[BugsDogsAndSunsets]

Hi all,


I've been using my K1ii for astrophotography lately, which has made using the 8.3v DC jack necessary. Last night I went out to check on my rig to find the camera dead, because the DC adapter wasn't connected - looking at it now, the jack has completely dislodged inside the camera body (pic attached).


I don't think it's been subject to any particularly traumatic handling, though the AC adapter cable end could exert some leverage due to its length if it got bumped. Anyway, I wondered if anyone has experience disassembling these for DIY repairs to comment on the feasibility. I've successfully worked on other cameras and small electronics (including solenoid replacement for a K-S2), but the K1ii is my big expensive baby and I don't want to get in over my head and break the thing.


Options as I see it:

1. Find a good repair shop to fix it ($$$ and time)

2. DIY a fix, if accessing this part is straightforward during disassembly

3. Forget it, and just build a DIY 12V DC adapter for the battery slot. (how are these not available to purchase btw?)

Thoughts?

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[moggi1964]

I would be inclined to go with Number 3 if you have the skills to do it. It's a better long term fix IMHO.

Just to add, I always looped my cable connections to my astro gear to try to take some strain off the connectors, even zip tying the loops in place when the cables were heavy or could cause excessive strain. Though it is important to take account of the full range of the EQ mount when you do that even if you only plan a short session. You might fall asleep and the mount track further than you planned and when you woke up the cables had been torn from the devices they were plugged in to resulting in lots of tears and expense. You know; theoretically

[BugsDogsAndSunsets]

I would be inclined to go with Number 3 if you have the skills to do it. It's a better long term fix IMHO.

Just to add, I always looped my cable connections to my astro gear to try to take some strain off the connectors, even zip tying the loops in place when the cables were heavy or could cause excessive strain. Though it is important to take account of the full range of the EQ mount when you do that even if you only plan a short session. You might fall asleep and the mount track further than you planned and when you woke up the cables had been torn from the devices they were plugged in to resulting in lots of tears and expense. You know; theoretically

Yeah, I've been working to try to figure out cable management. I actually added an adhesive quick cable organizer to the bottom of the camera which has exactly the effect you mention, but getting it 12V compatible would eliminate the extra cable to the ground entirely, so probably a better solution. I think the jack was already failing when I added this, however, so the shock could have come earlier.

[BarryE]

Yeah, I've been working to try to figure out cable management. I actually added an adhesive quick cable organizer to the bottom of the camera which has exactly the effect you mention, but getting it 12V compatible would eliminate the extra cable to the ground entirely, so probably a better solution. I think the jack was already failing when I added this, however, so the shock could have come earlier.

For a difference purpose, but similar issue, I use ThinkTank Whips (Red Whips? - Elastic bungie cable ties for attaching gear to anything ? Think Tank Photo). I tighten a couple onto the camera's strap and tightly around a short USB cable stub into the camera. So when I'm tethered to the USB port, and I tread on the cable (often), the strain is on the joint the other side of the whips and the camera's USB connector is unstressed. The non-camera end of the USB connector gets pulled out so no damage to camera's internals. I also use braided USB cables as they are stronger and more flexible. Maybe there's something here to be considered for your set up ...?

[UncleVanya]

Pentax K-AC168E AC Mains Adapter Kit - Best Price at Bristol Cameras

The cord can swap to a us cord if needed.

[BugsDogsAndSunsets]

Pentax K-AC168E AC Mains Adapter Kit - Best Price at Bristol Cameras

The cord can swap to a us cord if needed.

Interesting, didn't know that was an option. Ideally I wouldn't want to use AC in the first place, since it adds a cord that needs to be routed down from the telescope - I just ordered the parts to set up a step-down supply from 12V.

[kypfer]

Pentax K-AC168E AC Mains Adapter Kit - Best Price at Bristol Cameras

The cord can swap to a us cord if needed.

The "dummy battery" that comes with this kit is the smaller size, as for the K-70, which doesn't have a dedicated DC socket … not sure how much adaption would be necessary to get it to fit in the larger battery slot. Also bear in mind the K-70 is designed to use this, with a little cut-out for the cable by the battery door. On another camera you may have to work with the battery door open, with all the risk that might entail.

