[richfam]

I too think that a Nikon Z6 would be a nice body for adapting old SLR lenses, but it is expensive.

Have you considered a used Sony A7 II body? KEH, for example, has them for around $750 (EX condition with 6 month warranty). At that price, could you afford it along with a K-1?

[JensE]

I don't think any of the adapters open/close the aperture - that's where the native mount has advantages, if you want to focus the 'classic' way at open aperture. You may be familiar with this from the smaller formats, but I find this to be a significant difference between working with native lenses vs. adapted ones on the K-1. The EVF+focus peaking may allow for some better working aperture handling, but it gets progressively more difficult as you close down the aperture - judging by my Pentax LV experience.

[johnha]

I've acquired enough gear through GAS and see the argument both ways. I would however suggest that you buy the camera you'll enjoy using the most (and this probably requires native lenses in the most part). Using a bunch of adapters that limit the camera just to use old glass (that may or may not cut the mustard), seems like an adventure too far for me. The Pentax M42 K adapter works because the lenses have stop down levers, K mount lenses work on the K-1 with the Green button, without this - K mount lenses don't really adapt well.

I've kept all my Tamron ADii lenses so that if I ever switch systems, I've got a selection of lenses ready to go - in reality, I'd be better selling them (and lots of other 'GAS' acquired stuff) and buy something special with the funds.

[Wasp]

The Sony A7 series should yield good results with all sorts of vintage glass. One of the problems with old lenses is that pixel peeping show up their limitations. My theory is that the Sony A7S overcomes this. With "only" 12MP, there fewer pixels to be peeped. Problem solved?

One "problem" with the Nikon (or Sony) option is modern lenses . There are a wide variety of lenses inNikon Z and Sony E mount that are said to be just wonderful. They are pricey, though. By going with a Pentax K1, the OP will not be tempted into the rabbit hole.

[normhead]

The Sony A7 series should yield good results with all sorts of vintage glass.

I wondered that too. If all you're looking for is a mount for a variety of lenses, Sony is definitely the most mature system out there.

[nickthetasmaniac]

I have considered one of the A7 series. However, I’ve played with a few of them (A7, A7s and A7III) and I just don’t particularly like the bodies. Super capable, but just not my cup of tea...

---------- Post added 04-20-20 at 11:03 PM ----------

One "problem" with the Nikon (or Sony) option is modern lenses . There are a wide variety of lenses inNikon Z and Sony E mount that are said to be just wonderful. They are pricey, though. By going with a Pentax K1, the OP will not be tempted into the rabbit hole.

I have had this thought. However Pentax does have the FA Limited rabbit hole, which I’m yet to explore

[MJKoski]

I have a Z6 here along 3 K-1 bodies. I purchased the Z6 to see how Nikon mirrorless works (or does not work). I would not recommend it at this point. Get a 3rd generation Sony A7 if you want "mature" MILC system. The showstopper for me is unacceptable IQ at base ISO100. In short you get old Canon type banding when trying to push shadows few stops. This is caused by on-sensor PDAF. Issues goes away at higher sensitivities as noise slowly crawls in and makes the striping invisible.

Adapter for Pentax lens is huge thanks to large Z mount. Attaching such large diameter lens adapter removes access to front Fn-function buttons.

Some internet reviews say that Z-series has better ergonomics than current A7-series. Not true, both are cramped tiny boxes.

[noelpolar]

I have 2 K1s and recently added a Canon S focus screen to one of them to use primarily with my manual focus lenses.... 20/3.5, 30/2.8, 50/1.2, 85/1.8 etc. I also added a 1.22x Tempa eye piece..... totally transformed the camera for me (mostly the S screen). I was never satisfied with the K1 for manual critical focus prior to doing this.... now I am content.

With all the focus stuff turned off.... including the viewfinder grid overlays you can a get a big bright viewfinder with this sort of glass and can easily see focus for off centre subjects etc....

Maybe buy a preloved K1 and have a play.

[nickthetasmaniac]

I have a Z6 here along 3 K-1 bodies. I purchased the Z6 to see how Nikon mirrorless works (or does not work). I would not recommend it at this point. Get a 3rd generation Sony A7 if you want "mature" MILC system. The showstopper for me is unacceptable IQ at base ISO100. In short you get old Canon type banding when trying to push shadows few stops. This is caused by on-sensor PDAF. Issues goes away at higher sensitivities as noise slowly crawls in and makes the striping invisible.

I recall endless reports of the same issue (banding caused by the on-sensor PDAF) when the Sony A7III was released?

[totsmuyco]

Hi all, another lovely this/that question for the brains trust

Currently, I'm mostly a film shooter. Pentax is my main 35mm system (MX, LX, SV, SP-F) and I've built up a collection of lenses that includes some of the nicest Takumar, SMC-K and SMC-M glass. However, with time and GAS I've also accumulated some decent lenses across a bunch of other systems (Rokkor, OM Zuiko, Nikkor, Voigtlander VM and Leitz)...

I'm pondering getting a full frame body to give these lenses a digital home* (actually I've been pondering this for years...), and I've come to these two options:

1) Pentax K-1 (probably MkII)

2) FF mirrorless (probably Nikon Z6)

The K1 is my preference for the Pentax glass. I like Pentax build and ergonomics, and being able to use these lenses with an optical finder is a big selling point. For a bunch of reasons I also have an emotional attachment to the brand. The downside is that I would only be able to use it with my Pentax glass...

The Z6 (or equivalent) gives the opportunity to adapt all of my lenses, and also provides all the fancy manual focussing aids that comes with a good EVF. However, it is an EVF, which is fine, but doesn't excite me, and I haven't found a FF mirrorless body that feels as good in the hand as a K1.

