapes.
02-27-2019, 01:50 AM   #12
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Is in-camera dark frame subtraction officially documented anywhere?
02-27-2019, 05:49 AM   #13
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K-1 II handles very long exposures just fine without DFS in-camera. 20C ambient temp gives 4-5min easily and 5-15mins in subzero temperature. This is more what MK1 is able to handle although it is fine as well. I think KP and MK2 might use the accelerator to filter out long exposures. KP particularly is interesting case as it beats many FF cameras when doing long exposures without DFS.
02-28-2019, 09:12 AM   #14
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Quick pseudo-related question for y'all - does Long Shutter NR affect the RAW file, or just the JPG?
02-28-2019, 03:16 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by disasterfilm Quote
Quick pseudo-related question for y'all - does Long Shutter NR affect the RAW file, or just the JPG?
As far as I understand - both. The subtraction is done before the file is saved. BUT I can't find a citation for this and while I have shot with it on in a number of situations I don't know that I would have noticed it off.
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