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04-15-2021, 10:06 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by FozzFoster Quote
QuoteOriginally posted by jon.partsch Quote
Also, I think the prevailing theory is that cameras manufactured after 2015 didn't have the *really* bad solenoid, just a mediocre one. The problem is considered rare in K70s and thought only to impact the early ones - be sure to check the manufacturer date of your camera
I didn't know this - thanks for the info - checked my K-70 and it was manufactured in 2020! Glad I didn't get old stock. But I guess 'mediocre' isn't very comforting. I do have extended warranty though as well
Now, not that we get another internet-fairytale...
when was the Pentax K70 introduced?


Good source is THIS ONE

04-17-2021, 04:57 PM   #17
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Make sure you get/have an electric soldering pen with a fine point. Don't use a butane type. You need a fine point tweezers and a set of JIS screw drivers. I botched my K-S2 repair probably because I had a poor butane soldering pen. When I fixed my K-70 I had a temp adjustable electric soldering pen and the repair was easy and my K-70 has been working great ever since.

04-18-2021, 07:02 AM - 1 Like   #18
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I bought a JIS 000 screwdriver and a Xuron 450 fine needle nose plier. I will be using a soldering iron with a pen tip; I don’t have a soldering pen. Waiting for the solenoid to arrive.
04-25-2021, 02:12 PM - 2 Likes   #19
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I just finished replacing the solenoid. The most time-consuming part was unscrewing and screwing back together the body housing. Overall this was a fairly easy job, and took about an hour to finish.
Thank you, photogem, for he explicit and indispensable tutorial!!! This job wouldn't be possible without it.
I did manage to drop a screw inside the body cavity, and when i was shaking it to have it drop out, a small plastic washer fell out from somewhere inside the camera, along with the lost screw. Didn't bother looking where it came from, just wanted to mention it.
Also, the screw head holding the green solenoid was secured with some locking compound, and was a bit of a bugger to loosen.
I purchased this JIS #000 screwdriver. Moody Tools - Screwdriver, JIS Type S #000 Pollicis - 51-2063 - Phillips Head Screwdrivers - amazon.com?tag=pentaxforums-20& I didn't want to use a cheap Chinese screwdriver.
The aperture works fine now.

04-28-2021, 06:37 AM - 1 Like   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by DMITRY1 Quote
Camera is 3 years old. Only 3,200 actuations.
I purchased my KP in 11-2018, but PF's "shutter count tool"
Check Camera Shutter Count and Manufacture Date
says it was built a complete year earlier.

Did you happen to record the "built date" also?
I was thinking it might have come from old stock; we received many "Dark Image Syndrome" reports at one time, but they seem to have tailed off now.
05-01-2021, 01:41 PM - 1 Like   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by reh321 Quote
I purchased my KP in 11-2018, but PF's "shutter count tool"
Check Camera Shutter Count and Manufacture Date
says it was built a complete year earlier.

Did you happen to record the "built date" also?
I was thinking it might have come from old stock; we received many "Dark Image Syndrome" reports at one time, but they seem to have tailed off now.
Shutter Count 3,309
Manufacture Date 2017:11:07

Nothing to be proud of, Pentax, but at least it cost me less than $80 including the new solenoid and the screwdriver to get it going. Thanks again to photogem !!!
05-02-2021, 07:42 PM   #22
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Interesting...after I replaced the solenoid, my lenses are now overexposing by 3 stops. This didn't happen before the solenoid went bad...
What are your suggestions?

05-03-2021, 12:19 AM   #23
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First do a complete reset and try again.
Usually this will solve it.

Tthen check again.
If it continues, up-load photos with EXIF-Data.

I was not able to answer for a week, so here some additionals:

Your shuttercount proves again:

- Low shutter count
+
- not used for a while ......
is often one of the reasons why ABF happens.

The "left-over" plastic washer belongs to the microphone-socket.

I cannot alter the tutorial anymore in this section, but we had this problem plus another washer with the K-S2 which is almost identical for the repair, see HERE on page-2 of the K-S2 tutorial
05-03-2021, 06:26 AM   #24
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The first one is manual mode.
Second is in auto. The auto mode image is more accurate. Manual mode image is overexposed.
Attached Images
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K-70  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K-70  Photo     
05-03-2021, 06:41 AM   #25
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Those are essentially the same exposure. One has the aperture 1+1/3 stops wider, but it also has the shutter speed 1+1/3 stops faster.
05-03-2021, 11:34 PM   #26
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@DMITRY1id you do a reset?
And then try in Av and Tv modes
05-03-2021, 11:55 PM - 1 Like   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by DMITRY1 Quote
The first one is manual mode.
Second is in auto.
?

There are not three stops difference between the two, Dmitry!
05-04-2021, 05:17 AM   #28
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I take a lot of photos with studio lighting in manual mode, using soft boxes for illumination.
The first one is in M-mode. The EV bar scale was zero'ed, but the image is noticeably overexposed.
The second one is in AUTO-mode. Other than the White Balance, the exposure is correct.

I did the reset prior to taking these frames.
Attached Images
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K-70  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K-70  Photo 
05-04-2021, 06:21 PM   #29
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Again, Dmitry, these are two photos with entirely different settings, and they are not three stops apart.
05-04-2021, 07:58 PM   #30
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Take a photo in auto. Change to manual and dial in those settings including ISO and take a photo of the same subject.
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