[mlines]

In the main settings menu I have

HDR auto
HDR Type 1
HDR Type 2
HDR Type 3
HDR off.

I cannot find an explanation of what the differences are between the auto, type 1,type 2 and type 3 settings are, does anyone know?

Martin

[Bob 256]

If you're talking about the K-1 versions, you should also have an HDR ADV mode. The AUTO is supposed to select the best mode for the occasion (from the types listed) but I use ADV the most. The best way to get a feel for the modes is to use them and see the results.

Note that the bracketed exposures for any of these are the same and are contained in the DNG file (assuming you are writing that to a card). The camera processes the HDR modes listed and generates a JPEG result (which is what you see on the LED display).

I have taken to processing HDR shots with a third party HDR program. I open the HDR DNG file in RAWTherapy, separate the bracketed images, and then process those in Photomatix which is the HDR processing program I use. Photomatix has a lot of control over the HDR effects - well beyond what you get with in-camera HDR. I use the ADV mode to get an idea of what the HDR image will look like (it approximates what I'm after better than the other modes), but that's about it. It's pretty convenient to press the shutter release and let the camera capture three shots in a single file, but sometimes more are needed, and then I go to bracketing mode - the downside of which is that a separate file is generated for each of the shots.

Bottom line is if you shoot in HDR and keep the DNG file, you can go back with an HDR program later and get what you want. If you only keep JPEGS, then the camera will do it for you and you're limited to those modes offered by the camera.

[Adam]

In the main settings menu I have

HDR auto
HDR Type 1
HDR Type 2
HDR Type 3
HDR off.

I cannot find an explanation of what the differences are between the auto, type 1,type 2 and type 3 settings are, does anyone know?

Martin

Here's an example of A-HDR, which gives you a very high-contrast look:
Pentax K-S2 Review - General Image Quality | PentaxForums.com Reviews


The other settings (auto, 1, 2, and 3) are just standard HDR modes of varying strength. Auto will pick a strength based on the detected dynamic range.

[stevebrot]

I remember one explanation that suggested that the numbers are relative strength with "1" being "Did we do something here?" and "3" being "cartoonish". As noted above, "Auto" will use scene evaluation to determine what is done. Of course, none of this applies to other than in-camera HDR processing or RAW processing using PDCU.


Steve

[mlines]

Thanks, I wondered if there was something more technical than "We did something", "We did something more", "We did a lot", "We went too far".

Anyway, the real answer was to take some test shots.

(Re-edited following questions below)

Taken with EV 2 stops setting in HDR capture

From Top

Original raw (Extracted - looks an awful lot like HDR type 1)



HDR Type 1



HDR Type 2



HDR Type 3



HDR ADV



HDR AUTO (Looks like it self selected type 1

[stevebrot]

Thanks, I wondered if there was something more technical than "We did something", "We did something more", "We did a lot", "We went too far".

Sadly, information on the feature is mostly anecdotal, though there is a fairly good selection of example images.

Google Image Search: "pentax hdr type"

The features page for the KP has several example images (about 1/3 down) as well as explanatory text that might be helpful too.

http://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/products/kp/feature/05.html

Anyway, the real answer was to take some test shots.

Thanks for the excellent examples. Did you catch a straight shot by any chance? If so, editing the post to include it as a sixth image (maybe at the top) would be helpful. Edit: One was found and added to the post.


Steve

[mlines]

Sadly I only thought of a straight shot after the event and the light had changed

[Bob 256]

If you have RT, you can pull out the center shot from the bracketed set (if you saved a DNG) and that can serve as a straight shot. Also, what bracket spacing did you use (Camera menu 3 >> HDR Capture). You can specify 1 or 2 stops. 2 stops usually provides better HDR effects depending on the range or tonal values in the subject. 1 stop can be a little flat sometimes.

[mlines]

Updated post above with extracted DNG Raw as pointed out

[Valantar]

To be honest, I don't think any of those shots are acceptable. If the HDR mode was worth its salt, it would expose for the highlights (sky in this case) and lift the shadows as that's where the sensor has the most detail. Looking at the HDR ADV, the sky is blown-out and darkened into awfulness, and it's too light to retain much detail in the rest. Even if the sky was mostly white at that time, you can get more detail than that.

If you have access to Lightroom or any version of Adobe Camera Raw (probably other utilities too, those are the only ones I've tried) you can do better with a few quick adjustments. An example:

The first shot (1278) was exposed for the tower (auto exposure, aperture priority IIRC). Second is the best I could do with that in Lightroom - it's okay at small sizes, but there's artefacting in the sky all over, and I've pulled the highlights down as far as they go. That's never good, creates haloing and other weird effects. Third was stopped down to expose the sky correctly. Fourth is that with some adjustments. I could even lift that further if I wanted to, but I prefer the shadowed look (it's more like what it actually looked like).


Not to sound like a snob, but in-camera (or any type of automatic) HDR is rarely worth anything at all. Shoot raw, retouch in post. You'll be happier with your results, and it's honestly not that much work.