[BugsDogsAndSunsets]

The "dummy battery" that comes with this kit is the smaller size, as for the K-70, which doesn't have a dedicated DC socket … not sure how much adaption would be necessary to get it to fit in the larger battery slot. Also bear in mind the K-70 is designed to use this, with a little cut-out for the cable by the battery door. On another camera you may have to work with the battery door open, with all the risk that might entail.

Gotcha, misread the listing. I'm comfortable working with the door open in this context - any time its being used in this configuration I'll be keeping a VERY close eye on the weather, given the sheer amount of gear that is sitting out waiting to get ruined.


For fun, here's a 100% crop of NGC-2903, which I was imaging before the camera died.

[UncleVanya]

The "dummy battery" that comes with this kit is the smaller size, as for the K-70, which doesn't have a dedicated DC socket … not sure how much adaption would be necessary to get it to fit in the larger battery slot. Also bear in mind the K-70 is designed to use this, with a little cut-out for the cable by the battery door. On another camera you may have to work with the battery door open, with all the risk that might entail.

Note that it claims to work with the K-1 and other cameras that use the large battery. I’ve seen old threads showing this type used with the k-5.

[kypfer]

Note that it claims to work with the K-1 and other cameras that use the large battery. I’ve seen old threads showing this type used with the k-5.

The mains adaptor will work by plugging into the DC socket of the cameras that have one, the "dummy battery" is simply not used in this instance. … the D-Li109 "dummy battery" is there for those cameras that don't have a DC socket, like the K-70. There's not a "large size" (D-Li90) "dummy battery" supplied, as might be needed for the K-01, which doesn't have a DC socket, I believe.
I have and use one of these adaptors (bought, coincidentally, from Bristol Cameras), on my three "K" cameras.
Unfortunately for the OP, this adaptor would not be an "instant solution", the D-Li109-size "dummy battery" supplied would still need to be modified for use in a K-1.

[Not a Number]

The AC adapter has the same Hirose plug that fits the K-1, K-3, K-5, K-7, K20D and K10D. The dummy battery adapter has a socket that fits plug.

[Haenzel]

Hi all,


I've been using my K1ii for astrophotography lately, which has made using the 8.3v DC jack necessary. Last night I went out to check on my rig to find the camera dead, because the DC adapter wasn't connected - looking at it now, the jack has completely dislodged inside the camera body (pic attached).


I don't think it's been subject to any particularly traumatic handling, though the AC adapter cable end could exert some leverage due to its length if it got bumped. Anyway, I wondered if anyone has experience disassembling these for DIY repairs to comment on the feasibility. I've successfully worked on other cameras and small electronics (including solenoid replacement for a K-S2), but the K1ii is my big expensive baby and I don't want to get in over my head and break the thing.


Options as I see it:

1. Find a good repair shop to fix it ($$$ and time)

2. DIY a fix, if accessing this part is straightforward during disassembly

3. Forget it, and just build a DIY 12V DC adapter for the battery slot. (how are these not available to purchase btw?)

Thoughts?

I would try to fix the jack or have it fixed. It may cause a short in the future if you leave it the way it is...

[BugsDogsAndSunsets]

I would try to fix the jack or have it fixed. It may cause a short in the future if you leave it the way it is...

I can pull it back into position with tweezers and then look to apply a toothpick sized glob of superglue to the edge. Low budget and wouldn't stand up to use, but it should keep it in place.

[Haenzel]

I can pull it back into position with tweezers and then look to apply a toothpick sized glob of superglue to the edge. Low budget and wouldn't stand up to use, but it should keep it in place.

That might be a good solution.


It is a shame the jacks are not accessible without taking the entire body apart.

Thanks for posting; I now know I must be very careful with the DC jack....

[Not a Number]

Advance Camera in Oregon is an authorized repair center and has lower rates than Precision. However in all likelihood they would replace the entire mainboard or whichever board the socket is attached to.

Surface mount sockets often have little metal pins/tabs that extend through the PCB and are soldered into place. Sometimes it is just a matter of re-soldering the pins. Other times the socket has broken apart and needs to be replaced completely. Depending on which side of the board the component is on may require removal of the mainboard to access the solder points.

I would avoid using super glue which can outgas for months leaving a permanent white haze on materials which is non-conductive.

Someone else had the same problem in the last year or two. I don't remember the outcome but you should search for that thread. It may not have been a K-1/ii