[MJKoski]

As the title says, this is about Astronomik ProPlanet 642 BP Clip-Filter Pentax K-1

Astronomik ProPlanet 642 BP Clip-Filter Pentax K-1 - Clip-Filter Pentax K1 - Clip-Filter

I ordered it, received it and wondered how exactly it would be safe to use with the mirror mechanism. I asked the seller about this but got no reply. Well, I took the filter (which was dirty right out of the box BTW before some cleaning) and rammed it in as instructed. I can safely shut down the camera and nothing seemed to make weird noises.

Some advice for installation (horrible experience):

0) Activate liveview
1) The aperture lever inside the body will collide with the filter frame if you just push it in
2) Carefully insert the other edge of the filter frame past the protruding aperture lever stick
3) Push in the opposite edge and secure the frame in place (it will not sink too deep)

More content to come when I have some time to try it out.

[MJKoski]

Seller replied to my query:

I can confirm that none of our clip filters that block the mirror mechanism far all cameras we offer has ever been reported to damage the mirror mechanism or something else.

[ProfessorBuzz]

Was this a new filter or used?

[MJKoski]

New in a sealed box. I guess the soft material on which the filter is placed was just dusty when the filter was put in there.

[Bob 256]

It sound's like a typical reply from a seller who doesn't really care about damage so long as the sale goes through. It's easy to say, "no reported damage" but that's no guarantee or acceptance of risk. I would be EXTREMELY careful using this device, and personally wouldn't try it since mirror or mirror motor damage is disastrous and will require repair shop work to fix.

Note that if you go to the specification info for the filter, it is available in many sizes and one of those might fit your main lens which would be a much better way to use the filter rather than trying to fit one in your mirror box.

[MJKoski]

I agree that there is a big risk here. I cannot recommend this to anyone (Well, someone recommended it to me here) due to 1) camera damage risk 2) inconvenient installation (without vinyl gloves, to prevent smudging). But anyway, I did install it and will try to photograph something with it. At first tests it seems to have super high contrast and far less flare issues compared to filter attached to the front of the lens. It is a bandpass filter and will prevent hotspots caused by longer wavelength IR spectrum.

[Bob 256]

I agree that there is a big risk here. I cannot recommend this to anyone (Well, someone recommended it to me here) due to 1) camera damage risk 2) inconvenient installation (without vinyl gloves, to prevent smudging). But anyway, I did install it and will try to photograph something with it. At first tests it seems to have super high contrast and far less flare issues compared to filter attached to the front of the lens. It is a bandpass filter and will prevent hotspots caused by longer wavelength IR spectrum.

One over the lens should work just as well and not pose the risks that this particular version has. See the info sheet for the filter and it lists other sizes available, but good luck with the version you're using. If you can get it to work without issues, no reason not to go with it.

[pcrichmond]

Sorry to hear about the disappointment with the filter. I've found Astronomik to be a great company to work with and very communicative.

I use the Astronomik cls-ccd clip filter quite a bit for astrophotography and find it great for eliminating UV, IR, Hg and Na bandwidths on my full spectrum.
The clip filter permits using UWA lenses without the color shift that conventional screw on filters can cause from band shifts at the edges.
Shooting style is different than my normal work flow, as due to the precision of setting up a tracking device, the camera is on in bulb mode for very long periods of time (sometimes up to an hour or more) and have never had a problem with it.
Granted, I've always removed the filter when done shooting before turning the camera off just as I would remove my screw on IR filters when done.

I was curious how their IR bandpass filters might work for planetary imaging but haven't seen the need to try. Using a telephoto for such I can use my screw on filters without problem of edge color shifts or need to buy something else to carry around.

Was hoping they would make an aps-c Luminance version (covers the visible, H alpha and SII bands, eliminating UVIR) for my modified K01 and have had great communication with them on the possibility. Just received an email (after several back and forth communications covering sensor box dimensions, etc.) that they would decline for the moment. They couldn't get a K01 in hand for precision fit and didn't want to proceed without doing so. Missing the mirror and mirror stops on the bottom of the sensor box for the clip to seat against, they felt the cost of making a filter they weren't sure would fit and having a disappointed customer would be cost prohibitive.

There is also another company (SCT) making astronomical clip filters for Pentax but think it would be the same issue of having to remove the filter before turning the camera off. I might give them a try for the K01 but am looking at staying with the Astronomk brand and just using a regular 2' round filter in my scope instead.

Again, sorry for the disappointment and the differences in communication. I've found them to be a great source for astrophotography filters.

[MJKoski]

No need to be sorry

I just do not have the courage to recommend it to anyone as I do not know the long term issues it might (or not) cause. But I am about to find out. It was such hassle to install it with my large fingers that it will remain there until I use IR-Chrome next time.

I might also buy some mirrorless AR-coated camera directly from Kolari as I have found the K-1 to be kind of a nuisance to get fully working for high IQ IR work. So far I have only one superb lens for IR work (Zeiss 50MP) and a huge bunch of mediocre (hotspots) glass. And front mounted filters are large part of the problem.

[MJKoski]

Here is a test photo using Samyang 35mm/1.4 lens:



Channel swapped in Photoshop and some little tinkering. It has a large lens flare (not hotspot) as sun was just on the edge of the frame at full intensity.

[pcrichmond]

@MJKoski, curious what f-stop did you use?
I know some lenses produce hotspots differently at various aperture, not sure about sun flare.
Also, the whole point of the clip in filter is to eliminate color shifts on the side of UWA lenses.
35mm isn't really wide, so would be curious to see if this is a result of the lens, the aperture or if it is how this filter actually handles side light.

[Not a Number]

Was hoping they would make an aps-c Luminance version (covers the visible, H alpha and SII bands, eliminating UVIR) for my modified K01 and have had great communication with them on the possibility. Just received an email (after several back and forth communications covering sensor box dimensions, etc.) that they would decline for the moment. They couldn't get a K01 in hand for precision fit and didn't want to proceed without doing so. Missing the mirror and mirror stops on the bottom of the sensor box for the clip to seat against, they felt the cost of making a filter they weren't sure would fit and having a disappointed customer would be cost prohibitive.

Perhaps offer to loan your K-01 in exchange for a review copy (to keep) of the filter? A flange on the filter might work. They could possibly 3D scan the sensor box and model from that.

[JensE]

So far, I tried mine with the 12mm/2.8 Samyang Fish-Eye at night, where I didn't notice any hot-spot effect. It's of course harder to tell. I did notice that stars in the corners get a little stretched - somewhat expected.

I too found the handling difficult and the surface has somewhat of a rim, not as smooth as I would expect for insertion into a blackened camera interior, which isn't supposed to be touched by anything at all. For the Samyang, it's about the only option though. For my rectilinear ultra-wides, I'm now considering a 150mm square filter instead.

[MJKoski]

Now that's nice to know. I too have the very same Samyang fisheye. IR could be fun with a fisheye.

@pcrichmond
I used f/8 aperture. The Samyang has hotspot issue @ f/11 but it does not look like that at all. I took other samples pointing to opposite direction from sun and no more reddish flare.

[barondla]

Here is a test photo using Samyang 35mm/1.4 lens:



Channel swapped in Photoshop and some little tinkering. It has a large lens flare (not hotspot) as sun was just on the edge of the frame at full intensity.

Love the look of this image.

Thanks for sharing,
barondla