Originally posted by MJKoski Same (current) version of lightroom handles K-1 mk1 and mk2 differently. MK2 gives me this with underexposed and pushed ISO100 files:
No such issues with MK1. If anything, pushed MK1 RAW-files produce more white dots but not magenta tinted shadows which simply do not go away simple tint-adjustment. Either Adobe messed something up or MK2 imaging chain has serious flaw here. I took that example in July 2018 and Rawtherapee release from that timeline also ended up with the same magenta tint.
A true shame because this is also my experience with Lightroom. So far what has worked best for me (if we're sticking to only Lightroom) is to adjust the tint until the green is just below obvious, increase contrast, ensure
colour-noise-reduction smoothness is set to 100, then go to your HSL and adjust the purple and magenta saturation down. Luckily there's not many things in nature that are purple and magenta so we can usually get away with this (except for sunsets and pretty flowers
)
There's more steps you can take such as local saturation adjustments using the brush tool. You could also just use curves on the green channel to push the shadows green tint up and bring the blue down. All worth experimenting with. Once you're pushing EV that high then you're already in slightly uncharted territory. Bracketting is the way to go anyhow in these landscape shots but I guess motion blur can be an issue when PP software doesn't do the best job of correcting it.
---------- Post added 04-05-20 at 12:58 PM ----------
Originally posted by Mundj Thank you for your article. But, a question. How are you importing images into Lightroom, as DMG files or PEF format? I don't yet have a K1 but am interested in these articles?
DNG but have tried as PEF as well. Same results.
---------- Post added 04-05-20 at 01:02 PM ----------
Originally posted by biz-engineer I have more white dot on my K1 II, so I think it's not related to the camera being a Mk1 or Mk2 but rather related to the sensor itself.
You can easily correct shadow tint adjusting the red tone curve for low levels. I did that to correct for WB in shadow and it worked great.
Not everyone needs to push 5 stops of shadows, I never push more than 3 stop because I use 2, 3 and 4 stops soft ND grad filters which helps balance noise across the frame, do so it much better than exposing for the high light and pushing shadows like crazy. There is also the method of taking two or three bracketed shots and stacking them with luminosity masks it's also much better than pushing shadows 4 or 5 stops.
Couldn't agree more. To be honest I just wanted to address this because I've seen many people in youtube comments and on here getting stressed that all of a sudden their camera is no good because of review from Cameraville and DPReview. But at the same time it is an issue with Lightroom and so I thought hey why not provide a couple presets for Capture One (and Affinity Photo on demand) until Lightroom bring out a proper profile, if they ever do. But yeah totally agree. Proper exposure in the field can't be beaten. I think the ideal shot would be one where you'd ask yourself "If I was shooting JPEG, would this shot be good enough?" and answer with a resounding yes...or something like that anyways
Though I'm probably just talking s***