Which direction would you go?

*For what it's worth, I currently shoot digital with an Olympus Pen-F and Zuiko 60mm Macro. However, I've developed this kit almost exclusively to shoot native orchids, and it doesn't impact the decision above. I'll be keeping the kit but I'm not interested in investing further in Micro Four Thirds, or using it to adapt legacy lenses.

Pentax P0rn for attention

I don't know if there are more who has this opinion or it's just me but, I love the look of the cameras in the 80s. That's why I like the KP.

[travelswsage]

don't think any of the adapters open/close the aperture - that's where the native mount has advantages, if you want to focus the 'classic' way at open aperture. You may be familiar with this from the smaller formats, but I find this to be a significant difference between working with native lenses vs. adapted ones on the K-1. The EVF+focus peaking may allow for some better working aperture handling, but it gets progressively more difficult as you close down the aperture - judging by my Pentax LV experience.

Just fyi -- fotodiox does make an adapter that allows you to control the aperture -- it's not the greatest but it works. I use my Pentax dfa lenses on a Sony body with it. Having both the A7rii and the K-1 it is easier to use the Sony to focus manual lenses. In virtually every other aspect I prefer the K-1.

[MJKoski]

I just sold my Nikon Z6. No manufacturer should use PDAF-integrated sensor if they cannot handle the side-effects. It seems Nikon cannot provide an acceptable fix or just does not care.

[pinholecam]

Thanks or too he responses everyone, some interesting thoughts.

A couple of comments to clarify my original questions. First of all, I’m very familiar with mirrorless, EVF’s and adapting lenses (I’ve been a mirrorless shooter since the GH2...). I just haven’t bought in to full frame mirrorless.

Second, my lens kit is heavily biased towards Pentax. Amongst others I have the S-M-C Tak 20/f4.5, Super Tak 50/f1.4 8-element, and the SMC-K quartet of 28/f2, 50/f1.2, 85/f1.8 and 135/f2.5. While I have nice lenses from other systems, the exotic stuff is all Pentax. I guess my point is that while I’m curious about using all of it on digital, the primary reason I’m jumping in the pond is to use the Pentax stuff.[COLOR="Silver"]

I got a Sony A7 and later modified it with a Kolari thin filter mod when the camera was released in 2013.
All said, despite it not being functionally as good as a K1, its an extremely good 'digital back' for all my manual lenses.
The adapters opens up the options of lenses and the EVF+focus peaking make focus and accuracy much better than focus confirm and focusing screens on a DSLR.


For me, my K1 is now primarily used for AF lenses with a mix of MF lenses for landscape use, which don't need fast AF (and I can use LV)
The A7 is for all my manual lenses.

---------- Post added 05-12-2020 at 02:21 PM ----------

I have considered one of the A7 series. However, I’ve played with a few of them (A7, A7s and A7III) and I just don’t particularly like the bodies. Super capable, but just not my cup of tea...

---------- Post added 04-20-20 at 11:03 PM ----------



I have had this thought. However Pentax does have the FA Limited rabbit hole, which I’m yet to explore

The thing with the A7 series is that Sony has had time and incentive to improve on it to the point that many issues were resolved from v1 to viii
Personally (as with a friend who has shot most of the A7s - A7iii models), the A7ii is a good sweet spot where most issues were ironed out and the camera not too expensive (with IBIS too)


Other pluses would be the most mature 3rd party accessories and adapters.


I always found the A7 not as smooth in the photograph taking flow than a Pentax.
This are a range of nagging stuff like how bracketing options work, type of self-timer options, WB and colors.
That said, its just a digital back to me for manual lenses so I can live with all these minor issues.

[nickthetasmaniac]

Well, to revive an old thread, I got a Z6

Really enjoying it so far. Ergonomically it ticks the right boxes, the EVF is the best I've used, and image quality has been faultless thus far (no sign of the shadow issues mentioned earlier in the thread). Customising up the interface is taking some time, given I'm completely new to Nikon digitals and used to Olympus' insane level of personalisation.

It's been great fun playing with my film glass on a digital 35mm sensor. Standout so far has been the Super-Macro-Takumar 50/f4. I've Never particularly liked it on film (due to how much it dims the finder) but on the Z6 it just sings.


Voigtlander 28/f2 Ultron


Super-Macro-Takumar 50/f4


Super-Macro-Takumar 50/f4


Leitz 90/f2.8 Tele Elmarit


Nikkor 28/f2.8 Ais

[cometguy]

I'm fairly new to this forum, as I'm getting back into my Pentax cameras after a while of not doing much photography outside of my iPhone. I carried into the digital era with my Pentax PZ-1 and LX and my Nikon F4 film cameras, only getting one digital camera so far (K10D, new in 2007). The 10-megapixel CCD detector (in the K10D) has gotten a lot of good shots, but I never felt it had better resolution than my film cameras. But film has just gotten too difficult to use now (I don't develop my own film anymore), and I'm ready to move up to the K-1 II before the end of this year. Here's my question: I have been searching reviews and the online K-1 II manual but have been unable to find anything regarding the very useful "hyper-manual" green button in my PZ-1 and K10D cameras. The K-1 II manual says that the green button there on the upper center back side is used for "reset" -- which I suppose could be used to describe the use on my PZ-1 and K10D. Can any of you help me with this? I have a lot of older lenses that I shoot with, so I shoot in manual mode most of the time, and pushing the green hyper-manual button on my cameras sets the exposure fairly close so I can then tweak aperture or exposure time with my dials. Is this the same on the K-1 II, and if not, how can I use "hyper-manual" on the K-1 II? Why did Pentax stop calling it "hyper-manual"? This feature is what I would say is the single most useful camera function for me on my current cameras.