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10-27-2020, 09:48 AM   #1
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Sun

Good morning,

I'm trying to do a time laps of Venus and Sun arising from the sea. K-1 suggests me to change setting to get the right exposure when sky light start changing. With the Sun very close it fails and if I follow my shots are white burn. I made some underxposure shots to the Sun but landscape appear darker then. Looks like I have to do double shoot for just one frame to be made in pothoshop later isn't it? Curiously, at that point the sunlight is not very strong, I could watch the Sun without sunglasses, an impressive experience. I bear contact lenses which protect my eyes from UV anyway...
My lens was the FA 15-30 mm, if for the night job is the best I have, it brings some disadvantage for the day: F22 max and no filters. I also have a set of 49 mm filters: UV, CPL (good for water) and ND1000 (never used) for FA 100 mm and FA 50 mm, both Macro. Should I try with 50 mm Macro with filters as a compromise?


PS Can that Sun damage my FA 15-30 mm lens or any other without UV filter?

10-27-2020, 10:22 AM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
K-1 suggests me to change setting to get the right exposure when sky light start changing. With the Sun very close it fails and if I follow my shots are white burn
For this kind of shot forget the camera's meter. It won't give you the correct exposure. You will have to practice with manual exposure.

QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
I made some underxposure shots to the Sun but landscape appear darker then. Looks like I have to do double shoot for just one frame to be made in pothoshop later isn't it?
Take a number of images and do a HDR merge in Photoshop. But I would suggest you don't want the landscape to appear too bright.

QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
My lens was the FA 15-30 mm, if for the night job is the best I have, it brings some disadvantage for the day: F22 max and no filters.
Lee Filters (and I am sure others) make a filter kit for this lens. It is modelled on the Tamron 15-30, on which the Pentax was based.

QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
PS Can that Sun damage my FA 15-30 mm lens or any other without UV filter?
I doubt the sun (bright sun) can do any damage to your lens, but if you are not careful it can damage in your camera's sensor, UV or no UV filter. Same goes for your eyes.
10-27-2020, 10:39 AM   #3
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Nice concept and it's a challenging one to get right because the sun is so much brighter than the landscape.

Do be careful. Although the sun's energy is heavily filtered by the atmosphere at sunrise, the intensity rises rapidly as the sun rises higher.

Yes, the sun can damage both your camera and your eyes even with a UV filter (think about burning ants with a magnifying glass). When focused by a lens, the image of the sun has very dangerous amounts of both visible light and infrared light. (Sunlight is only 10% UV and 40% visible-- fully 50% is IR that can burn). Although wide angle lenses are less likely to create super-hot spots, I have seen internet evidence that an 18mm lens could damage a sensor during time lapse photography during full daylight. Longer focal length lenses can burn holes in the shutter and the mirror box.

Last edited by photoptimist; 10-27-2020 at 02:34 PM.
10-27-2020, 01:06 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote



Lee Filters (and I am sure others) make a filter kit for this lens. It is modelled on the Tamron 15-30, on which the Pentax was based.


I found a Nisi holder but very expensive... ok maybe for the future I've already spent some money.

---------- Post added 10-27-20 at 01:08 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by photoptimist Quote
Nice concept and it's a challenging one to get right because the sun is so much brighter than the landscape.

Do be careful. Although the sun's energy is heavily filtered by the atmosphere at sunrise, the intensity rises rapidly as the sun rises higher.

Yes, the sun can damage both your camera and your eyes even with a UV filter (think about burning ants with a magnifying glass). When focused by a lens, the image of the sun has very dangerous amounts of both visible light and infrared light. (Sunlight is only 10% UV and 40% -- fully 50% is IR that can burn). Although wide angle lenses are less likely to create super-hot spots, I have seen internet evidence that an 18mm lens could damage a sensor during time lapse photography during full daylight. Longer focal length lenses can burn holes in the shutter and the mirror box.
Thank you sir I'll do.

10-28-2020, 02:33 AM   #5
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This morning recording a rising Sun with the FA 50 mm f32 max I got a kind of red spot even I coudn't see it on display. I used also a Hoya UV filter.
10-28-2020, 04:11 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
This morning recording a rising Sun with the FA 50 mm f32 max I got a kind of red spot even I coudn't see it on display. I used also a Hoya UV filter.
You will do best to upload the picture so we can make a serious suggestion.

But a couple of points....

f32 is not recommended for photography.

When shooting into the sun you are best to avoid filters completely (unless they are ND or GND ) More glass equals more flare
10-29-2020, 03:23 AM   #7
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One I made with FA 15-30 mm, the other with flare I made with FA 50 mm Macro f32 plus CPL and ND1000 and that same red spot appeared also recording video using that same 50 mm plus UV filter.

Why f32 is not recommended?

Is CPL good as GND filter?


PS I could see if there was flare on diplay, last time just didn't notice.
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10-29-2020, 05:53 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
One I made with FA 15-30 mm, the other with flare I made with FA 50 mm Macro f32 plus CPL and ND1000 and that same red spot appeared also recording video using that same 50 mm plus UV filter.
You have lens flare in both pictures, more noticeable in the second picture. One of the hazards of shooting directly into the sun. Again the more filters you use the more the chance of flare.

QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
Why f32 is not recommended?
At slower f-stops (f16 f22 f32) you are going to introduce diffraction into the image. This will make it softer....not as sharp. For landscape photographers wanting a very wide DOF, it is a trade-off they must consider. I am not saying you should not use f32 , but you should be aware of the limitations. For your kind of images here, diffraction will not affect much.

QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
Is CPL good as GND filter?
A CPL will darken the image overall, but a GND filter would suit this type of scene better.

10-29-2020, 09:02 AM - 1 Like   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
You have lens flare in both pictures, more noticeable in the second picture. One of the hazards of shooting directly into the sun. Again the more filters you use the more the chance of flare.

Do you mean like that?


Yesterday, after recording, I made some shot and only one was without flare. Even is dark it can be used somehow. I was using 50 mm with UV filter.


Even without a direct Sun, filters should be usefull for any landscape.
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10-29-2020, 10:02 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
Even without a direct Sun, filters should be usefull for any landscape.
There is no need for a UV filter in landscapes on digital. With the sun in your frame it will only make flare worse
10-29-2020, 11:03 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
There is no need for a UV filter in landscapes on digital. With the sun in your frame it will only make flare worse
Yes I do agree and I'd like a GND.
10-29-2020, 11:57 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
Yes I do agree and I'd like a GND.
You can easily remove the flare in PP if it is a problem.
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