[UncleVanya]

Epoxy might work. I would use 5 minute or 15 minute. Invert the camera swab around the hole and pull into place. But epoxy doesn’t bond well with plastic so treat it delicately and it should seal out moisture and not fall into the body.

[SharkyCA]

Has anyone here looked at the reviews for AC adapters on this forum ? I bought one for my K-70 on e-bay a couple of years ago since the claim was the Pentax one was discontinued! See the link!Pentax K-AC168 (AC adapter for the K-70) reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database

[BugsDogsAndSunsets]

Good thought on the superglue, perhaps something else would be preferable. It looks to me like the soldered pins just came loose, but taking the whole camera apart to fix it seems a bit overkill (and creates a risk of damage). Replacing the whole main-board would be a waste.

[UncleVanya]

Good thought on the superglue, perhaps something else would be preferable. It looks to me like the soldered pins just came loose, but taking the whole camera apart to fix it seems a bit overkill (and creates a risk of damage). Replacing the whole main-board would be a waste.

I suggested epoxy since it is used to pot circuit boards. It is unlikely to damage anything and it isn’t conductive typically. The bond is very strong and often slightly flexible avoiding the fragile bond problems of superglue as well as the outgassing.

[JimJohnson]

8 years ago I built my own AC adapter for a K-r. Build AC adapter for the Pentax K-r or K-30 - PentaxForums.com

The above thread contains a pdf of the process. Making an AC adapter for any camera using the D-Li90 would follow a very similar process. Buy a cheap 3rd party D-Li90 compatible battery, Use a big resistor and drain the battery as completely as possible, carefully pry open the battery and dispose (properly) of the lithium cells. The D-Li90 shell is a replacement for the AA battery adapter used for the K-r project.

[reduno]

Surface mount sockets often have little metal pins/tabs that extend through the PCB and are soldered into place. Sometimes it is just a matter of re-soldering the pins. Other times the socket has broken apart and needs to be replaced completely. Depending on which side of the board the component is on may require removal of the mainboard to access the solder points.

Having a K-1 with the rear cover open at the moment, I can confirm the connector is mounted on the backside of the board, so replacement would involve removal of the main board, along with all the de-soldering of wires that entails. The DC input connector has a plastic body, with only two molded pins that fit into holes in the board to locate the connector. The attached photo, shows the two holes in the board that accept the black plastic pins on the connector body.

There are no metal pins that pass through the board to secure the connector body. At this time, I am assuming the connector pins are only soldered to surface mount pads on the far side of the board (certainly not as strong). In comparison, the HDMI connector (partially visible to right) appears to have metal tabs that pass through the board and are soldered on this side of the board.

[Not a Number]

Thanks for looking into this.

It looks like perhaps the plastic posts are melted down to form a bead the holds the socket in place. A common technique in manufacturing. The problem is if the bead is uneven or too thin in some areas it can easily break off. This is a common problem in the Pentax-A SMC 50mm f/1.8 on the leaf springs in the aperture ring.

The connectors would have to be resoldered but a bead of epoxy or JB plastic weld on the posts may do to hold it back to the board.

Definitely not a simple DIY repair since the board needs to be removed to access the solder points.